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There are "mile long threads" on replacement speakers. I've seen alot of praise for the Pioneer 1665, etc. Can someone please summarize the best "bang for the buck" upgrade for speakers for a 2002 EXL NAV?

I also understand that they have upgraded the speaker system. Is this only the rear speakers? Given that the rears are different in 2002, is replacement as necessary? What size is needed?

Any guidance would be much appreciated.

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Future Owner '02 MB EXL NAV
Current Owner '96 R Dodge GC ES
 

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Depends on what you mean by "bang for the buck". If you want no-cut, direct replacement units that screw right into the same holes and everything, the Pioneer 1665s are wonderful. And at $40, you can't beat them. Add $5 for wire harness adapters.

The rears are JUNK. Someone suggested just taking the fronts out and putting them in the rear; I don't know how that sounds, but it seems like a great first step for a drop-in replacement idea. Forty five bucks and a couple of minutes is a GREAT place to start.

You'd probably be very happy if not cutting was important to you. If you want better bass, the Honda subwoofer is pricey but I think is well worth it.

If you don't mind cutting, the sky's the limit. I like the idea of speakers in the rear hatch.
 

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And I'd like to add a similar question: I'm looking at repacing just the fronts with either 1665s or 1695s (1695 are about twice the price). As I understand it, the 1665s will pretty much slip right in the stock hole no problem. How about the 1695s? Are they so deep that they won't fit behind the stock grille? I'm guessing that the 1665s are the best bang for the buck, but also guess the 1695s would be better if they fit easily.

Thanks in advance.

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-= Darell =-
2002 Ody EXL-Nav (TW) ordered, but apparently never coming.
2001 Civic EX
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by adam1991:
And at $40, you can't beat them. </font>
Adam - where did you find them for only $40? Best I've seen is $50 +shipping. Crutchfield wants over $100 for them, natch.




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-= Darell =-
2002 Ody EXL-Nav (TW) ordered, but apparently never coming.
2001 Civic EX
 

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Talk about timing!! I swapped the speakers in my 2002 EX-L today. Went with the 1665s up front, and then moved the fronts to the rear.

I tried a 1665 in the rear first and was not impressed - the cavity just does not lend itself to music! It certainly sounded brighter than the stock rear (almost tinny), but there was no additional base to speak of.

The Pioneers 1665s up front add brightness and definition to the sound and do deliver a *little* more thump in the base.

The blue polypropylene front speakers sound marginally better than the paper-cone rears, and their size and metal casing are identical - making the swap seamless.

I for one am very VERY impressed with the 2002 Ody sound - even before the Pioneers - now I think the sound is excellent for a stock radio.

Next week I will add my subwoofer and I think I will be ecstatic with the end result.
 

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From what I understand; and if anyone out there has experience with both the 1695s w/ no KB bass, and WITH KB base, please pipe in:

If you're looking for a cheap way to upgrade your sound in a major way you can SKIP the Honda subwoofer altogether as the 1695s sound almost as good without it. This came from Toyman I believe a couple of months ago and possibly others.

Personally, with the PS2 (under driver's seat), power-inverter, traveltheater transmitter, Pioneer NTSC-RGB converter box & NAVI DVD player (under passenger seat), I *really* don't want to add a sub-woofer or 6-CD changer to my van. If I can get 90% of the sound of the $200+ subwoofer by upgrading my fronts to 1695s, you can damn well bet that's what I'm going to do.
 

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Marvyn -

Sounds too good to be true....and it really is. With the amount of power (or lack of, more specifically) from the head unit, and a 6.5" cone, you simply are not going to be moving enough air for true bass, or certainly, sub-bass. There will be more mid-bass, I'm sure, and for many that is enough.

Of course, you need to take everything I say about bass with a grain of salt. I have a dual 15" driver, 1200 watt sub in my home theater that is barely sufficient


Yes, it was Toyman's comments about the 1695s that got me to ask my question above. If I remember correctly he talked about some bit of modification necessary to put these in but I can't remember how much, and I can't find his thread.

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-= Darell =-
2002 Ody EXL-Nav (TW) ordered, but apparently never coming.
2001 Civic EX
 

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Actually I am not using a Kelton Base unit.
I have several subs and amps gathering dust in the garage.
I am building a custom sealed box for a single 15" that will receive 250 clean watts from a dedicated amplifier.
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by PD55:
Actually I am not using a Kelton Base unit.
I have several subs and amps gathering dust in the garage.
I am building a custom sealed box for a single 15" that will receive 250 clean watts from a dedicated amplifier.

</font>
Slick! Personally, I find that "dirty" watts are better for subs!




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-= Darell =-
2002 Ody EXL-Nav (TW) ordered, but apparently never coming.
2001 Civic EX
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by adam1991:
http://store.yahoo.com/discountsonline/piontsa1612w.html
</font>

Thanks Adam. I actually looked at the discountsjungle site yesterday, and if you don't follow the Yahoo link, they're $10 more. How slick is that? Ya just gotta love the internet. Of course shipping is over $10, but hey.


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-= Darell =-
2002 Ody EXL-Nav (TW) ordered, but apparently never coming.
2001 Civic EX
 

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Ah....no...wait a sec. The $40 is for the 1655s. The 1665s, which I think is what we're talking about here, are $50 like I saw. Man, so many choices.

So, Adam...which speakers to you have? The 1665s or the 1655s? If you're so happy with the 55s, there may be even more savings in store for ol' Darell.

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-= Darell =-
2002 Ody EXL-Nav (TW) ordered, but apparently never coming.
2001 Civic EX

[This message has been edited by darelldd (edited 09-29-2001).]
 

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Yo... Adam... I'd email you, but alas, you don't have one in your profile...



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-= Darell =-
2002 Ody EXL-Nav (TW) ordered, but apparently never coming.
2001 Civic EX
 

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I put the 1655s up front. Before I did the subwoofer, it seemed like I could be very happy with those.

But you know the story...once I put the Kelton unit in, there's no going back.
 

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I have some Pioneer 1695's on order for my 2002. Are they so deep that I will have to cut the hard plastic OEM rain shield in order to fit them? I looked at Chuck's pics and it looks like he did this and then installed the aftermarket soft baffles, which he then cut to resemble the factory rain shield. Anybody?

I also ordered from Crutchfield a sheet of that Dynamat noise-dampening stuff to stick on the interior of the sheet metal, behind the speakers. I think I can do this thru the speaker hole. Any comments or suggestions?
 

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Yes, you'll have to cut the rain shield. And using a baffle is probably a good idea.

Something else to consider is window travel and its interaction with the speaker and the wiring, although it seems that Chuck didn't have any problems with that.

Were it my car, I'd have put a good set of speakers in without a doubt. (Shoot, were it my car I wouldn't have had RES, but would have put a killer aftermarket unit in instead.) But with RES and this being my wife's car, prudence reigned. I went with the no-cut, easy to restore option.
 

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Sinbad, I've installed the 1695's also and they sound great, but you WILL have to trim the factory rain shields. They cut very easily with a sharp cutter. I also followed Chuck's lead and created some rain shields from foam baffles. Believe it or not, the 4" baffles work better for this purpose. The 6 1/2" baffles are to bulky. You can probably apply a small piece of Dynamat through the speaker hole without removing the door panel, but I went ahead and removed my door panels so I could spray a larger area with Stinger RoadKill acoustical damping spray. If you decide to do this, the door panels remove easily, then you peel back the plastic moisture barrier to gain more access. I used a spray product rather than a peel and stick product because someone at a local installation shop told me that they had some problems with it coming loose from vertical surfaces in hot weather.
http://www.fototime.com/inv/45FCB89B1F5F1EF
 

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Wow, can't believe how fast messages pile up if I don't check over the weekend! All you guys are good!

A couple more pointers:
1) though the 1655/1665 will "drop in" with no cutting of the rain shield, you still have to cut off the alignment tabs that were used on the factory speakers. I fugure if you have the utility knife out anyway, get the speakers you think are the best for you, because the rain shield is VERY easy to cut.

2) I've measured the mounting depth of the front speakers in my '01 EX. You can go up to 2.5" depth safely if you cut the rain shield. Most coaxes will fit, there are only a couple of aftermarket brands deeper than this, and they are much higher end (i.e.- expensive).

3) Use of dynamat/stinger road kill: It's really hard to get any of that stuff on decently without taking off the door panel. If you use sheet stuff, do you wanna apply it over the plastic moisture barrier or on the back side of the outer sheet metal? Pros tend to put it on both surfaces. Putting it on the sheet metal will give you better panel resonance damping. If you use the spray stuff, be sure to mask carefully.

4) bang for the buck - my opinion is the 1695. The horn tweeter is not harsh, and doesn't have the sibilant quality that the 1655/1665 tweeter has. At ~$80, I think its a good deal. This is a very subjective thing since everyone's threshold of quality is different. If you are looking for sub $100 speaks, I think the 95 is the way to go. I have much more expensive speaks in my daily driver, and Bostons in my (wife's) Ody.

5) use of subwoofer with 95s, etc...: well, again, this is a subjective thing. In the '01 and earlier models, the 95s do seem to make alot of difference for bass response. Many are satisfied with just them. My advice to those on the fence is switch front speakers as a first step, then evaluate where you wanna go. Many want better rear sound and go that way next (or do rears with fronts together). If you still feel there's a bass deficiency, look at a sub (the KB or whatever you budget allows!). Next, if you want cleaner and louder sound, switch out the head unit and/or go with outboard amps. Do it this way, and you spend as much as you need to to get the result you want. But for sure, in the Ody and in most factory car stereo upgrades, front speakers are always the first thing to look at for improving sound quality.

-SJ

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DEP '01 EX no-navi

p.s.- one other rule of thumb I do think has alot of truth to it, and I go by... If you wanna spend most of your money on one particular component, spend it on speakers. They more than anything affect sound quality the most. Spend some time researching and esp. listening to speakers; everyone's tastes are a little different, so trust your ears the most! There are alot of knowledgable people on these boards, with very good (and strong) opinions. Use them as guidance, and let your ears make the final call.

[This message has been edited by shinjohn (edited 10-01-2001).]
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by PD55:
Actually I am not using a Kelton Base unit.
I have several subs and amps gathering dust in the garage.
</font>
Me too, bigtime. I finally sold a couple of amps I just had "laying around" and will install the other two in the Ody...

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
I am building a custom sealed box for a single 15" that will receive 250 clean watts from a dedicated amplifier.
</font>
Let us know how this turns out; many of us are interested in different sub configs.

After much debate and thought, I've settled on trying out two different sub configs in the ody... I'm gonna run the sub system off an old A/D/S P2110 in bridge mono mode, with an AC502 dedicated volume control.

First, I'm gonna try (4) Morel 6.5" drivers in a series parallel config, mounted in a custom baffle on top of the spare tire well. This config is completely stealth, and allows me to keep the spare tire in the well.

My concern is that that the 6.5s won't be enough for me, in which case I have a pair of Boston Competitor 1000s that I will build into a 1.0 ft^3 net volume center console sub.

Will report later once I get stuff installed/built, and will also post response plots, SPL measurements and the like.... Yeah, with all that "free" time I have on my weekends.... So be patient with me folks!

-SJ

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DEP '01 EX no-navi
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by darelldd:
Marvyn -
I have a dual 15" driver, 1200 watt sub in my home theater that is barely sufficient

</font>
Darell, you and I just GOTTA hang out.....


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DEP '01 EX no-navi
 
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