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Discussion Starter #1
Had the AC in my wife's ODyssey stop working all of a sudden this evening. It was working very well I turned it down and it basically stopped blowing cold air. This odyssey has "Auto" climate control. If I have this set to auto there is nothing, if I put it to full there is air, not cold, just moving air. Anywhere in between, nothing. It's the same with the auto. I can turn the air all the way down and nothing at all. Not sure if my problem may be freon, 130K miles never been charged. Or if it may be the thermostat or the compressor (man I hope it's not the compressor).

Any ideas?

Thanks for any help!
Mike
 

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I don't know about the rest of us, but your post confuses me.

"Working well and turned it down", does that mean turned up the temperature?

"Set to auto there is nothing, put to full there is moving air". This implies to me that the moving air is on full speed fan. Further, this implies that the transistor assembly for the fan is broken. I'm a little less familiar with the Auto controls, but I'm sure there's still a transistor assembly.

"Its the same with the auto" I don't understand. If you set it to auto and turn the temperature dial all the way down or up, the fan should run at full speed.

Check if the rear AC is working. This would indicate the compressor is fine.

Remaining likely failures are the interior air temperature checker, which is unlikely to be the cause, or the HVAC control unit itself, which seems to be the most likely failure.

Also check the heating system(assuming the weather allows it). If you ask for 85 degrees, does it get there? How's the fan? If you ask for 85 degrees and force the fan to full speed, does it eventually get to 85 degrees? These would be indications of the interior temperature sensor being bad.

Note that the interior temperature sensor being bad would definitely NOT affect the fan speed control, which is yet another finger pointing at the climate control unit itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply, and sorry I will try to describe the situation better.

This evening the AC was working just fine. I turned it down b/c the wife was getting cold. When I turned it down, it basically went off.

Here's what I know.

When I set the temperature to 60 (lowest) or 90 (I think thats the hottest) and have the "flow" control set to Auto I get a delayed start of the air - takes about 5-10 seconds to start flowing. At 60 it's warm air, not cold. At 90 it's hot air - heated. If I move the temp controller anywhere between 60 and 90 with the other knob still at Auto I do not get any air at all.

Moving on to the other way I tested. If I move the flow controller off Auto I get no air until the controller is to the full position. At this point it's like I said above - at 60 warm air, not cold and moving higher it becomes hot - heated.

I can turn on the rear air, however, I do not know if it is blowing cold air. But no matter where I set it (1st, 2nd, or 3rd setting) I do have air blowing.

Hope this helps, and thanks again for the reply.

Mike
 

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Is there a reason you can't tell if the rear air is cold?

It should be coming out the upper vents, and perceptably cooler.

I'm assuming you don't have Navigation, but most of the below applies in either case.


Your transistor assembly is possibly blown. I've checked, and there is one on this model as well. That'll get you the partial fan speeds back. See further in this post for more details.

If you have skills and a multimeter, check if the AC compressor clutch relay coil is grounded (one side should be 12V always with the key on) and the other side will either float high or go to ground, when you turn on the AC full(60 degrees). Its extremely likely that the line >won't< get grounded, and that means that one of 4 things is bad.....


Climate control unit is by far the most likely. It probably had some internal failure that took out the fan control circuit and the AC compressor circuit at the same time. It's possible that the failure also wrecked the power transistor(its a separate component), but a little unlikely.

PCM is not very likely. It looks like the CCU calls for the compressor to turn on, and the PCM then simply passes the signal on. It also wouldn't screw up your fan at the same time.


AC pressure switch or actual pressure in the AC system wrong.
This would not have failed as a response to your adjusting the temperature, so is exceedingly unlikely to be the problem.


Evaporator temperature sensor is bad.
This would not have failed as a response to your adjusting the temperature, so is exceedingly unlikely to be the problem.



The CCU is basically the box hanging off the back of the knobs, not a separate device. I bet there's a replacement description somewhere on the board. A new one is about $350 new, but I bet you can get one at a junkyard in the $25-$50 range
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The rear is not blowing cold air. Just checked.

I did the diagnostic on the ccu, I got the N error code (the bottom of the right 8 on the display). This is of course based on some other docs I found in another forum.

Does anyone know what that means?

Thanks
Mike
 

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I still think its the CCU. Too many things related to it are broken. I'm sure the compressor-on signal is supposed to come from it, even when only the rear AC is on.
 

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I should add....

I just looked up the N code, it says...

"A problem in the blower motor circuit".


It goes on to how to check the power transistor and all the wires leading to it, before finally telling you the CCU is probably bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks so much for the help!!!

I found a site that lists salvage yards and their parts that are available. http://www.car-part.com/

Have you ever used them? I found a local place that has 2000 & 2001 parts but a place pretty close that has 2003. They have it listed as Heater/AC control.

Here is the search I did : http://bit.ly/d2J11s

Also, here is what I found on ebay. http://bit.ly/9qX4AX Is this the entire unit I need or is there something else?

Thanks again,
Mike
 

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I have actually used car-part.com with much success, but keep in mind that they are only a referral service sort of thing. The people you really deal with are the individual salvage yards, so even though my experience was good, your results may differ.

It looks like your search was correct and the ebay part is also correct.


I'd drive right on over to Knox auto parts. At 8 miles away and a price 1/3 that of ebay, its an easy choice, especially when its supposed to be REALLY hot all week.

Search around the forum for radio or clock light replacement instructions. I'm pretty sure the first step of either is removal of the trim around the radio/CCU assembly. You could even remove the trim before driving to Knox, put in the new(used) part in the parking lot, and drive home with AC.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I replaced the ccu in the dash. I'm still getting no a/c. I'm also getting the same error on the unit. It's the bottom of the right 8 on a digital readout. The docs I found say it's code N.

I wonder if getting the freon charged would help?

Any other thoughts?

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Yes, looking at that post suggests it may only be the transistor that's gone bad.

Not clear why the CCU wouldn't turn on the compressor in this case, but I guess Honda really wants you to come get a new transistor from them to get your AC back.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The other post I found worked!!

I had to pay about $20 more for the part from the local dealer than I would have had I ordered it. But it's been 90+ here this week with no change in site, and my wife is pregnant, so she was really sensitive to the heat. The install took all of 15 minutes and we had cold air in the Ody again.

Thanks again for all the information.

Mike
 

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And now you can put your spare CCU on ebay for more than you paid for it :)
 

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I just experienced the same symptoms on my daughter's 2003. I followed the directions in Tideline's referenced post (and YouTube videos) to replace the failed temperature cutout. Follow the referenced thread to post #29 to get the link to the YouTube videos. Just over $10.00 to Digi-Key (2 of the part, thermal grease, and express shipping), and the AC works again.

A few notes on the process:

1. All six exposed screws have #2 Philips heads. The three larger ones that hold the unit into the air duct also have 8mm hex heads. A shallow 8mm socket and flex adapter will reach all three of them fairly easily. Removing the small Philips head screws with the unit in place will not help you remove it, they are difficult to access from this position, and quite easy to lose. 4mm x .75 mm thread, just in case you do.

2. The footwell carpet is an inch or so away from the firewall in this area. If the furthest screw is dropped (right most, forward most referenced to the vehicle) it will fall into this gap. (Don't ask how I found this tidbit.) Removing the passenger fusebox cover completely will allow you to peel back the carpet and recover the screw.

3. It is much easier to remove the connecter after the fan speed controller is in your hand.

4. I now have a happy daughter, as it's July in Florida and she'll be delivering my first grandchild in October.

Steve

2003 Ody (now belonging to my daughter
2009 Ody
2003 Pilot
 

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My air went out yesterday. I read this post and replaced the transistor. I have air again today. With the help of this forum and the posts above, I saved a lot of money. Thank you. Replacement is fairly easy. Three screws and an electrical connector. Pretty far back under the dash but other than that, a very straightforward replacement. Took about 15 minutes.
 

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Im having the same problem. The AC will not turn on and the front blower motor will not turn on in any setting. I changed the front blower motor and the resistor. Both are new. I still get the N code. I bypassed the AC Clutch relay and the AC turned on. There was cold air blowing from the rear motor blower but the front blower motor still was not turning on. Any ideas? Need help.
 

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Im having the same problem. The AC will not turn on and the front blower motor will not turn on in any setting. I changed the front blower motor and the resistor. Both are new. I still get the N code. I bypassed the AC Clutch relay and the AC turned on. There was cold air blowing from the rear motor blower but the front blower motor still was not turning on. Any ideas? Need help.
What year and trim level do you have? There is more to the system than just the blower motor and the resistor. It will take some testing and wiring diagram to determine the problem.
 
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