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Mwe2121 you're from Richland? I'm in Boardman, or, but I've lived in tri cities for like 35 years, most of my life. I will bet you $20 it's a bad spark plug on #3. Just a friendly wager, no feelings hurt if you don't want to. Actually it's more amusing to see how long this thread plays out til he finds it. I live 1.25 hours away from you
 

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All of my misfire codes have been due to bad coils (and a single bad coil can trigger every misfire code in the books). I would do a "balance test" to check for this before I would go to the trouble of adjusting the valves.
 

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Check the plastic underbody, wheel well, and air dam pieces. Maybe something's loose and that's what is causing your helicopter sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Sorry guys. I got a bit busy. As far as the EGR valve. I blasted compressed air down the port for the EGR valve at the top of the intake with the actual valve out to spray any build up that I could out. I am not 100% certain if there is a better way to clean that out unless I take more of the engine apart.

The spark plugs and coils I will look at potentially this weekend when I get some free time. I was also going to check out the timing belt and valve adjustments, I think that it needs to be done anyway and it might clear up some issues.
 

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You said they where replaced a year ago so I wouldn’t think they would be your issue. What brand of coils and plugs did you use?
 

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Sorry guys. I got a bit busy. As far as the EGR valve. I blasted compressed air down the port for the EGR valve at the top of the intake with the actual valve out to spray any build up that I could out. I am not 100% certain if there is a better way to clean that out unless I take more of the engine apart.

The spark plugs and coils I will look at potentially this weekend when I get some free time. I was also going to check out the timing belt and valve adjustments, I think that it needs to be done anyway and it might clear up some issues.
What I am trying to say is that you showed us the passages you cleaned on the lid, under that lid are the actual EGR ports, 6 holes, did you clean those? the EGR valve is something completely separate, you should clean that but did you clean the 6 EGR ports below the lid/ cover that you showed us? if you look at this video at 0:26 seconds into it, it shows you the 6 ports
 

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Thanks Eksine! You inspired me to check the ports on my 02. They were very similar in condition to the video.
I'd like to add, I would not advise adding sealant on the metal gasket as the video maker was contemplating. If the top is bolted firmly back on, the gasket should be good as is. I forgot to check for the torque value and seating sequence. From doing this on my 99 I'm remembering about 22ft/lbs, and tighten from the center outward.
I used a vacuum while cleaning out the ports on the engine. Used a screwdriver to clean out the passages on the cover followed up with a bit of carb cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You said they where replaced a year ago so I wouldn’t think they would be your issue. What brand of coils and plugs did you use?
mwe2121: I am not sure what brand was used. I can pull one out and double check.

What I am trying to say is that you showed us the passages you cleaned on the lid, under that lid are the actual EGR ports, 6 holes, did you clean those? the EGR valve is something completely separate, you should clean that but did you clean the 6 EGR ports below the lid/ cover that you showed us? if you look at this video at 0:26 seconds into it, it shows you the 6 ports
eksine: Yeah, I cleaned those out with a small screw driver to break up the buildup and a shop vac to suck it out. Sorry, I dont think I took pictures of that part.

Thanks Eksine! You inspired me to check the ports on my 02. They were very similar in condition to the video.
I'd like to add, I would not advise adding sealant on the metal gasket as the video maker was contemplating. If the top is bolted firmly back on, the gasket should be good as is. I forgot to check for the torque value and seating sequence. From doing this on my 99 I'm remembering about 22ft/lbs, and tighten from the center outward.
I used a vacuum while cleaning out the ports on the engine. Used a screwdriver to clean out the passages on the cover followed up with a bit of carb cleaner.
kernel: I did the same method. I did not tighten down to that ft/Ibs, I just did it by hand until it was snug though.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The sound that I am hearing from the LF area starts happening once I am over 5 mph. I have not taken anything apart but it sounds like the bearing the LF is out.
 

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I had a bad wheel bearing that I had my local shop confirm and repair for me. Had them do that since I had an upcoming Chicago-Atlanta-Tuscon-Chicago trip approaching. I also did a wheel swap, noise remained unchanged confirming my suspicion of the bad hub.
The other big issue to worry about is the timing belt if it's due for replacement. (it's not a timing chain) If you know the timing belt was done at around 200k, then you're still ok. But you say that you don't know if the timing belt was done- you might be on borrowed time!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I had a bad wheel bearing that I had my local shop confirm and repair for me. Had them do that since I had an upcoming Chicago-Atlanta-Tuscon-Chicago trip approaching. I also did a wheel swap, noise remained unchanged confirming my suspicion of the bad hub.
The other big issue to worry about is the timing belt if it's due for replacement. (it's not a timing chain) If you know the timing belt was done at around 200k, then you're still ok. But you say that you don't know if the timing belt was done- you might be on borrowed time!

What did that shop charge for doing the bearing?

Yeah Im thinking about doing the timing belt.
 

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My bill was $450. Stealership quoted $700.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I checked a few things and it seems like Cylinder 3 (Back of the engine drivers side), the coil and/or spark plug is faulty. I am going to look at replacing all of the coils and spark plugs since I am getting misfires on 3 cylinders now. Does anyone have the part number on hand for the correct spark plugs and coils for this car from Honda? If not I will check it out and see if I can find them.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I checked and the coil part number is: 30520-P8E-S01

The spark plug part number is: 98079-5514N

Can anyone confirm that these are still the correct part numbers. Also where is the best place to get OEM Honda parts online. Id rather not pay dealership prices.
 

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Confirm, those part #'s are correct. The OEM NGK plug # is PZFR5F-11.

Defer to someone who has used the online dealers to recommend one...

Dave
 

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you can get the spark plugs from any local retailer as long as get the NGK PZFR5F-11 (this is what the dealership sells anyways) and you can get hitachi IGC0055 ignition coils (they are the OEM ones) from any retailer as well. If you really want to get them from Honda I recommend majestic Honda for parts here is a link Majestic Honda Parts.

A side note I have read somewhere that the 03 used denso coils so you may want to research that some more.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Confirm, those part #'s are correct. The OEM NGK plug # is PZFR5F-11.

Defer to someone who has used the online dealers to recommend one...

Dave
Perfect. Thanks Dave
you can get the spark plugs from any local retailer as long as get the NGK PZFR5F-11 (this is what the dealership sells anyways) and you can get hitachi IGC0055 ignition coils (they are the OEM ones) from any retailer as well. If you really want to get them from Honda I recommend majestic Honda for parts here is a link Majestic Honda Parts.

A side note I have read somewhere that the 03 used denso coils so you may want to research that some more.
Good info. I looked on Majestic Honda and it looks like $75 per coil. Is that about normal for coils for Honda's?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Update

I went to a junk yard that had two Odyssey's. One of them which was a 2004 still had the engine in there. I grabbed all 6 of the coils out of the car which were Hitachi CM11-207A.


Then I replaced the one in Cylinder 3. In Cylinder 4 I tighten the spark plug which apparently was loose and put the coil back in place, and then on Cylinder 6 I replaced that coil.

Went to start it and it idled perfectly. I drove it around the block and no CEL came back on or flashed. I should be 100% in the engine department now.


Current Task

Now I am going to check out what is going on in the LF area. I am going to see if my idea that the LF bearing is going out is correct.
 
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