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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last summer I decided to run a 5w30 instead of the usual 5w20/0w20. I used 4.5 qt of Supertech Full Synthetic High Mileage and a Supertech ST9688 filter ($19 total oil change!). Car ran great and it barely burned a drop. For fall/winter I went back with 5w20. Sent used sample to WIX labs and the results were very good...

disclaimer run 5w30 at your own risk. 3rd gen Odyssey's require 5w20 or 0w20 as per Honda recommendation.

Also, here is the Supertech ST9688 filter cut open

161393
 

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Thanks....but I'm not sure what your point or conclusion is here.

The lab report is perhaps interesting, but the issue with running the wrong viscosity oil is not issues with the oil itself, but rather engine damage that the wrong viscosity oil might cause. No lab report is going to tell you that.

There is nothing wrong with running 5W-30 oil, and it likely will not cause any engine damage, but I choose to stick with the specified 5W-20 oil year round.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks....but I'm not sure what your point or conclusion is here.

The lab report is perhaps interesting, but the issue with running the wrong viscosity oil is not issues with the oil itself, but rather engine damage that the wrong viscosity oil might cause. No lab report is going to tell you that.

There is nothing wrong with running 5W-30 oil, and it likely will not cause any engine damage, but I choose to stick with the specified 5W-20 oil year round.
No point or conclusion. Just sharing an oil analysis report.

If you had engine damage occurring from using 5w30, you'd see increased wear metals in the report. Wear metals in this report were near perfect and were all single digit PPM.
 

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If you had engine damage occurring from using 5w30, you'd see increased wear metals in the report. Wear metals in this report were near perfect and were all single digit PPM.
There are other types of damage and engine issues that could occur with using the wrong oil that does not generate metals or other contaminants. For example, the flow through the intricate passages and screens of the VTEC spool valve. Again, I don't think anything bad would happen with 5W-30 oil. It's the Honda spec oil in Europe. Same engine.
 

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I am pretty sure that 5/20 or 0/20 were introduced to achieve maximum fuel economy, rather than due to any particular concern to how engine wears. I have been using 5/30 for as long as I have been changing my own oil.
 

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No
I am pretty sure that 5/20 or 0/20 were introduced to achieve maximum fuel economy, rather than due to any particular concern to how engine wears. I have been using 5/30 for as long as I have been changing my own oil.
No issue or concern with your use of 5W-30, but I can’t help but wonder why you wouldn’t use the oil that is specified for your engine? It costs the same.
 

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No

No issue or concern with your use of 5W-30, but I can’t help but wonder why you wouldn’t use the oil that is specified for your engine? It costs the same.
5/20 is not always available in the nearby Walmart. Also, I "convinced" myself that with 5/30 it does not burn as much oil as before. Since I got the van in 2013 I went to the dealer for oil changes. Price was low, plus free coffee and free basic diagnostics. Then, once it started to burn oil (even the idiot light came up) I was so mad at the dealership (presumably they missed to notice progressively low oil levels). Since then changing oil myself. Decided that a bit of higher viscosity oil is good as far as leaks are concerned (including leaking at the piston rings leadig to burning oil). I believe I burn less oil when before.
 

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I always use Walmart Super Tech 5-20 High miilage oil and the cheapest filter they stock usually Fram or Supertech on the old girl an 06 Ody EXL with 285,000 + miles on her. I change the oil every 3 to 3.5 K miles. In between changes due to many age related leaks I top it off with 5-30 , about .5 quart every 1000 miles. Supertech is packaged by Warren Oil which makes many of the top branded oils .
 

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5/20 is not always available in the nearby Walmart. Also, I "convinced" myself that with 5/30 it does not burn as much oil as before. Since I got the van in 2013 I went to the dealer for oil changes. Price was low, plus free coffee and free basic diagnostics. Then, once it started to burn oil (even the idiot light came up) I was so mad at the dealership (presumably they missed to notice progressively low oil levels). Since then changing oil myself. Decided that a bit of higher viscosity oil is good as far as leaks are concerned (including leaking at the piston rings leadig to burning oil). I believe I burn less oil when before.
Regarding oil burning, if you have the EX-L or Touring model I assume you know about the oil burning issues (and other major engine damage) caused by VCM and the need to disable the VCM function with a simple "muzzler" device.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Even with muzzler, I still burn 1/2 qt to 1qt over 6K miles with 5w20. 5w30 last summer MAYBE burned 1/4 qt if that. I'm not super concerned over half quart burned over an OCI but that report above has sold me on 5w30 at least over the warmer months. I may even send in my current oil (Valvoline 5w20 High Mileage) to see how it did over the same amount of mileage.
 

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Regarding oil burning, if you have the EX-L or Touring model I assume you know about the oil burning issues (and other major engine damage) caused by VCM and the need to disable the VCM funcion with a simple "muzzler" device.
Yeah. I don't know why I managed to overlook the muzzler thing on this forum when I signed up.... So, once I got p0420 a few years ago, and shelled out $1.2K on new cat converter, I was told about disabling VCM. I disabled it by splicing 83 Ohm resistor into temperature sensor circuit. But, by that time the damage was already done. The van has been burning oil for the last 100K miles. With 5/30 I am adding about a quart between oil changes.
 
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