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Hello all,

I have a 2000 Odyssey that is just ready to turn 232,000 miles. This car has been one of the best I've ever owned and still runs strong and has always run cool, with the temperature gauge showing about 4 on a scale of 1-10.
Yesterday after making a short run, I noticed the A/C fluctuating a bit and did not think to check the temperature gauge at first but after a few minutes I did and saw it at about 7 on the same scale.

I was just pulling into my garage so killed the A/C and shut the engine off and let things cool down.

After 2 hours I checked the overflow reservoir and it was empty yet there were only a few spots of coolant on the garage floor. I checked the hoses and all seems good. I saw some coolant on the drivers side fan blades (these fans were replaced by my mechanic about a year ago). I topped off the reservoir with 50/50 coolant and managed to drive back to another destination of about 18 miles. The temperature gauge pretty much stayed around the 5 mark but occasionally went to 7 and then back to 4. This fluctuation seems odd.

I'm suspecting it may be the water pump finally failing as I opted not to replace it with the timing belt change at about 131,000 and at this stage I am due for the second timing belt change. Also visually seems there could be a leak in the upper section of the radiator in front of that drivers side fan. Sticking thermostat perhaps? But then why the leakage?

I have had the coolant serviced regularly over the years. Any opinions on what may be the issue?

Thanks in advance and I will continue to scour the forum.

Bob Seitz
 

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Sounds like the radiator is leaking. They usually last 10 to 15 years, so yours is well due.

A leaking water pump would drip coolant down the right side of the engine.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like the radiator is leaking. They usually last 10 to 15 years, so yours is well due.

A leaking water pump would drip coolant down the right side of the engine.

Dave
Thanks Dave,

I agree, this makes sense. I just spoke to the independent mechanic I have used for the Odyssey repairs and he quoted about $484 for the whole job. Said it's more labor than parts and I can see that it is quite buried!

Bob
 

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Recommend the Denso radiator for the quality reputation. Also, I believe it's OEM. About $75 from RockAuto.

I would change the thermostat too, since the coolant will be drained. Not saying that it's involved in this issue, but they do lose accuracy as they age. Recommend Honda for this part, which comes with a new o-ring.

Last thing, recommend Honda Type 2 premixed coolant.

Dave
 

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Sure, pressure test is a good place to start.

If replacing the radiator, in addition to the thermostat, the upper and lower radiator hoses have similar lifetimes (as the radiator). The original Honda spring hose clamps on there may be better than worm-drive hose clamps you'd find to replace them with. And it would be a good opportunity to replace the ATF cooler lines that run from the AT to the ATF cooler built into the bottom of the radiator.

My understanding of water pump failures is that when they fail, they leak (at first at least). But they still pump, unless there is a blockage somewhere else in the system. So if the water pump itself is not leaking, it's not likely that it's the cause of your overheating.

For this short period of time while you're debugging and maybe planning repairs, unless it gets down to freezing temperatures wherever you are right now, topping up with water will not damage anything. Then once everything is good and there are no leaks, you can do a full drain and refill with 50/50.

I don't know details, but the temperature gauge is not linear. So there might be a lot of temperature variation that still gets mapped in between 4 and 5 (your description). And then once it gets past that and goes to 7, it might be a lot hotter, not just a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Recommend the Denso radiator for the quality reputation. Also, I believe it's OEM. About $75 from RockAuto.

I would change the thermostat too, since the coolant will be drained. Not saying that it's involved in this issue, but they do lose accuracy as they age. Recommend Honda for this part, which comes with a new o-ring.

Last thing, recommend Honda Type 2 premixed coolant.

Dave
Thanks Dave,

I totally agree.

Bob
 

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Put on a new radiator cap and see if it helps the problem. Quick, low oost and easy.
If it doesn't, you will probably be replacing the radiator anyways and then you can put the new cap on it.
Sometimes just doing a pressure test does not find the leak in the radiator (usually the core and tank joint) etc because the coolant temp at that time is not HOT so the metal isn't expanded the same.
Denso and Koyo are both great on the Honda Odyssey.
If you do replace the radiator, a new radiator cap, thermostat, and upper and lower radiator hoses are a damn smart buy beside doing a coolant flush.
Is the coolant reservoir still getting empty?
Buffalo4
PS: if you do replace the timing belt do the water pump also at that time esp since you skipped it last time.
PPS: Watch the vid that FullTruthSeeker posted in reply #5. I did mine and it wasn't as easy as I thought. I could do it a LOT quicker the second time, if I had to. :eek: :)
 

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Put on a new radiator cap and see if it helps the problem. Quick, low oost and easy.
If it doesn't, you will probably be replacing the radiator anyways and then you can put the new cap on it.
Sometimes just doing a pressure test does not find the leak in the radiator (usually the core and tank joint) etc because the coolant temp at that time is not HOT so the metal isn't expanded the same.
Denso and Koyo are both great on the Honda Odyssey.
If you do replace the radiator, a new radiator cap, thermostat, and upper and lower radiator hoses are a damn smart buy beside doing a coolant flush.
Is the coolant reservoir still getting empty?
Buffalo4
PS: if you do replace the timing belt do the water pump also at that time esp since you skipped it last time.
PPS: Watch the vid that FullTruthSeeker posted in reply #5. I did mine and it wasn't as easy as I thought. I could do it a LOT quicker the second time, if I had to. :eek: :)
Thanks Buffalo!

I only drove it home from where I was the other night. After topping off the reservoir it has seemed to retain.
My mechanic also suggested the Denso. Damn, it's a lot of labor :(

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sure, pressure test is a good place to start.

If replacing the radiator, in addition to the thermostat, the upper and lower radiator hoses have similar lifetimes (as the radiator). The original Honda spring hose clamps on there may be better than worm-drive hose clamps you'd find to replace them with. And it would be a good opportunity to replace the ATF cooler lines that run from the AT to the ATF cooler built into the bottom of the radiator.

My understanding of water pump failures is that when they fail, they leak (at first at least). But they still pump, unless there is a blockage somewhere else in the system. So if the water pump itself is not leaking, it's not likely that it's the cause of your overheating.

For this short period of time while you're debugging and maybe planning repairs, unless it gets down to freezing temperatures wherever you are right now, topping up with water will not damage anything. Then once everything is good and there are no leaks, you can do a full drain and refill with 50/50.

I don't know details, but the temperature gauge is not linear. So there might be a lot of temperature variation that still gets mapped in between 4 and 5 (your description). And then once it gets past that and goes to 7, it might be a lot hotter, not just a little.
Thanks for the insights! I agree about the temp gauge.

Bob
 

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Thanks for the insights! I agree about the temp gauge.

Bob
Although, after I got home from driving about 18 miles, the engine / hood did not seem very hot at all. I am in the Ft Myers area of SW Florida so not much freezing here. :)

Bob
 

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Although, after I got home from driving about 18 miles, the engine / hood did not seem very hot at all. I am in the Ft Myers area of SW Florida so not much freezing here. :)

Bob
Buy yourself a quality or OEM radiator cap and put it on when coolant is cool.
At that age, you are just doing a little preventive maintenance by doing that.
Buffalo4
PS: I had an overflowing reservoir due to the radiator cap not allowing coolant to flow from the reservoir back into the radiator. I discovered that when I noticed that the upper radiator hose was collapsed when I looked at it in the morning before I started the engine. :eek:

Wash off the upper radiator fins, both in the front and the back, with a hose and then you might be able to see where the leak is,or, if it is actually leaking.
 

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Recommend the Denso radiator for the quality reputation. Also, I believe it's OEM. About $75 from RockAuto.

I would change the thermostat too, since the coolant will be drained. Not saying that it's involved in this issue, but they do lose accuracy as they age. Recommend Honda for this part, which comes with a new o-ring.

Last thing, recommend Honda Type 2 premixed coolant.

Dave
Thanks Dave.
 

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Buy yourself a quality or OEM radiator cap and put it on when coolant is cool.
At that age, you are just doing a little preventive maintenance by doing that.
Buffalo4
PS: I had an overflowing reservoir due to the radiator cap not allowing coolant to flow from the reservoir back into the radiator. I discovered that when I noticed that the upper radiator hose was collapsed when I looked at it in the morning before I started the engine. :eek:

Wash off the upper radiator fins, both in the front and the back, with a hose and then you might be able to see where the leak is,or, if it is actually leaking.
Thanks Buffalo4! All great suggestions!
Bob
 

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Has anyone replaced their radiator with a bigger one (aftermarket aluminum) I'm thinking of doing it but not sure if it be a good idea with these Van's sense they tend to be so sensitive. I did it to my 93 Subaru sedan a few yrs back and haven't had the issues I did before with over heating and water pump replacements.
 

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Just for the record, I NEVER had any overheating issues whatsoever in 232K miles. The Odyssey always ran cool even when towing my Wells Cargo 5x8 trailer. So, for me, putting in a larger radiator is not the issue I just need to repair whatever went wrong. Interesting idea though and I sure could have used a larger radiator on my 2001 Dodge van that seemingly always ran hot!
Bob
 

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Has anyone replaced their radiator with a bigger one (aftermarket aluminum) I'm thinking of doing it but not sure if it be a good idea with these Van's sense they tend to be so sensitive. I did it to my 93 Subaru sedan a few yrs back and haven't had the issues I did before with over heating and water pump replacements.
Are you experiencing high coolant temps or ?
If you ever do replace the radiator with another one (not a bigger one or dual core) I would sure suggest a Denso or Koyo. I bought a low cost one off ebay and it doesn't cool as well as the original, but it did fit well. Hard enough to change so a high quality one for $20 more is SUPER thing to do.
Most problems with a radiator not cooling well enough in a first-second gen Ody is usually due to deposits in the radiator, faulty thermostat,water pump, clogged up fins, reduced air flow to the fins, bad timing due to timing belt wear,radiator fans not working at full speed, only one radiator fan working, low coolant level, old collapsed radiator hoses,clogged condenser fins, etc.
BTW, what yr is your Ody? Sometimes it helps to know the yr when responding to a post.
Buffalo4
 

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Its 03, I'm not experiencing any issues yet knock on wood. I was just wondering if anyone done it. Figured it may help more with bigger radiator for longer life on water pump and any other parts to it. She's been a good van and I'm just looking to upgrade in any good way I can.
 

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Hello all,

I have a 2000 Odyssey that is just ready to turn 232,000 miles. This car has been one of the best I've ever owned and still runs strong and has always run cool, with the temperature gauge showing about 4 on a scale of 1-10.
Yesterday after making a short run, I noticed the A/C fluctuating a bit and did not think to check the temperature gauge at first but after a few minutes I did and saw it at about 7 on the same scale.

I was just pulling into my garage so killed the A/C and shut the engine off and let things cool down.

After 2 hours I checked the overflow reservoir and it was empty yet there were only a few spots of coolant on the garage floor. I checked the hoses and all seems good. I saw some coolant on the drivers side fan blades (these fans were replaced by my mechanic about a year ago). I topped off the reservoir with 50/50 coolant and managed to drive back to another destination of about 18 miles. The temperature gauge pretty much stayed around the 5 mark but occasionally went to 7 and then back to 4. This fluctuation seems odd.

I'm suspecting it may be the water pump finally failing as I opted not to replace it with the timing belt change at about 131,000 and at this stage I am due for the second timing belt change. Also visually seems there could be a leak in the upper section of the radiator in front of that drivers side fan. Sticking thermostat perhaps? But then why the leakage?

I have had the coolant serviced regularly over the years. Any opinions on what may be the issue?

Thanks in advance and I will continue to scour the forum.

Bob Seitz
Hello all,

I have a 2000 Odyssey that is just ready to turn 232,000 miles. This car has been one of the best I've ever owned and still runs strong and has always run cool, with the temperature gauge showing about 4 on a scale of 1-10.
Yesterday after making a short run, I noticed the A/C fluctuating a bit and did not think to check the temperature gauge at first but after a few minutes I did and saw it at about 7 on the same scale.

I was just pulling into my garage so killed the A/C and shut the engine off and let things cool down.

After 2 hours I checked the overflow reservoir and it was empty yet there were only a few spots of coolant on the garage floor. I checked the hoses and all seems good. I saw some coolant on the drivers side fan blades (these fans were replaced by my mechanic about a year ago). I topped off the reservoir with 50/50 coolant and managed to drive back to another destination of about 18 miles. The temperature gauge pretty much stayed around the 5 mark but occasionally went to 7 and then back to 4. This fluctuation seems odd.

I'm suspecting it may be the water pump finally failing as I opted not to replace it with the timing belt change at about 131,000 and at this stage I am due for the second timing belt change. Also visually seems there could be a leak in the upper section of the radiator in front of that drivers side fan. Sticking thermostat perhaps? But then why the leakage?

I have had the coolant serviced regularly over the years. Any opinions on what may be the issue?

Thanks in advance and I will continue to scour the forum.

Bob Seitz
often, if the radiator is not leaking ("no trace of water on the floor") it is the minute warpage on the plastic radiator top or bottom cover that leads to loss of coolant.
Honest radiator serviceman (or woman if there is) would just recommend replacing the plastic part.
 
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