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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to replace my OEM catalytic converter with a Walker 16457 Ultra EX direct fit converter. I've given all of the fasteners a good shot of PB Blaster and will hit them again before the weekend comes. Hopefully, I won't break or need to cut any of the bolts. If I do cut or break one or more of the bolts, is it absolutely necessary to use identical bolts or will a different bolt/washer/nut combination suffice? I assume all the bolts need to do is pull the joint together. The replacement bolts from Honda are quite pricey. If I were to go to a hardware store to procure replacement bolts for this purpose, what specs would I want?
 

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Wait!!!!!!!! before you buy you need to past a test or its just because you got P0420 code ?? which mean bad catalytic converter ??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wait!!!!!!!! before you buy you need to past a test or its just because you got P0420 code ?? which mean bad catalytic converter ??
I've been having recurring P0420 codes for the past couple years. I've done the EGR cleaning and replaced the PCV valve. The values coming from the O2 sensors look normal when I monitor them. I've already ordered the replacement catalytic converter. I just don't want to pay $8.00 each for bolts unless I have to do so. Hopefully, I can reuse the existing ones, but wanted to be able to spec something appropriate in case I break or have to cut them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If I recall correctly from reading other catalytic converter threads, there's some question about the legality of using the non-foulers. Is this correct?
 

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By using the non-foulers, aren't you messing with the overall control of the engine as well? Basically, you're pulling the O2 sensor out of the stream so that it will give a false reading and not trigger the CEL and P0420. I wouldn't think this would be good for the engine since the ECM will make some type of compensation for the false reading. I haven't dug into this enough to be able to accurately state what the effect would be, but it seems to me that faking out the O2 sensor isn't the best idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the advice. I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the catalytic converter. With a $40 Walker rebate and the converter's scrap value, I can do it fairly economically.

Now back to my original question. Does anyone have any advice on the catalytic converter bolt/washer/nut specifications other than buying the expensive ones from the dealer or online Honda parts places?
 

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Bolts from a hardware store would probably be only low grade steel. Those may be suitable for rigging a child's swing but not for automotive applications. Go to a place that specializes in fasteners and get grade 8 hardware. I don't know for sure, but this is probably what is on the van now. They aren't cheap, but will probably be half what Honda wants.
 

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the downstream has nothing to do with the mix of gas ... downstream just read the performance of the CAT . NOW the upstream O2 sensor deals with the mix of gas. weather to lean or rich. does the police go under your car an see if you have done anything to ur CAT ??
 

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With non-OEM catalytic converter, your P0420 will come back between 90-180 days. Do remember to make a post here after that time so that I can add another data point to my running statistics.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
With non-OEM catalytic converter, your P0420 will come back between 90-180 days. Do remember to make a post here after that time so that I can add another data point to my running statistics.
Are you guaranteeing this for every non-OEM cat regardless of manufacturer, price, spec, etc.? Do you have any feedback specific to this particular model?
 

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I like stainless steel hardware. It can be taken apart in the future.
 

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By using the non-foulers, aren't you messing with the overall control of the engine as well? Basically, you're pulling the O2 sensor out of the stream so that it will give a false reading and not trigger the CEL and P0420. I wouldn't think this would be good for the engine since the ECM will make some type of compensation for the false reading. I haven't dug into this enough to be able to accurately state what the effect would be, but it seems to me that faking out the O2 sensor isn't the best idea.
The secondary O2 sensor has nothing to do with the engine controls. Its only purpose is to monitor the performance of the catalytic converter.

I have no issues with using the non-fouler as it changes NOTHING with regards to the actual emissions that your vehicle is putting out. The fact is, in 99 of 100 cases, if they actually bothered to sniff the tailpipe with the P0420 code present, the vehicle would easily still pass the emissions test. But since OBD II, if you have an active code, you fail emissions, period, regardless of what the ACTUAL emissions are from the tailpipe. The gov't trusts the on-board computer to determine if everything is OK, rather than actually checking (at least in my state). And Honda has set the bar in their check algorithms very low so just a very tiny decrease in converter performance will set this code.
 

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Are you guaranteeing this for every non-OEM cat regardless of manufacturer, price, spec, etc.? Do you have any feedback specific to this particular model?
OEM converter will run you close to 4 figures. Most aftermarkets are quarter of that price. The reason there is so much difference is because of the actual material inside the converter.

You can either make use of the collective wisdom of this forum (and other similar resources) or take the plunge on an aftermarket and come to your own conclusion.

Do come back here after six months or an year either to gloat or to eat the crow.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OEM converter will run you close to 4 figures. Most aftermarkets are quarter of that price. The reason there is so much difference is because of the actual material inside the converter.

You can either make use of the collective wisdom of this forum (and other similar resources) or take the plunge on an aftermarket and come to your own conclusion.

Do come back here after six months or an year either to gloat or to eat the crow.
Well, I don't think I or anyone else on this forum should either gloat or have to eat crow based upon decisions we make. I come to a place like this to get advice. Obviously, this advice is based upon the experiences of those who participate in these forums. The fact that I may or may not take the advice given has no reflection upon whether or not I think the advice is valid or valuable.

In this particular case, I agree that the OEM converter is probably the safest, most dependable way to go. However, as has been noted many times on this forum, it does come with a significantly higher price tag than other non-OEM options. Due to the fact that I'm driving a 2001 Odyssey with more than 180K miles that still has its original transmission, I'm sensitive to the potential repair costs that could be looming in my future. I'm balancing this with the P0420/catalytic converter issue and sort of hedging my bets a little.

I will report back on my results. However, it will not be for the purpose of gloating or eating crow, no matter how it turns out.

But again I ask if anyone has direct experience with Walker catalytic converters, specifically the model 16457 Ultra EX, and their application on the Odyssey.
 

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I just cleared the same code by installing a walker direct fit from advance auto a month ago. All clear still. 2000 ex w 225k.

Needed cut off tool for rusted OEM flange fasteners.

Got 6 new bolts and lock nuts from hardware store. New gaskets and was good to go. The O2 sensor needed no modification and reached the new cat's sensor port easily.

Been looking at the CEL for yrs. so glad it's gone.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com App
 
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