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Discussion Starter #1
2002 odyssey engine wont turn off. Can remove key and it keeps on running. Had to pull the fuel pump fuse to stop the engine, then removed battery cable to turn off the dash. Put fp fuse back in, reconnected battery, start engine normally. Runs and drives no problem, shifts thru all gears properly out on the highway, no codes. Disconnected ign switch at drivers side fuse panel, and it checked ok per factory manual.
Computer problem?
 

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Since the ignition switch cuts power to the ignition coils I would strongly suspect a problem with the switch or a short in the wiring between them. Is the problem there solid or did it stop failing after you restarted the van and then turned it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Problem is there pretty solid. Just now when I went out reconnected battery cable installed fuse, it started and turned off normally, then i get dashlights flickering and it wont shut off again.
Is there a relay or control module in the circut between the switch and the coils?
 

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It isn't just power to the coils you need. There's like a half dozen circuits that need to be lit before the engine will stay running...

The PGM-FI main relay might be sticking on, or the power line supplying its switch signal could be stuck on. The relay(brown) is located up under the left side of the dash(left of steering wheel), what appears to be above the brake pedal's mounting point. Its got a 7 pin connector.

You can check the switchline by checking the two leads at Fuse 1 in the drivers under-dash fusebox. Remove the fuse(and the engine should stop, if it doesn't, the PGM-FI relay is suspect). One of the terminals goes to the relay, and should read 0v. The other should be 12V when the ignition switch is (on or start). If the switched line stays at 12V when the ignition is OFF, the ignition switch looks bad. See also below...

There is a TINY chance the SRS unit could be feeding 12V to that on-or-start circuit. You'd probably be seeing warning lights if this were the case.


The 12V coming to the input of the Fuse1 also feeds fuses 2,6,7,9,10,11,12. in that same box. I'm really surprised that they have >100A of fuses hanging off the ignition switch directly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all of your good info, I'm getting a ignition switch from Honda to see if that resolves my problem.
Let you know what I find, also will disect the old switch looking for clues,
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Installed new ignition switch - no help, intermittant problem.
When probem isn't there, car starts and runs normally, no codes or CEL , shuts off normally.

Sometimes when I shut the engine off, the dash lights flicker, sometimes staying on, even with the key removed,
Closing a door hard, or rocking the van can also flicker these lights, even with the key removed,

I get 6 beeps when i turn the key to on.
lamps that are staying on when it does this: bat, oil, tcs, srs, abs, brake (brake is released), P (trans), all doors open indicators, rear brake lamp.

When it does this, I pull the fuel pump fuse to shut it off, but the dash lights stay on.
 

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That is going to be difficult to diagnose. Chances are there is a short somewhere in the cable harness. If it is running ok with the switch off try flexing the cable harness. First try turning the steering wheel stop to stop. Try where cables go through the firewall. If you move the short the engine should shut off.
 

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You say you replaced the ignition switch, did you buy the whole steering lock (SHJ) body? Did you replace the contact base thats attached to the steering lock body? It sounds like it might be a contact base issue.

Bigulp said:
Installed new ignition switch - no help, intermittant problem.
When probem isn't there, car starts and runs normally, no codes or CEL , shuts off normally.

Sometimes when I shut the engine off, the dash lights flicker, sometimes staying on, even with the key removed,
Closing a door hard, or rocking the van can also flicker these lights, even with the key removed,

I get 6 beeps when i turn the key to on.
lamps that are staying on when it does this: bat, oil, tcs, srs, abs, brake (brake is released), P (trans), all doors open indicators, rear brake lamp.

When it does this, I pull the fuel pump fuse to shut it off, but the dash lights stay on.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
SRS system question: I'm wary of airbag deployment poking aroud with things powered up. Does pulling fuse 2 - SRS keep things safe?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This was a TIT, Tech Installed Trouble . and I was the tech:
Couple of weeks ago I changed trans filter and fluid which ivolved removing the battery box, during which I probably chaffed the insulation from wires going to the under hood sliding door/rear ac fuse/relay assembly.
Found by flexing the cable assembly and the suspect dash lights flashed!!!
This cable has three or four short sections of wire loom joined by black tape and it was at one of these joints that a blue with white stripe wire, blue with silver dots wire, and possibly a white wire made contact.
Pulled wires out of looms, sleeve and tape bare spots and reinstalled in wire looms.
Starts, runs and turns off properly. I can bounce car and slam doors - No more ghosts.

Thanks again all for your help!!!!!


took pictures of wires

I still have the SRS lamp on which may have been from pulling its fuse and running the van?
 

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Once the SRS light is on you have to go through the procedure to turn it off. It will not turn off by itself or by pulling the battery.
 

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Do a search for clearing the SRS light. I'll post it later this weekend, if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
reset SRS and it stayed clear.
Good to go......
Thanks again all for your great support.....greg
 
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