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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried to install new rear shoes and drums on our 2001 EX today. I followed the procedure from the Honda FSM. Everything went pretty well until I tried to put the new drums on with the new shoes.

I couldn't get the new drum on no matter what I tried. I had the emergency brake adjuster screwed down so that the shoes could be pushed in as far as the brake cylinders would allow them to be pushed. If felt like the two cylinders were pushed in to their limits. I couldn't figure out a way to get the shoes compressed far enough to allow the drum to go on over them.

I ended up putting the old shoes back on and installing the new drum. The old shoes had a little over 1/8" of braking material left, so I have a little time left on them. Anybody have any ideas or thoughts on this?

I bought the drums online from Majestic and the shoes from a local Honda dealer. The new drums and shoes looked exactly like the old ones. What could have caused this problem?
 

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Did you close up the adjuster near the bottom of the shoes? It spreads out as the shoes wear so as to keep them close to the drums. The adjuster is number 19 on the picture and sometimes needs to be replaced or at least cleaned/lubed so it will spin in freely. Sometimes it helps to hit the pad side of the shoes with the palm of your hand to seat everything before putting the drum on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you close up the adjuster near the bottom of the shoes? It spreads out as the shoes wear so as to keep them close to the drums. The adjuster is number 19 on the picture and sometimes needs to be replaced or at least cleaned/lubed so it will spin in freely. Sometimes it helps to hit the pad side of the shoes with the palm of your hand to seat everything before putting the drum on.
Yes, I did. That's the adjuster for the emergency brake. I had it turned down to where it didn't touch the shoe on one end. The new shoes still wouldn't compress enough to get the new drum over them.
 

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Yes, I did. That's the adjuster for the emergency brake. I had it turned down to where it didn't touch the shoe on one end. The new shoes still wouldn't compress enough to get the new drum over them.
It's not just for the e-brake. It adjusts itself out as the shoes wear so as to make sure when you touch the brakes the shoe doesn't have to travel much to hit the drum. You have to tighten it all the way in, make sure the shoes are seated all the way, put the drum on and then adjust this piece out until the shoe just touches the drum. You will have uneven braking if this is not adjusted correctly. It is possible that you have the wrong shoes, compare them to the old ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's not just for the e-brake. It adjusts itself out as the shoes wear so as to make sure when you touch the brakes the shoe doesn't have to travel much to hit the drum. You have to tighten it all the way in, make sure the shoes are seated all the way, put the drum on and then adjust this piece out until the shoe just touches the drum. You will have uneven braking if this is not adjusted correctly. It is possible that you have the wrong shoes, compare them to the old ones.
I had the adjuster screwed down far enough that it was loose between the two shoes, and I couldn't push the shoes in any farther. They were tight against the pivot point at the bottom, and I couldn't push the cylinders in any farther at the top.

While following the FSM instructions, I did manage to get one of the cylinders slid way in and end up with some fluid inside the boot. This appears to be OK and normal per the FMS. I dried it up the best I could. When I push the cylinders in toward each other, they seem to come to a stop against one another, so I don't think there's any kind of obstruction.

I didn't measure them, but the new shoes appeared the same as the old ones when laid down side-by-side. I guess I'll have to do a more thorough comparison.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was able to get everything put together on the 2nd try. With new drums and shoes, the shoes have to be in just the right spot to allow the drum to slide over them and on to the hub. Even then, it's quite snug. I ended up measuring from the edge of the hub to the outer surface of the shoes and moved them around until the measurements were close to the same. Even then, I had to do a little wiggling of the drum as I slid it on to get the shoes in just the right spot.

The sequence that Eric the Car Guy uses in the video is far superior to the sequence in the Honda FSM. The FSM has you take the retaining pins out first and then fight with the springs while the shoes are slipping around everywhere. It's much easier when you leave the retaining pins until last. That way the shoes are held somewhat in place while you take all the springs loose. When installing the new shoes, the retaining pins again will hold the shoes basically in place while you put in the adjuster and springs. If you have the adjuster screwed down all the way and get just the right angle, it will go in with the shoes already in place.

I greased all the spots indicated in the TSB and FSM. That along with new rotors and pads in the front, and we're back to quiet brakes. Mrs Kknh3 is happy with the brakes, but just called to say that the check engine light just came on again. We've been getting the P0402 catalytic convertor code off and on lately. I'll have to stop by Autozone tomorrow to see if it's that one again.
 

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Did you mean code P0420 or P0401,no P0402 listed for 2nd gen Ody. Po420 is converter but P0401 is clogged EGR ports or egr valve.
 
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