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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed a DEI 561R and 556HW in my 2003 Odyssey EX and had several questions. I also wanted to share some of the things I learned in hopes it might help someone else installing a remote start.

My Question
First off, does anyone know where the yel/red wire for the factory hood pin switch is located? 12volt.com states that it is right of steering column but this does not help since I cannot find it.
Also does anyone know the proper way to add a relay to control the power sliding doors with my AUX output? The doors still work on my wife factory remote just not my aftermarket one. I have seen this mention on here before but have been unable to find any diagrams showing how to accomplish using an aftermarket remote with the sliding doors.


The Install
I went with the 561R simply because I found it at a better price than the 561T. It also gave me an extra remote that now I carry on my key chain and my wife has the factory remote. Having the bypass module installed also allows me to be able to use the remote start to start the car then use my cheap $15 key that has no chip in it to drive away. If I use the same key without remote starting first it will only crank and not start.


Obstactles Overcome
Some of the drawbacks I have read where that the 561 would not allow you to unlock or lock your doors during remote start. That is not true. In order to enable this feature you must fool the factory wireless module into believing the car is not running. You can simply cut the yellow wire feeding the factory wireless module. Alternatively and maybe a more correct way is to connect the yellow wire on the H1 primary haness of the 561 module to yellow wire of the factory wireless module. So my install DOES allow the doors to be locked and unlocked with the factory remote during remote start, but it still DOES NOT allow the doors to be locked/unlocked while the key is inserted due to the key sense signal. This is how it should be in my opinion.

The second aspect to my install is that I refused to connect the activation wire of the 561 remote start module directly to the door lock motor. Doing so in my opinion is a huge security risk. Say if I were a theif and I know it is done like this on your car then I can gain access to your car(break window), hit your door lock switch 2-3 times which would then disable your alarm and start your car. All a thief would have to do then is break the ignition switch and take off. I choose to connect the activation wire to the panic output of the factory wireless module. I know that the panic will no longer work, but my wife decided that it would never get used anyways(I know this solution is not for everyone). I could have also just as easily connected it to the lock output of the factory wireless module and it would have been just as secure. My point if you can activate your remote start from your door panel lock switch then that is no good in my opinion.


561 Options I Selected
-Changed the parking lights from flashing to constant
-Changed crank time from 0.6s to 0.8s(thinking about going to 1.0s)
-Changed activation pulses from 2 to 1(triggered by panic button)
-Changed lock/unlock pulses from 1 to 2(does horn confirmation on lock / driver door then all doors on unlock)
-Disabled the lock/unlock with ignition on

Wiring Connection Chart
Code:
[B]Module	   Vehicle  Function                     Location In Vehicle                              Notes[/B]

[B]Heavy Gauge Relay Harness[/B]
Pnk        Blk/Yel  (+) Ignition                 Brown Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box
Ppl        Blk/Wht  (+) Start                    Brown Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box
Org        Wht/Blk  (+) Accessory                Brown Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box
Red        Wht      (+) 12V                      Brown Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box
Pnk/Wht    Yel      (+) Dash Lights              Brown Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box
Red        Wht      (+) 12V                      Brown Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box

[B]H1 Primary Harness[/B]
Lt Grn/Blk Blu      Disarm                       Driver Door Multiplexer(Behind Window Switches)
Grn/Wht    Blu/Wht  Arm                          Driver Door Multiplexer(Behind Window Switches)
Yel        Yel	    (+) Ign                      Omron Wireless Module Behind Glovebox            CUT
Wht/Blu    Red/Yel  (-) Activation to RX Panic   Omron Wireless Module Behind Glovebox            CUT
Gry/Blk    N/C      (-) Wait To Start
Wht/Red    N/C      (+) Activation
Red/Wht    N/C      Channel 2
Blk        Ground   Ground
Wht        Red/Yel  (+/-) Light Flash            Green Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box		

[B]H2 Remote Start Harness[/B]
Blk/Wht    Ground   Neutral Switch
Vlt/Wht    Blu      Tach Input                   Test Con. Above Master Cylinder
Brn        Wht/Blk  (+) Brake Input              Green Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box
Gray       Yel/Red  (-) Hood Input               ???
Blu/Wht    Org/Blk  (-) 2nd Status Output        556HW Bypass Module

[B]Door Lock Harness[/B]
Green      Grn/Blu  (-) Lock                     Omron Wireless Module Behind Glovebox
Blue       Pnk/Blk  (-) Unlock                   Omron Wireless Module Behind Glovebox

[B]556HW Bypass Harness[/B]
Grn        Brn/Blk  Reference                    Connector Left of Steering Col Under Dash
Blu/Wht    Blu/Wht  Rem Start In to Status Out   Remote Start Module
Org/Blk    Org/Blu  Synch / Data 2               Connector Left of Steering Col Under Dash
Org        N/C
Yel	   Blu/Grn  Data ECM Side                Connector Left of Steering Col Under Dash        CUT
Yel/Blk    Blu/Grn  Data Key Side                Connector Left of Steering Col Under Dash        CUT
Pnk/Blk    N/C
Pnk        Blk/Yel  (+) Ignition                 Brown Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box
Red        Wht      (+) 12V                      Brown Con. Behind Driver Kick Panel Fuse Box
Blk        Ground   Ground
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I just found the DEI document #1085 that shows how to connect the aftermarket remote to the power sliding doors at the12volt.com.

I also found at the12volt.com the hood pin switch is not yellow/red but yellow on the EX model and goes to the driver's side multiplexer. I will look into this later. I will feel much better when the remote start is disabled when the hood is open.
 

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Blake, thanks for all the info! Just finished up my remote start in my 2003 EX. everything works well except that when i use the Panic button to activate remote start, the car starts but then after a few seconds shuts down. I check the shutdown code in the remote start unit and it states "remote control shutdown". If I use the remote that came with my remote start, everything works as it should. Could it be that the panic button is sending multiple negative signals since function of panic is to honk horn/flash lights for 30 sec?

Also, when you cut the red/yel wire for the panic button signal, which side did you connect the wht/blu wire from the remote start? Omron side or vehicle side? I connected mine to the Omron side. thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Blake, thanks for all the info! Just finished up my remote start in my 2003 EX. everything works well except that when i use the Panic button to activate remote start, the car starts but then after a few seconds shuts down. I check the shutdown code in the remote start unit and it states "remote control shutdown". If I use the remote that came with my remote start, everything works as it should. Could it be that the panic button is sending multiple negative signals since function of panic is to honk horn/flash lights for 30 sec?

Also, when you cut the red/yel wire for the panic button signal, which side did you connect the wht/blu wire from the remote start? Omron side or vehicle side? I connected mine to the Omron side. thanks!
You have it wired correctly. I noticed this quirk as well. The factory remote panic will put out 2 negative pulses by default. My guess is the second pulse is redundant to ensure the panic signal was recieved.

It will work the way you have it wired(just like mine) but you have to press the panic button twice. My wife has the factory remote so I cannot verify right now, but as I remember the procedure is to press the panic button once. The red light will blink. Then quickly press it again and it will disable the second pulse from going out and turning it right back off. That was my solution since it was easy to train the wife on how to operate it. It also allows you to use your factory remote and still operate the power doors seperate from the remote start.
 

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blake, thanks for the quick response. ok, glad to know that I wired it properly and it is just a quirk of the setup. I tried the double tap of the panic button and car stays on :) Not that big of a deal and wife should be ok with that. might even disguise the quirk as a feature to prevent accidental remote starts while keys are in pocket or purse :)
your also mentioned that another option would be to trigger the remote start with the lock button. perhaps 3 pulses of the lock button? how would i wire this up? just connect the wht/blu (- activation wire) to the - lock wire (green wire from alarm). then program the remote start to activate with 3 pulses instead of the default 1? your concern was that the car could be started using the power door lock buttons on the vehicle. is this true? I could get in the car then just press the lock button 3 times on the door and the car would start? thanks again for all your help.
 

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also, another quick question. I didn't hook up the arm/disarm wires as i didnt want to fish wires to the door. however, everything seems to be working fine. any issues with not hooking these wires up?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
also, another quick question. I didn't hook up the arm/disarm wires as i didnt want to fish wires to the door. however, everything seems to be working fine. any issues with not hooking these wires up?
I am assuming you have been remote starting with the doors unlocked. Hit lock on the factory remote with all the doors closed. Watch the security light on the dash blink and wait for it to go off. The alarm is now armed. If you try and remote start in this state the alarm should go off unless you hit the unlock button to disarm the alarm. If you connect the disarm wire then you can remote start with the doors still locked.

To clarify on my security issue I saw. Other posts suggested tapping into the door lock actuator wire for the remote start. That would allow unlock button located on the door panel to start the car. If you tapped into the lock or unlock wire from the Omron wireless module then only the signal from your factory remote will start the car. Hope that makes sense.
 

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I have been remote starting with both the doors locked and unlocked. and to confirm that the alarm is active, i press the lock button twice and hear the horn honk once. I was also surprised that it worked. perhaps it is the immobilizer bypass that is disarming the factory alarm since the alarm is disabled when you insert the key in the ignition.

so to clarify on the door lock activation... if I connect to the lock wire at the Omron module, the car cannot be remote started with the door lock switches on the door panels?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have been remote starting with both the doors locked and unlocked. and to confirm that the alarm is active, i press the lock button twice and hear the horn honk once. I was also surprised that it worked. perhaps it is the immobilizer bypass that is disarming the factory alarm since the alarm is disabled when you insert the key in the ignition.

so to clarify on the door lock activation... if I connect to the lock wire at the Omron module, the car cannot be remote started with the door lock switches on the door panels?
Wow that is intersting. Wish I had known that would work because I spent at lot of time and cut knuckles trying to fish wires through the factory door wire boot. If it works then I would just be happy. I am pretty sure though that once you leave the car on for 12min and the car turns its self off that the alarm does not rearm. You would need the rearm wire for this, but i would not worry about it. I only hooked my rearm wire up because I was already there with the door panel off.

Yes if you connect to the Grn/Blu wire of the Omron harness then it will only send the signal to the multiplexer computer that is not the same as the door switch. If it were hooked to the lock actuator directly then any signal from the door switch or remote would activate the remote start. Go ahead and hook it up. Then just verify that it works as desired. That is what I would do.

The reason I choose the panic button was simply because it would allow you to start the car without all the horn honking and in only 2 button presses. It will be 3 button presses with 2 honks if you choose the 3 pulse option on the lock button. Just keep that in mind.
 

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my bad. the disarm wire does need to be connected. Apparently, I was not waiting long enough for the alarm to completely arm before attempting to remote start. Once i allowed the alarm to completely arm, the alarm would go off if I tried to remote start. plus, i didn't think about the scenario if the remote starter timed out and the alarm would not be rearmed. thx for the insight.

So in to the door I went. wow! what a PITA! but all is good and the car is all back together.

I ended up leaving the activation via the Panic button since you brought up good points about the 2 honks. Could get annoying.

thx again for the wiring info and additional info.
 

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I have a question for the 12v gurus!

I have just installed the factory keyless entry system for a 2003 LX. The factory remote has an "Option" button on it which can be used to activate additional factory accessories.

Do you know if that "Option" button can be used to activate/deactivate an aftermarket remote start system? And possibly which make/model? I would love to be able to add a remote starter but not have to carry an additional remote just for that functionality.

Thanks!
 

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I am not familiar with the "Option" button as my 2003 EX did not have that button on the remote. Is the system you installed from a different model? accord, civic, etc? if the "brain" has a wire that responds to that "option" button then, yes you can use that for the remote start. You may need a relay depending on the signal output from the keyless entry and the input required from the remote start.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes if your keyless module will output a pulse then it should be possible. I used a DEI 561R, but I sure other keyless entry driven remote start modules would work. Just put a volt meter on the output of the aux button of your keyless module and see if you get a negative or positive pulse. You will need to match the same logic on the trigger of the remote start module. If the inverse logic is required you can use a relay as autobot152 has already stated.
 

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I am not familiar with the "Option" button as my 2003 EX did not have that button on the remote. Is the system you installed from a different model? accord, civic, etc? if the "brain" has a wire that responds to that "option" button then, yes you can use that for the remote start. You may need a relay depending on the signal output from the keyless entry and the input required from the remote start.
This is the remote - it is an option for the LX models. My van doesn't have the motors for the sliding doors that the EX has.


What would I need to do to install a DEI remote starter... do I need to have a spare transponder key strapped under the dash to allow remote starts? Or is there a better, safer way?

PS. THANK YOU for such a prompt reply! I know this is kind of a thread from the dead!
 

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Yes if your keyless module will output a pulse then it should be possible. I used a DEI 561R, but I sure other keyless entry driven remote start modules would work. Just put a volt meter on the output of the aux button of your keyless module and see if you get a negative or positive pulse. You will need to match the same logic on the trigger of the remote start module. If the inverse logic is required you can use a relay as autobot152 has already stated.
Thanks! The remote is an OEM honda one... the "option" button is supposed to be available for such things as hatch release or windows down...

When you say to use a voltmeter - do you mean I should crack open the remote itself, or look for a corresponding pulsing on the vehicle?
 

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This is the remote - it is an option for the LX models. My van doesn't have the motors for the sliding doors that the EX has.


What would I need to do to install a DEI remote starter... do I need to have a spare transponder key strapped under the dash to allow remote starts? Or is there a better, safer way?

PS. THANK YOU for such a prompt reply! I know this is kind of a thread from the dead!
thanks for clarifying. I forgot that the LX does not have power sliding doors so the remote would not have those extra buttons on it.

As far as parts you would need the add on remote start unit. this is different from a stand alone remote start unit as it would not come with remote/receiver components. it would rely on input from your existing alarm/keyless entry. in your case, you would connect the remote start to your factory keyless entry control unit. you would also need an immobilizer bypass kit. the older ones required you to keep a spare key in the vehicle to bypass the transponder but the newer units can now learn the transponder code so you do not need to keep a spare key in the car. they cost more but you save money since you dont have to buy another spare transponder key. i found this from a quick amazon search but be sure to order the correct one for your vehicle.

Amazon.com: Directed Electronics PKALL Encrypted Key Data Tranponder Bypass Kit: Car Electronics
 

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Thanks! The remote is an OEM honda one... the "option" button is supposed to be available for such things as hatch release or windows down...

When you say to use a voltmeter - do you mean I should crack open the remote itself, or look for a corresponding pulsing on the vehicle?
you are testing the wires that are coming out of the control unit of the keyless entry. i think your control unit is under the steering wheel. one of the wires coming out of the control unit is the "option" wire (also known as aux output) that sends a pulse when you press the option button on your remote. if you can find the wiring schematics for the keyless entry, it would tell you what color that option wire is. if you do not have that info, then you can use a multimeter to test each of the wires coming out of the control unit. you are looking for a wire that receives a small pulse ~200ma when you press and hold the option button and then goes back to 0 when you release the option button. you would then connect this wire to your remote start activation input wire.
 

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you are testing the wires that are coming out of the control unit of the keyless entry. i think your control unit is under the steering wheel. one of the wires coming out of the control unit is the "option" wire (also known as aux output) that sends a pulse when you press the option button on your remote. if you can find the wiring schematics for the keyless entry, it would tell you what color that option wire is. if you do not have that info, then you can use a multimeter to test each of the wires coming out of the control unit. you are looking for a wire that receives a small pulse ~200ma when you press and hold the option button and then goes back to 0 when you release the option button. you would then connect this wire to your remote start activation input wire.
Perfect! I know where the brain unit is... I installed the keyless entry system myself! :)

Thanks for all the great info!
 

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As far as parts you would need the add on remote start unit. this is different from a stand alone remote start unit as it would not come with remote/receiver components. it would rely on input from your existing alarm/keyless entry. in your case, you would connect the remote start to your factory keyless entry control unit.
Any suggestions on the make/model of remote start unit? All I keep finding are complete systems that include a receiver and remotes...?
 

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