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Here's a post from another thread that might be useful if you want to rebuild your alternator.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/150768-how-long-does-alternator-last-3.html#post2014658

That post links to the following thread, which discusses alternator replacement in general, including removal, etc.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/163321-alternator-replacement-2.html

BTW, the in-site search functionality has not seemed to work for me for a while, so I just go to the google and search for things like: odyclub.com alternator bearings brushes
The presence of a domain in that search means the google will search for the other words on that site.
 

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Quick Question:

I'm in the process of removing the Alternator. Last night, I was reading 12.2 v with the car running, so I was assuming it was the Alternator. How do you check the output of the alternator? I thought it was the big bult under the boot was positive. And I read 12.x v with my volt meter. But if that isn't the positive side I wasn't really reading the Alternators output?

If it is a fuse, where would I look to check the fuse for the alternator.

Thanks for all the info!

Dan
 

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Quick Question:

I'm in the process of removing the Alternator. Last night, I was reading 12.2 v with the car running, so I was assuming it was the Alternator. How do you check the output of the alternator? I thought it was the big bult under the boot was positive. And I read 12.x v with my volt meter. But if that isn't the positive side I wasn't really reading the Alternators output?

If it is a fuse, where would I look to check the fuse for the alternator.

Thanks for all the info!

Dan
With the car running the big bolt under the boot should be 12.6 or higher, preferably around 13.5-14 volts. If you're reading less than 12.6 then the alternator is putting out nothing. To 100% confirm the alternator you need to check all the other wiring going to the alternator and make sure the computer is commanding output. Most likely it's a bad alternator.

One word of caution, you can destroy a new/rebuilt alternator by installing and trying to charge a dead battery. Make sure you charge the battery before starting the engine with the replacement alternator. Also, stay away from the parts store reman alternators. Get yourself a Denso reman from wherever you can source it.
 

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Quick Tips

Thanks John for you fast reply.

One video said the big bolt was ground. Which didn't make sense to me. I was able to remove and install a new alternator. Pepboys tested my alternator and said it failed. I don't always trust these auto part places.

A couple quick tips I learned on this 2002.

The electrical connector was hard to release. I waited until the alternator was free and I had it tilted with the connector upwards. Made access and pulling much easier. Same thing for the large bolt. There is too much instruction to get a socket in there. I removed it while the back was facing up.

I did not have anything to release the belt. I fists mostly removed the small alternator bolt at top, then slowly released the larger 14mm bolt behind the idler. I did not remove the idler. I started with a ratcheting wrench, but the it would get trapped. So I would remove that and use a regular wrench (thinner) to finish the job. At this point the belt was loose. The trick with removing the 14mm bolt is to wiggle the alternator upwards a bit until the bolt can clear the idler.

Then as I saw in some videos. rotate it with the back side coming out first. I did not remove or move the Window washer tank. Just the power steering and coolant. I didn't even need to remove the power steering bracket. It was in the way, but at that stage you are moving upwards.

As someone else mentioned. Much easier putting it in than taking it out. As mentioned above. Do yourself a favor and attach the connector and cable while the alternator is loose and back facing up. Much easier to wrench.

I'm now trying to get ther serpentine belt back on. I "loaned" a Serpentine belt tool from Pepboys, but I don't think it has 19mm? so back to the drawing board.

Thanks for all the great info here!

Dan
 

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Nice post, danRetna.
Thanks,
I might have to replace the one on my '03 in the near future.
Buffalo4
PS:All little and big hints help a LOT!!!! :ahh:
PPS: Are you also instalingl a new Alternator belt? :eek:
 

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Weird thing. I had to go from thee wheel well with a 19mm wrench and a 17mm hooked as lever. I'm on my back under the car. I'm not that strong, but I heard a thump. The idler stayed in the relaxed position. I thought I broke something. after fiddling with the belts making sure they were aligned. I went back under the car, and was able to get it to snap back. Tensioned? I did a test drive and I was getting 14.2V running.
 

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Follow Up Question:

So, Alternator replacement successful. But i'd like to verify if I have a fault. Battery was 2 weeks old before the alternator died. So its voltage was low. Charged it overnight to 12.25v. After installing Alternator, with car running, I read 14.2v at battery terminal so I see the alternator is charging.

Day 2, I checked battery while off, and I read 12.9v, so the alternator had indeed charged the battery. But when on, I read maybe 13.6 or 13.8v? So does the alternator reduce voltage when the battery is full? Or may I have a faulty alternator or some other issue? Just checking.

Problem 2) This is my Grandmothers Van so I'm not super familar with it. But the CHARGE/Battery light and the BRAKE/4 door open light go on primarily at the same time and off. Could be for a few seconds or a couple minutes while driving. I asked her and I believe she said she saw the lights prior to the alternator replacement, so I don't think it is something I did. I briefly read this is a fault caused by ripple in the electrical? Is this dangerous?

Thanks again for all the great tips.

Dan
 

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Yes, the alternator will reduce the voltage when a battery is fully charged and without a good load on it like the headlights, etc. Sometimes mine will drop down into the mid 12 volt range, but by turning the fan to a higher speed or turning on the headlights, etc, it will immediately go back up.
Problem 2 sounds like it could be a bad ground. Check the grounding connection from the bat (-) terminal to the frame that the radiator is mounted on and also the connections from the grounding strap (the one with the bare wire showing that is used when jump starting) that goes from that same frame and down to the engine, only closer to the radiator itself.
It could also be a faulty alternator, even though you just installed one.
Hopefully you will get some better answers to your second Problem.
Buffalo4
 

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Follow Up Question:

So, Alternator replacement successful. But i'd like to verify if I have a fault. Battery was 2 weeks old before the alternator died. So its voltage was low. Charged it overnight to 12.25v. After installing Alternator, with car running, I read 14.2v at battery terminal so I see the alternator is charging.

Day 2, I checked battery while off, and I read 12.9v, so the alternator had indeed charged the battery. But when on, I read maybe 13.6 or 13.8v? So does the alternator reduce voltage when the battery is full? Or may I have a faulty alternator or some other issue? Just checking.
As Buffalo4 mentioned the system will reduce alternator output when the output is not needed. The way to check the health of your alternator is to start the engine and run all the loads you can...headlights on high beam, radio, rear defroster, both AC's on high, wipers, everything. If you still have 13 volts with all that on then your alternator is fine.

Problem 2) This is my Grandmothers Van so I'm not super familar with it. But the CHARGE/Battery light and the BRAKE/4 door open light go on primarily at the same time and off. Could be for a few seconds or a couple minutes while driving. I asked her and I believe she said she saw the lights prior to the alternator replacement, so I don't think it is something I did. I briefly read this is a fault caused by ripple in the electrical? Is this dangerous?

Thanks again for all the great tips.

Dan
Some cars will turn on the brake light whenever the alternator/battery light is on. I've seen this on some manufacturers. It could also be a problem in the gauge cluster or ground to the gauge cluster turning on lights when they shouldn't be on. You'd have to do some testing while it's failed. I'd start with alternator testing just as I described above for problem 1. If output is fine but the charge light is still on then I'd be suspect of some other electrical problem.
 

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Some cars will turn on the brake light whenever the alternator/battery light is on. I've seen this on some manufacturers.
My Nissan Altima did this.

I installed a reman alternator. Soon after installation, it failed; ergo, I had to do the alternator replacement twice, in one month.

Do what John says and buy a Denso replacement. If you shop around, the cost is actually not much more than a remanufactured unit, but with infinitely more reliability and peace-of-mind.

OF
 

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My Nissan Altima did this.

I installed a reman alternator. Soon after installation, it failed; ergo, I had to do the alternator replacement twice, in one month.

Do what John says and buy a Denso replacement. If you shop around, the cost is actually not much more than a remanufactured unit, but with infinitely more reliability and peace-of-mind.

OF
Yeah, now that you mention it, I think that's where I saw that...on my Nissan 200SX when it's alternator went out. He didn't say what kind of van his grandmother has.
 

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Yes, I got these little gems on ebay. They are Cornwell Tools torque adapters, and I purchased both the metric and SAE sets.

They're a little pricey, but they got some use in the past month while I was working on Moby Dick (my bass boat) and a performing a water pump replacement on our 1998 Accord (NPK water pumps suck...always buy OEM Honda).

Like most folks, my "go to" tools are the ratchets, sockets, & extensions. When I can't get a torque wrench and socket into a weird area, these torque adapters usually bail me out. :cool:

Amazingly, this does relate directly to the OP's post: I endured consecutive broken alternator brackets on our 2002 EX until I was able to use one of these adapters to torque it properly. I had to do a little math, since the extension applies more torque than the setting on the wrench (if the extension is not perpendicular to the axis of the wrench, and sticks out past the end of the wrench):

View attachment 104657

OF
I'm surprised to see that "L" is part of the equation. I don't understand why L applies... and I'm interested to learn why. Can you expound upon why L matters?
 

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I'm surprised to see that "L" is part of the equation. I don't understand why L applies... and I'm interested to learn why. Can you expound upon why L matters?
Because that's where the FOOT part of foot-lbs comes from. If you hang one pound from a bar that is one foot long, you have one foot-pound. If you change L, in this case from one foot to two feet, but leave one pound hanging from the bar, you now have 1/2 foot-pound.
 

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Because that's where the FOOT part of foot-lbs comes from. If you hang one pound from a bar that is one foot long, you have one foot-pound. If you change L, in this case from one foot to two feet, but leave one pound hanging from the bar, you now have 1/2 foot-pound.
If that pound is hanging from the end of the 2 ft bar, it will be much more than 1 lb ft and not 1/2 foot-pound --It would be 2lb ft, I believe.
A 1 lb load hanging from a 6 inch handle will exert 1/2 lb ft.

Buffalo4
 

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If that pound is hanging from the end of the 2 ft bar, it will be much more than 1 lb ft and not 1/2 foot-pound --It would be 2lb ft, I believe.
A 1 lb load hanging from a 6 inch handle will exert 1/2 lb ft.

Buffalo4
Yeah, you're right. I got it mixed up.
 

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I'm surprised to see that "L" is part of the equation. I don't understand why L applies... and I'm interested to learn why. Can you expound upon why L matters?
Do you mean, why does L matter when using a torque wrench extension, but it does not matter when using a torque wrench by itself?
 

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Here is a good video tutorial for 1999-2004 Honda Odyssey alternator replccement -

I mostly followed the steps in this video (plus removing the power steering reservoir to create more space). But now I can't get the lower mounting bolt back in. I didn't notice anyone mentioning this problem. I can get the top bolt in, but the idler pulley doesn't allow the lower bolt to clear the "mounting hole".

Any suggestions?
 

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I spent a couple weeks with various problems replacing a 2002 alternator, From your description - I did not see your problem, because I removed the tensioner assembly first and replaced it last.
 

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Do you mean, why does L matter when using a torque wrench extension, but it does not matter when using a torque wrench by itself?
Yes and yes.
  1. Specifically, if I'm using a torque wrench (WITHOUT a torque wrench extension), why does "L" (length) matter? Regardless of the length at which I apply the tightening force, the torque wrench is going to tell me when I've achieved the correct torque. Yes? No?
  2. The same question applies to the use of a torque wrench (WITH a torque wrench extension). I don't see why L matters. The torque wrench is going to tell me when I've achieved the correct torque. Yes? No?
 
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