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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to anticipate likely next "big" failure items on my 2003 odyssey. It has 180K miles.

Have already replaced:
alternator,
starter,
water pump,
PS pump, PS high pressure hose, PS reservoir
tie rods,
ball joints,
one engine mount,
front windshield wiper motor,
sliding door "suck in" latch,
sliding door rollers,
AC compressor is currently dead.
Rear vent window motor issue is understood, thanks to this forum, and will be fixed.

I will consider replacing timing and drive belts again soon.

Are there other components critical to vehicle operation ( not recurring maintenance items ) which this generation of odysseys commonly have fail in the next 2 years and 25K miles?

Thanks!!
 

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My van is at 150K..
So far,
Front wheel bearing, one of them failed so replaced the front two.
Ignition coil for one cylinder
EGR valve replaced recently
Timing belt and water pump at 100K miles

As part of preventive maintenance..
I have decided to replace by myself (DIY) the 1. Starter and 2. Alternator so I dont get stranded some place and keep costs low.

I will wait for the part to fail before replacing anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks rman

My van is at 150K..
So far,
Front wheel bearing, one of them failed so replaced the front two.
Ignition coil for one cylinder
EGR valve replaced recently
Timing belt and water pump at 100K miles

As part of preventive maintenance..
I have decided to replace by myself (DIY) the 1. Starter and 2. Alternator so I dont get stranded some place and keep costs low.

I will wait for the part to fail before replacing anything else.
excellent help, thanks! I have a CEL on and may be looking at the EGR valve soon too!

anyone else with other common failures?
 

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excellent help, thanks! I have a CEL on and may be looking at the EGR valve soon too!

anyone else with other common failures?
In terms of bang for buck, the EGR valve is #1 by an order of magnitude. I was driving with a defective EGR valve for years without knowing it. The Stealerships wont tell you to replace it because they can cure a variety of symptoms by faking problems that dont exist at a huge cost to you. Dont wait even one more day to replace it if you havent done it in 15years. Replacing the EGR valve fixed oil leaks for me as well as improved fuel economy. OEM part costs $30 (After market it is $5) and takes 10min to replace. Also buy couple of ignition coils on ebay ($10 ea) and keep them in the glove compartment for a rainy day.
 

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On an 02 Ody, the gem EGR valve is $160 online, the aftermarket at 1A Auto is $60.

Were you referring to the PCV valve (which would be those prices)? I replaced my PCV valve (along with the grommet and hose - easy 10 minute replacement) and do recommend doing so. The valve still rattled but the grommet crumbled as I took it out. The van ran better after replacement.

OP has replaced a lot of things I haven't yet on my 02 with 155k+ miles. But I have done the front window regulators (get OEM, the aftermarkets fail quickly).
 

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On an 02 Ody, the gem EGR valve is $160 online, the aftermarket at 1A Auto is $60.

Were you referring to the PCV valve (which would be those prices)? I replaced my PCV valve (along with the grommet and hose - easy 10 minute replacement) and do recommend doing so. The valve still rattled but the grommet crumbled as I took it out. The van ran better after replacement.

OP has replaced a lot of things I haven't yet on my 02 with 155k+ miles. But I have done the front window regulators (get OEM, the aftermarkets fail quickly).
You are right, I meant to type PCV Valve. It is PCV Valve not EGR. OP please note.

Re: EGR valve,

 

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Wow, that is a lot of stuff replaced. I have an '03 with 207K miles. Alternator was done, IAC valve and have had to replace two coils. I just did the EGR and completely cleaned out all the passages, although on the '03, they aren't as prone to clogging. Based on my other gen 2 Odys, I would say that you will have to do a coil replacement at some point and then keep an eye on the suspension parts. I have found the engine to be excellent with upkeep on fluid changes, same for the transmisson, but I have had a tranny cooler on all of mine.
 

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Agreed on the coil comments. Be aware of how to detect (probably will get a check engine light and misfire code), and how to test ("drop" or something like that). Carrying a spare in your car may be a good idea. Just need a 6mm Allen wrench to do a roadside swap, if you've already got everything else figured out ahead of time.

Only one engine mount replaced? There are 5 (of which two are technically transmission mounts), and at your mileage, I expect the other 4 are ready for retirement.

"tie rods"? Usually the rods themselves are fine and it is just the outer ends - "tie rod ends" that get replaced. Is that what you did? If so, I'll advise that the inner tie rod ends may also need replacing. I overhauled basically all the joints in my front suspension on my '99 at around 220k miles. Bought a kit and went about replacing it all at once. The inner tie rod ends are difficult to test until things are partially disassembled, and when I got that far on mine, I found them to be definitely in need of replacement.
 

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I have 170k on my 2004 and am dealing with annoying ignition lock issues. If your key starts to stick and not turn, start thinking about repairing or replacing before you get stranded.
 

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have an 04 with 489,870 and replace everything except the motor at least once, done the trans 2 times that has seemed to be the killer on these vans if a familly keep them or not, maintenance is everything and i would trust my van to jump in at anytime and drive 10,000km across canada without a worry, plus 90% of the work i get done is at honda and theres hondas dealers everywwhere
 

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I have an 03 with 216k, we had to replace the tranny at about 200k but it was giving us trouble for a while before we did. The power steering pump went at probably 100k and it's getting noisy again so it's due for replacement soon. The ignition lock was replaced at around 150k. The wheel bearings were done at least once. The brake rotors have been problematic, they seem to warp fairly quickly after the first replacement, I've tried high end heavy duty rotors, didn't seem to make a difference.

AFAIK we're still on the original alternator and most other items.
 

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Bought my '99 used in 2009 with nearly 200k miles.
AAmco "rebuilt" the tranny shortly thereafter and replaced both half shafts and rear motor mount.
After 4 attempts and one seriously overheated motor, was finally finished with AAmco's rebuilding and had an at least driveable if not perfectly driveable van. They said it would need a new valve body for an extra $500 to fix my final complaint.
After driving for years the blown head gasket finally got bad enough that it had to be fixed. I took the opportunity to swap to a newer 2003 engine. As I was not sure how the computer would match up, I also swapped in the 2003 5-spd auto after rebuilding it myself. After changing the wiring to match the computer to the chassis, it all started and ran great with no issues for the last several years.
I did choose to replace the timing belt and water pump while the engine was out
I am now pushing real hard against 300k miles.
I have never had to replace any coils.
I have replaced the plugs twice.
I have replaced one O2 sensor
I have replaced the high pressure PS hose.
I have replaced the PS pump
I have replaced the alternator
I have replaced all the motor mounts
I have had one CV joint boot break and replaced it with a junk yard shaft that was in good condition
The entire front suspension except the struts has been replaced.
Rear adjustable upper control arm allows for real alignment
The outer tie rod ends have been replaced.
The inner tie rod ends have not.
The sway bar links turned out to be an elusive noise that I could not get rid of.
The mounting bushings for the steering rack were completely missing (worn out). This was noticed by the steering changing center position after turning a corner.
New front brakes and rotors. 60 days later rotors were warped. New slotted\drilled Power Stop front rotors and pads. Warped again. Had them turned. Swapped rear drum brakes for disks off the 2003. Complete bolt on. No more warped front brakes. Grabbed 2003 rear coil springs while I was there as mine were sagging a bit.
Main relay caused intermittent shut down or no start when warm.
Electrical part of ignition switch caused similar but different issues as main relay.
Key tumblers caused inability to turn key. Sometimes could not turn on, sometimes could not turn off. Had this done at a lock shop but it will need it again soon as it is acting up.
I have had to replace the Closer motors for both sliding doors. Twice. These are expensive parts (unless you use a junk yard - hence why I did them twice) but are a fairly easy swap once you know how.
Vans are terrible at wearing the outer edge of tires. I upgraded to an SUV class tire with a stiffer sidewall to help combat this but I had to go up to a 235/60/16. Looks great.
I have replaced both the front and rear heater cores.
I have replaced the radiator and both cooling fans
I have replaced the EGR valve on the 99 motor including the cleaning. Have not done the 03 motor.
Always use an aftermarket tranny cooler. Also make sure the cooler is big enough. My first attempt I used a smaller one thinking it is bigger than the factory cooler so it should be fine. And it was for years. One day on the freeway I found the engine revving and a cloud behind me. Coasted into a rest area and called AAA. They towed me to a town and I spent Sat night in a hotel. Sunday morning I added fluid and drove with no issues for another 200 miles. Except I had no 5th gear. Was able to nurse it around for awhile and cleaned some screens, changed the fluid and 5th gear came back on its own one day. I did get a bigger cooler and now it works great. I have been out on vacation over the mountains with it and like OdyVanMan04 says " i would trust my van to jump in at anytime and drive 10,000km across canada without a worry". This is mostly because I have replaced everything already and I definitely trust it to keep my family safe wherever we go and back.

Sorry for the long post but maybe it will help someone.
Doug
 

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I'd be surprised if your engine mounts (the 2 not yet replaced) and your transmission mounts (there are 2) aren't shot. If they're not crushed/mashed, then they're probably as hard as a rock. Either condition means they need to be replaced.

If you're getting any vibration at highway speed, I'd be surprised if it isn't your CV axles. The vibration will feel like an out of balance tire. Clicking in a slow, tight turn and/or vibration upon acceleration might not be present and the axles can still be shot (i.e., causing vibration at highway speed).

The clock light, i.e., the light bulb that lights up the clock.

Ignition switch. The tumblers wear out. One day, you won't be able to turn the key. If you're lucky, you'll be able to wiggle the key to get it to turn... so you can get it started and drive it to a locksmith (or DIY; there are some good threads about this fix).
 

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Power steering pump noise!
I’ve seen a lot of pumps being replaced on here. There is a screen that gets clogged in the fluid reservoir, it’s causes the noise.
I had the noise once and sucked the fluid out with a Mighty Vac Fluid Evacuator. I cleaned the screen while removing the fluid. Noise went away instantly!! I did this every 10k and also changed the transmission fluid every 10k-20k with Honda Fluid only. Had 205k miles on it when I sold it. Original p/s pump, transmission, starter, alternator, coils, door closers and latches, etc. must have been very lucky! Also original front rotors if you can believe that! Lightly turned them twice!
 

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Power steering pump noise!
I’ve seen a lot of pumps being replaced on here. There is a screen that gets clogged in the fluid reservoir, it’s causes the noise.
I had the noise once and sucked the fluid out with a Mighty Vac Fluid Evacuator. I cleaned the screen while removing the fluid. Noise went away instantly!! I did this every 10k and also changed the transmission fluid every 10k-20k with Honda Fluid only. Had 205k miles on it when I sold it. Original p/s pump, transmission, starter, alternator, coils, door closers and latches, etc. must have been very lucky! Also original front rotors if you can believe that! Lightly turned them twice!
Hi. Thank you for posting your experience with your odyssey. Can you please tell us how to get to the PS screen so we could clean ours too. Thank you
 

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Our '04 Odyssey is around 160K miles. I did the water pump and other stuff that was recommended at 105K miles. The mechanic I used was the cheapest when I called around for pricing, but he was also recommended by a couple people I trust, so I went with him and have continued to go back since.

I've had to replace a couple coils. After the last one, I asked if I should just do all of them and the mechanic was ambivalent on that. He seemed to think I should just wait for them to fail before replacing them.

The front passenger side window slid down into the door twice after something in the door failed. My mechanic did that work both times. I also had to replace the hydraulic struts that hold open the trunk hatch.

My power steering fluid was leaking, so he resealed the pump. I need to check it again to see how it's doing. Wondering if I'll just need to replace the pump.

The power sliding doors are wonky - sometimes we have to manually pull them closed. One of them only opens when you use the remote but only closes when you use the inside control. Sometimes one of them will start beeping and opening again when closing, even though nothing is in the way.

Sometime broke under the driver's seat, so it's now at an angle. My mechanic said that a new seat would cost a lot, so he recommended looking online and he would install it for me. I didn't have much luck, though - has anyone had to replace the driver's side seat? It has the power controls.

Otherwise, it's held up well. I keep up on all the maintenance, including the transmission fluid changes. I'm really hoping we can keep the transmission going for a long time. That's the big money suck that I worry about.
 

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Oh, and what do I need to know about the PCV and EGR valves? Should I just replace those?

If so, how hard are those to do? I'm the kind of guy who can change his oil and check fluids - I can probably change something out if I have a video tutorial to follow and it's not too complicated.
 

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Replacing the PCV valve at 160K would be good preventive maintenance. The job is straightforward - remove the hose and pull out the valve. It's located at the back of the intake manifold. A complete job would also include the grommet.

Replacing the EGR valve may be premature when you have no driveability issues or codes. Typical symptom is engine roughness, usually when cruising under light throttle.

However, the EGR passages often accumulate carbon. In the extreme, they can become blocked and cause symptoms similar to a bad EGR valve. The EGR passages are located in the upper intake manifold cover. A good carburetor cleaner (I found that Honda's is better than all I tried from the parts store) and a wooden stick are all that's needed.

Dave
 

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2000 Odyssey bought used at 288,000 Km. Add magdeline inline transmission filter, disabled sliding door, now manual close and open, upgrade headlight to led but drl wont work so need to turn on the headlight manually, replaced inner and outer tie rod end, clean egr, pcv, manifold intake, egr valve, carburetor, PS hose broke and replaced, changed fluids, clock back light not yet replaced, upgraded to after market stereo, installed subwoofer/amp, new tire and black wheel now 300K km. highway drives mostly by myself, no load but me and the subwoofer so i hope tranny would last longer. Im thinking maybe the cause of early tranny failure is when van is used fully loaded and with trailer most of the time.
 

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Oh, and what do I need to know about the PCV and EGR valves? Should I just replace those?

If so, how hard are those to do? I'm the kind of guy who can change his oil and check fluids - I can probably change something out if I have a video tutorial to follow and it's not too complicated.
There are lots of youtube video on how to clean/replace this parts.
 
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