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To clean the PS screen, what I do is get the bottle out of the mount and tip it so you can remove the return hose. Place that hose into a bottle (2l work good) and start he van and go from lock to lock to pump out all the fluid. I then remove the bottle completely and back flush the screen with a solvent. Can be a spray can or you can just use gasoline. Let the bottle dry thoroughly and blow out with air if needed. Remount the bottle and fill with new fluid. Start the van and turn from lock to lock again. You will need to add more fluid. Turn from lock to lock with the reservoir at the proper level until you get all of the air out of the system. Result is new fluid in bottle with a cleaned screen. Some folks will put fresh fluid into the bottle in the initial step to flush the system before completely emptying it. If you do this, you are typically good to go for 50K+ miles or more.
 

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To clean the PS screen, what I do is get the bottle out of the mount and tip it so you can remove the return hose. Place that hose into a bottle (2l work good) and start he van and go from lock to lock to pump out all the fluid. I then remove the bottle completely and back flush the screen with a solvent. Can be a spray can or you can just use gasoline. Let the bottle dry thoroughly and blow out with air if needed. Remount the bottle and fill with new fluid. Start the van and turn from lock to lock again. You will need to add more fluid. Turn from lock to lock with the reservoir at the proper level until you get all of the air out of the system. Result is new fluid in bottle with a cleaned screen. Some folks will put fresh fluid into the bottle in the initial step to flush the system before completely emptying it. If you do this, you are typically good to go for 50K+ miles or more.
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thank you all for lots of excellent guidance on what else commonly needs replacing!

I've just replaced about a dozen dash lights that go on when running/head lights are on .. plus the clock light. Easy job. I found a few of the needed bulbs are available from non-Honda auto parts store. Good youtube videos on this.

Currently cleaning EGR manifold ports. What a mess! Mine looked very similar to the video shared page 1 of this thread by rman. Again, thanks for making needed info so accessible!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
it turns out my CEL was due to a P1457, and this is likely indicating a very common problem on odysseys ( maybe hondas in general ). Apparently this is most commonly due to a failed EVAP canister shut valve. Mechanic diagnosed it as such, but says he needs to replace the evap canister too because the screws connecting the valve to the canister are typically corroded too badly to remove ( i'm in northern IL ). Since this seems to be a very commonly failing part, I wanted to add it to the thread .. and ask if there are any tips regarding removing the screws attaching the shutoff valve. I want to try to fix it myself as it is not a complicated job. My thought is to remove the canister and valve together, then use penetrating oil, some vibration, and patience to remove the screws. Worst case, I can replace BOTH the canister and valve myself, for less than the mechanic would have charged. thoughts?
 

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it turns out my CEL was due to a P1457, and this is likely indicating a very common problem on odysseys ( maybe hondas in general ). Apparently this is most commonly due to a failed EVAP canister shut valve. Mechanic diagnosed it as such, but says he needs to replace the evap canister too because the screws connecting the valve to the canister are typically corroded too badly to remove ( i'm in northern IL ). Since this seems to be a very commonly failing part, I wanted to add it to the thread .. and ask if there are any tips regarding removing the screws attaching the shutoff valve. I want to try to fix it myself as it is not a complicated job. My thought is to remove the canister and valve together, then use penetrating oil, some vibration, and patience to remove the screws. Worst case, I can replace BOTH the canister and valve myself, for less than the mechanic would have charged. thoughts?
Been there done that on an accord. The one I did was so corroded it was impossible to tell where a bolt ended and a nut began. Save yourself the hassle and just replace both while you are there. The canister and it's charcoal filtration can't be that far behind on needing to be replaced. MHO
 

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I was getting the P1457 for about a year a few years ago. Read thoroughly on this site about it and concluded that it was a typically parts-shotgunned problem. Many cases of people reporting that they took it to the shop, they replaced x y z, and it's fixed ... thanks a lot for the help guys ... a few days later ... the problem is back (and obviously, all the parts replaced were not actually the problem). So even if there is a prime suspect, there are multiple things that could cause that code.

Me, after learning this, and knowing that one fundamental problem that could cause P1457 was leaks due to cracks, I took the stuff out from under the car (sorry, no details beyond that). Cleaned, inspected, and tested as best I could, found nothing really wrong. And I used silicone caulk on every seam and potential crack I could see, not holding back. That fixed it.

Slightly related ... I had a P1456 that would come and go for a few years there. Similar hesitation to start fixing stuff since there were many reports of unhelpful parts replacement. Well I hesitated enough, until the problem fixed itself and has been gone for 5+ years now.

CA climate, virtually no rust.

Also, having my own code reader has been essential in navigating these problems efficiently.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
well, i can add one more repair to the list of common issues with the 2003 odyssey. i just repaired the rear window wiper. the common failure results from corrosion on the shaft connecting the motor to the wiper. the forum has a great thread on this fix. rebuild rear windshield wiper
 

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2001, original owner, 214,000 miles. Still original alternator/coils/O2 sensors. Waiting for them to fail.
4th transmission. Had usual issues, common to the other posters. Oh, no valve adjustment.
Gas mileage, same as when new. Average 20 miles per gallon. City/Freeway.

Thought about being proactive. Change all 6 coils now. If you buy the "cheap sets", Amazon. Say $60 dollars or so,
why wait. But after reading reviews, many posters say, they are no good. Fail withing a year or so.

OEM coils run around $70 each. So, will wait.....for now....
 

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i am surprise no one mention valve adjustments. I guess that's not important at all....
Quite the opposite! :)

Tight valves can burn the seats, and loose ones can cause misfiring.
 

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I know! But I don't seems to see anyone have done it (Ok, maybe a few of us). Mine is at 160k but really don't want to put the money into it....
Me too.

214,000 miles, 2001 year, original owner. Valves never adjusted. Friend had 330,000 miles, 2000 year, never had valves adjusted. Maybe, adjusting valves is "more" critical, depending on the Year van was manufactured?
Alternator still original. My friend at 330,000, was still on original alternator. Yet, I've noticed many posters, with
newer vans, have already replaced their alternators.

I know, newer models use the "same 3.5" engine, but have much greater H/P, and many more added features.
So maybe, valve adjustment, more critical cause engine is "working so hard".....with added H/P....
 

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On my second rebuilt transmission and that's the only large expense other than the regular consumables.
Put a set of brushes in my alternator at 200,000 miles.
Alternator should be good for another 200K
 

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I'm driving my 4th Ody, all of them are or were at 228K miles and higher. I've never even thought of doing the valves and never would. They are virtually never an issue.
 

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Have an 04 with 160K miles. Original owner.
I’ve done the 105K pump/belt, leaky CV boot replaced, replaced tie rod ends (outer) and new front struts, PS pump hose had pinhole leak, 4 motor mounts rand hatch struts.

I don’t think I ever had the spark plugs replaced. I’m almost afraid to do that as I’d be concerned they’d never come out...LoL

Transmission never a problem
I need 2-3 more years on this car before I can replace. I see so many Gen 2 on the road which is a testament of the quality in my mind.

I do all the fluid maintenances as recommended. I also just started adding Redline SI to the tank. I did a full bottle a few weeks back and I do notice that it seems to run smoother and the pickup is a bit better. I’ll put in a 1/4 bottle over the next 4 fill ups I guess..Might be a placebo effect too...lol...but suspect it can’t hurt....
 
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