Honda Odyssey Forum banner

41 - 60 of 60 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
I know several members keep a spare coil in the glove compartment. Is the sound metallic up front? Does it change if you turn the left or right? Does it change if you lightly press the brakes? Is it any different in reverse? I don't think it is a tranny issue but to just verify, put the transmission in neutral while cruising at speed and see what the noise does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
I know several members keep a spare coil in the glove compartment. Is the sound metallic up front? Does it change if you turn the left or right? Does it change if you lightly press the brakes? Is it any different in reverse? I don't think it is a tranny issue but to just verify, put the transmission in neutral while cruising at speed and see what the noise does.

It does not change. Basically if the car is in motion 5 mph or higher it is making a noise. I have put the car in neutral and let it coast down the road and the noise was still there. I need to take the left front wheel off and look around and see. It’s not really metal on metal it’s more of a rubbing type sound that gets faster and faster and rhythm the faster you drive. I might drive and record it and post a video.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
I would jack the car up leave the wheel on and check for play by and spin the tire by hand to see if you can feel it catching before taking the tire off. When you get the tire off check to see if the inside and outside pad are wearing evenly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
It sounds like a wheel bearing noise to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
It's been awhile since I have done one on an Honda Odyssey but as long as you have a press it shouldn't be to bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,841 Posts
I checked and the coil part number is: 30520-P8E-S01

The spark plug part number is: 98079-5514N

Can anyone confirm that these are still the correct part numbers. Also where is the best place to get OEM Honda parts online. Id rather not pay dealership prices.
If you pay over $7/plug you are wasting money. I think Honda charges around $18/plug.
Go to the NGK site and look up the number if you want. ngk.com.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Thats what I am thinking. Is it easy to replace the bearing or should I just do the whole hub?
To do front wheel bearing, need to remove hub. Then use press to remove bearing from hub. Find someone who can press bearings out or get a press and adapters. Press old bearing off and new bearing on hub. Make sure to put the new bearing "pack seal side (metal color) toward the inside" as seen on page 18-14. See attachment. If it is bad wheel bearing, need to find which side.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Sorry guys. I got a bit busy there. I am looking at replacing the LF Hub since I do not have a press to just do the bearings. Where would you suggest I buy a HUB from online? Just ebay or something like that? I asked my parts guy I typically get stuff from and all he has apparently is just the bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
Sorry guys. I got a bit busy there. I am looking at replacing the LF Hub since I do not have a press to just do the bearings. Where would you suggest I buy a HUB from online? Just ebay or something like that? I asked my parts guy I typically get stuff from and all he has apparently is just the bearings.
you don't need a hydraulic press, on amazon search "wheel bearing kit", even if you get a new hub you have no way of pressing the bearing onto it. most people use an angle grinder to cut the old bearing hub off and reuse the hub if it's good. if you nick the hub it's still usable. I bought the ATD kit but it used to be cheaper. if you want a spare bolt mcmaster carr has some you can order, they also have the giant washers and the coupler nuts. I think you want at least a 8" or longer bolt, I forgot the thread size and pitch. search the videos on youtube to do it with the bearing kit instead of a press
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
you don't need a hydraulic press, on amazon search "wheel bearing kit", even if you get a new hub you have no way of pressing the bearing onto it. most people use an angle grinder to cut the old bearing hub off and reuse the hub if it's good. if you nick the hub it's still usable. I bought the ATD kit but it used to be cheaper. if you want a spare bolt mcmaster carr has some you can order, they also have the giant washers and the coupler nuts. I think you want at least a 8" or longer bolt, I forgot the thread size and pitch. search the videos on youtube to do it with the bearing kit instead of a press
I think I might be able to rent this from Autozone if it is what I am thinking of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
They should but I don't think they do. Harbor freight might actually sell that kit. But like I said on Amazon it's like $65 or something like that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
A bit of an update.....

I went ahead today and replaced the bearing. Pretty simple. I was not able to pull it out myself with a rented tool from Autozone but I had an alignment shop pull the old bearing a press the new one for $35. The car drives good now. No more noise going on from the LF.

One question, in the process I ripped the sensor wire for the counter on the drive shaft. That could does wheel speed and ABS and TC am I correct on this? The reason why I ask is because the bearing I put in is not meant to work with ABS but at the same time I figured it did not matter since the car picks up that from the counter. Am I right on this? I will try to go to the scrap yard tomorrow and get that same sensor and wire from a Odyssey that is in the yard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
firstly, I knew autozone didn't rent that tool, I looked it up when you said it, didn't want to bum you out. you have to buy that tool, but it's worth every cent, you have 4 bearings to do. if one went out the rest are not far behind, I compared them all and did them all at once. the grease is dried up in all of them anyways at this mileage, you could clean and regrease, but it's better to just replace them.
secondly there is no wire on the driveshaft, the speed sensor is attached to the hole in the knuckle right next to the hole for the driveshaft. the sensor I am positive does not get it's reading from the bearing. notice the flat thing on each end of the driveshaft that looks like a giant gear/ cog? that's a tone ring, the sensor reads it and converts it to an electromagnetic signal, I believe that's called electromagnetic induction. could be wrong, but I made a motor a really long time ago, I'm pretty sure that's what it is.
thirdly it is ALWAYS only a speed sensor, some parts diagram call them "abs sensor" that is in mechanical terms not possible. the speed sensor generates an electromagnetic signal from the tone ring through megnetic induction. a separate box is the ABS computer, it knows the front left wheel is spinning at say 300 rpm and the front right wheel is spinning at say 450 rpm, the computer knows the difference is a slip and controls the electric motor to modulate the brake fluid to control the 450 rpm slipping wheel. ABS, traction control, etc are control by this computer. now I didn't look any of that info up, but from common sense that is what I believe to be how it is. anyone can look this up to find out the real answer.
fourthly, can you not simply solder the broken points together? taking out the sensor is usually a huge pain, they're usually rusted real good in there.I got channel locks and massaged them back and forth carefully and grease the sensor and wire wheeled the hole larger. if you can solder in place that'd be great but try and see

A bit of an update.....

I went ahead today and replaced the bearing. Pretty simple. I was not able to pull it out myself with a rented tool from Autozone but I had an alignment shop pull the old bearing a press the new one for $35. The car drives good now. No more noise going on from the LF.

One question, in the process I ripped the sensor wire for the counter on the drive shaft. That could does wheel speed and ABS and TC am I correct on this? The reason why I ask is because the bearing I put in is not meant to work with ABS but at the same time I figured it did not matter since the car picks up that from the counter. Am I right on this? I will try to go to the scrap yard tomorrow and get that same sensor and wire from a Odyssey that is in the yard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
firstly, I knew autozone didn't rent that tool, I looked it up when you said it, didn't want to bum you out. you have to buy that tool, but it's worth every cent, you have 4 bearings to do. if one went out the rest are not far behind, I compared them all and did them all at once. the grease is dried up in all of them anyways at this mileage, you could clean and regrease, but it's better to just replace them.

No worries. The tool was a $200 rental tool that they had, it would have done the job but the issue was the impact gun I had did not put out enough torque to do it. The rest are quiet for now, I will see if that stays that way.

This tool: https://www.harborfreight.com/front-wheel-bearing-adapters-63728.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Higher+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+(6)+Price+$100-150|63728&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sbGGmYPqm|pcrid|278961614564|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|63728|&pgrid=59557298587&ptaid=pla-297256064760&pcid=1458484684&intent=Higher+Sale&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_o6Xx6OT5QIVAdvACh3r3QoBEAQYBCABEgKqwvD_BwE



secondly there is no wire on the driveshaft, the speed sensor is attached to the hole in the knuckle right next to the hole for the driveshaft. the sensor I am positive does not get it's reading from the bearing. notice the flat thing on each end of the driveshaft that looks like a giant gear/ cog? that's a tone ring, the sensor reads it and converts it to an electromagnetic signal, I believe that's called electromagnetic induction. could be wrong, but I made a motor a really long time ago, I'm pretty sure that's what it is.

I was referring to the counter on the driveshaft. Then that is just a speed sensor am I correct?

thirdly it is ALWAYS only a speed sensor, some parts diagram call them "abs sensor" that is in mechanical terms not possible. the speed sensor generates an electromagnetic signal from the tone ring through megnetic induction. a separate box is the ABS computer, it knows the front left wheel is spinning at say 300 rpm and the front right wheel is spinning at say 450 rpm, the computer knows the difference is a slip and controls the electric motor to modulate the brake fluid to control the 450 rpm slipping wheel. ABS, traction control, etc are control by this computer. now I didn't look any of that info up, but from common sense that is what I believe to be how it is. anyone can look this up to find out the real answer.

So if I were to put in a bearing that does not have ABS abilities then it would not work?

fourthly, can you not simply solder the broken points together? taking out the sensor is usually a huge pain, they're usually rusted real good in there.I got channel locks and massaged them back and forth carefully and grease the sensor and wire wheeled the hole larger. if you can solder in place that'd be great but try and see
I ripped the wires out directly from the sensor. The sensor is not able to be opened up it looks like. If it were I would be able to connect it back up no problem but it does not seem like it is meant to be opened up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
I just looked on ebay, you could try amazon too, they are super cheap. getting used parts at a junkyard is what I used to do, I don't think it's a good idea unless it's an engine or trans or a body part etc. but in this case I could be wrong. anyways that's another source for your parts. getting aftermarket body parts like fenders has been a bad experience for me so don't do that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
I just looked on ebay, you could try amazon too, they are super cheap. getting used parts at a junkyard is what I used to do, I don't think it's a good idea unless it's an engine or trans or a body part etc. but in this case I could be wrong. anyways that's another source for your parts. getting aftermarket body parts like fenders has been a bad experience for me so don't do that

Yea. I saw on ebay its like $12 for the sensor and wiring. Im going to give it a go at the junk yard since I can get it pretty quick and see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
I picked one up from the junk yard for $9 and resolved the ABS and TC issues. Everything seems like it is working correctly now.
 
41 - 60 of 60 Posts
Top