Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Our Ody with 120000m started occasional hesitation or shift issues from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd about 2 months ago. No check engine lights. We have owned this since 2002 and live near Dallas TX. Initially thought bad gas might have caused it. Usually wife or daughter drive this and It didn’t happen when I drove. Any way I cleaned MAF sensor and intake manifold valves and I was told it was back to normal shifting.

Last week I drove it for 25 miles at 75mph and it shifted very hard after that (1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd). Again no lights. Fuel was low and I added fuel system cleaner with gas fill-up. Wife drove short distances with no issues for 10days. Yesterday she had to get on freeway and when she got off and it started hard shifting after a stop and all lights came on (D flashing and check engine light). She was able to drive through city lights. She said gas was low (no low fuel light) and I asked her to fillup. When she came home I checked code and it was P1750 (shift solenoid A). I cleared and check engine light has not come back.

It was due for atf change and I did that this morning. Drained atf was still reddish and no burnt smell. Plug magnet had small amount metal. I think though that atf fluid was not changed since 45000m looking through records although I believe dealer changed it during a recall. I will drain and fill atf (valvoline maxlife full syn atf) again after couple of hundred miles. If it happens again I will replace shift solenoids near starter.

Can you all comment on what could be happening and what I should do. I have read and watched posts and videos on ody tranny issues but couldn’t find much related to P1750. Thanks a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
469 Posts
Might be time for tranny rebuild. Find a good, recommended, independent mechanic. Dealer's too expensive.
I assume, this is original Tranny. (not rebuilt yet).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Might be time for tranny rebuild. Find a good, recommended, independent mechanic. Dealer's too expensive.
I assume, this is original Tranny. (not rebuilt yet).
Yes. It is the original tranny and solenoids. What can I expect to pay at independent mechanic. Any suggestions around Dallas? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
I wouldn't jump straight to the tranny needs to be rebuilt. The code indicates a Mechanical Problem in Hydraulic Control System of A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valves A and B, or Problem in the Hydraulic Control System. There are several threads on here regarding cleaning the solenoids and screens and even testing the solenoids which is where I would start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
469 Posts
On my 2001, (4 speed), yours is a (5 speed), I paid around $2700 for 3rd rebuild. $1900 for 4th rebuild.
San Francisco Bay area. 4th re-builder, charged less, because he did the take out, install, and rebuild himself.
I learned most Dealers/and independents, Will remove the tranny. Sub-in out to tranny re builders, then re-install the tranny. You have to ask around to find a good independent. You could ask, your own mechanic, who he/she
recommends.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
You can try ebay. I did last Dec. and got a remanufactured that's dyno tested with 2 years warranty. Installed it myself in my garage and so far so good. @6K+ miles so far. Local shops that rebuild your tranny only gives 1 year warranty and no dyno testing done. Usually cost around 2K. Mine cost $1500 OTD ($400 freight from east coast). You can find a local shop that will remove and install for about 4-5 bills then have the ebay tranny shipped to their shop. You also need to add the honda fluid cost and maybe motor mounts. You can get those from ebay(cheapest place I think) and give it to the installer. Good luck.

Here is my tranny swap notes....https://www.odyclub.com/threads/new-how-to-remove-transmission-video-coming-step-by-step.349635/page-3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
When considering a major investment like doing an AT repair and upgrading with a cooler, etc., to see if it's a good financial decision, it's good to compare to what you could get buying a similar car.

For example, my '99 with dealer replaced AT, running perfectly, AT cooler, no problems at all, is currently for sale on craigslist for less than $3k. I expect that there is no way to repair a van with a broken AT to a similar condition as mine for less than the price I'm selling for.

No, I'm not trying to sell anyone my car; just saying to consider the option of buying a new used car. Usually the argument to repair is made based on comparing cost of repair vs. cost of buying a new car, but clearly that is a very different comparison.

And there are probably some people out there who have the skills / time / tools / experience to do a rebuild efficiently, and would gladly pay you some $$ for your not-completely-worthless broken car. But just because it may be worth it for them to repair it does not mean it makes sense for you or me to do so, either DIY or paying a pro to do it.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Our Ody with 120000m started occasional hesitation or shift issues from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd about 2 months ago. No check engine lights. We have owned this since 2002 and live near Dallas TX. Initially thought bad gas might have caused it. Usually wife or daughter drive this and It didn’t happen when I drove. Any way I cleaned MAF sensor and intake manifold valves and I was told it was back to normal shifting.

Last week I drove it for 25 miles at 75mph and it shifted very hard after that (1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd). Again no lights. Fuel was low and I added fuel system cleaner with gas fill-up. Wife drove short distances with no issues for 10days. Yesterday she had to get on freeway and when she got off and it started hard shifting after a stop and all lights came on (D flashing and check engine light). She was able to drive through city lights. She said gas was low (no low fuel light) and I asked her to fillup. When she came home I checked code and it was P1750 (shift solenoid A). I cleared and check engine light has not come back.

It was due for atf change and I did that this morning. Drained atf was still reddish and no burnt smell. Plug magnet had small amount metal. I think though that atf fluid was not changed since 45000m looking through records although I believe dealer changed it during a recall. I will drain and fill atf (valvoline maxlife full syn atf) again after couple of hundred miles. If it happens again I will replace shift solenoids near starter.

Can you all comment on what could be happening and what I should do. I have read and watched posts and videos on ody tranny issues but couldn’t find much related to P1750. Thanks a lot.
Talk to Eddie at North Dallas Imports on Forest Lane. Tell him I referred you, or buy my ‘03 Ody that’s already had the tranny! Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
953 Posts
Or we can do a little diagnostics before having someone run out and spend $3K.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks
When considering a major investment like doing an AT repair and upgrading with a cooler, etc., to see if it's a good financial decision, it's good to compare to what you could get buying a similar car.

For example, my '99 with dealer replaced AT, running perfectly, AT cooler, no problems at all, is currently for sale on craigslist for less than $3k. I expect that there is no way to repair a van with a broken AT to a similar condition as mine for less than the price I'm selling for.

No, I'm not trying to sell anyone my car; just saying to consider the option of buying a new used car. Usually the argument to repair is made based on comparing cost of repair vs. cost of buying a new car, but clearly that is a very different comparison.

And there are probably some people out there who have the skills / time / tools / experience to do a rebuild efficiently, and would gladly pay you some $$ for your not-completely-worthless broken car. But just because it may be worth it for them to repair it does not mean it makes sense for you or me to do so, either DIY or paying a pro to do it.

Good luck.
Valid & good points. Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I would remove the A and B Lockup Solenoid, clean the restrainer and do a drain and fill. Hope this will solve the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,536 Posts
Three drain & fills in 120k is not the way to care for an Ody transmission. I would do two more drain & fills on subsequent weekends at least. And pray.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
My 2000 Ody, I cleaned the lockup solenoid, added a transmission cooler and did my 3X drain and fill with Valvoline Maxlife ATF every 30K miles. It solved the hesitation hiccups from 1st to 2nd gear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Concur with those saying triple ATF change (say a week apart).

IF you have a valving problem due to built up junk (shavings, scrapings, clutch mat’l), this will help. It’ll also dissolve some of the varnish.

If you have a strictly mechanical problem or a clutch or two is shot, then you’ve spent <$150 & 3 weeks waiting (and a couple of hours in garage).

Now, IF you need a rebuild, do NOT base your decision on the market value of the car. Decide based on the various costs of getting reliable transportation. You know your car... and if dumping $2700 into a tranny makes it reliable transport, compare that to each of your other options. FWIW my experience is you can buy a fairly decent $5k car... but you’ll spend a grand or two getting it up to snuff. You wanna ride to work & the grocery - what’s the lowest cost you can reliably get that for? That’s the right question.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
hesitation.
do check also integrity of the distributor, instead of solely looking at various possibilities with the tranny. You have done a decent job of upkeeping the tranny.

good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I bought my 2000 Odyssey, used, back in 2010 with about 145000 on the clock. I paid $3000. It was in pretty good overall condition, with just minor cosmetic and accessory issues, which I’ve fixed myself. Very happy with the car.

However, the cad did have the same shifting issues you describe. The shifts 1-2 were extremely hard and noisy. 2-3 a bit less. Above 3 okay.

The only reason I proceeded with the sale was I knew the salesman and I got a signed note saying they would put in a rebuilt transmission if the one I bought quit inside a year. Not a bad arrangement.

So, I drove the car for a year ‘as is’ and it clunked and clanked a lot but kept on going all over the Pacific Northwest and BC, with one trip to Florida in the summer, pulling a small U-Haul trailer, with no breakdowns.

Not knowing much about transmissions I decided to see what I could do to fix this noisy and very clunky transmission. I got a pair of ramps, some crush washers, an oil tray and a funnel off eBay and a case of the proper Honda transmission fluid at Amazon and proceeded to change the fluid.

The drained fluid was totally black, like ship bunker fuel, and smelled like burned straw. Wanted two days for complete drainage. I then put the plug back in, added 3.5 quarts of the Honda fluid and a half quart of paint thinner, and drove about 60 miles at moderate speed in the local hills and mountains. Did another drain. This time the fluid was just a bit dark, much cleaner looking, but with lots of visible little oily ‘clots’ and dark particles. But during the driving the shifts were way smoother.

Waited a full day for full drainage then topped up with four more quarts of the correct Honda fluid and closed her up.

From then in the shifts have been mostly silky smooth and I’m at 210000 and no obvious issues. I’m in no doubt that while my tranny must be damaged and work; the point it’s running great. I now do my own tranny fluid changes on my birthday every even numbered year using ONLY HONDA BRAND FLUID.

I’m also in no doubt that when I bought the car 10 years ago;

A) it had not had proper tranny servicing for a long while and had been ridden very hard - I drive it very gently

B) it did not have proper approved Honda fluid in the tranny - most likely had whatever was available at that time

Obviously my now nineteen year old 210000 tranny could blow up any time, but since I only have $3000 in the deal from 10 years ago I’m none too concerned...but the way it’s running I might get another nineteen years out of it😁 Or not😫
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,837 Posts
The 2000 Ody holds 8.3 qts so no matter how long you let it drain, you will still have over 4 qts of old atf in your tranny. So, you still had that paint thinner in there and it seemed to have worked for you.
You lucked out in that the paint thinner didn't dislodge some clumps that clogged tiny passageways and cause a necessary rebuild.
You gambled and came out smelling like a rose. That was a great outcome.

Buffalo4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
See:
also Service Bulletin 04-021,
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2002–03 Odyssey: ALL
2004 Odyssey: From VIN 5FNRL18..4B000001 thru
5FNRL18..4B051620
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Our Ody with 120000m started occasional hesitation or shift issues from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd about 2 months ago. No check engine lights. We have owned this since 2002 and live near Dallas TX. Initially thought bad gas might have caused it. Usually wife or daughter drive this and It didn’t happen when I drove. Any way I cleaned MAF sensor and intake manifold valves and I was told it was back to normal shifting.

Last week I drove it for 25 miles at 75mph and it shifted very hard after that (1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd). Again no lights. Fuel was low and I added fuel system cleaner with gas fill-up. Wife drove short distances with no issues for 10days. Yesterday she had to get on freeway and when she got off and it started hard shifting after a stop and all lights came on (D flashing and check engine light). She was able to drive through city lights. She said gas was low (no low fuel light) and I asked her to fillup. When she came home I checked code and it was P1750 (shift solenoid A). I cleared and check engine light has not come back.

It was due for atf change and I did that this morning. Drained atf was still reddish and no burnt smell. Plug magnet had small amount metal. I think though that atf fluid was not changed since 45000m looking through records although I believe dealer changed it during a recall. I will drain and fill atf (valvoline maxlife full syn atf) again after couple of hundred miles. If it happens again I will replace shift solenoids near starter.

Can you all comment on what could be happening and what I should do. I have read and watched posts and videos on ody tranny issues but couldn’t find much related to P1750. Thanks a lot.

I have a 2000 Ody with 205000 miles. My tranny started acting very similar to your problem back at 150K. I flushed ALL the fluid out of the transmission using a technique (from the internet of course) where you displace the return line to the tranny in a catch bucket. First you drain the 3.5 quarts that will come out and refill with Honda fluid. From there you pump out as you fill (rapidly) till it is only clean fluid being displaced. I believe I went through a total of 12 quarts doing it. After a couple of days my symptoms disappeared. I now drain and refill th 3.5 quarts or so every oil change. YES that is expensive but not like putting a 3000 dollar tranny in a 3000 dollar car. I also added a tranny cooler after It started functioning well. I also had this exact experience with my 2000 V6 Accord. Same symptoms, Same cure. That car will very rarely (maybe once a year) will try to act up but it has always gone away. It has over 240K on the original tranny. So I would advise to try multiple changes, if you do not want to hassle with the flush procedure, to see if it will work for you. My experience has all been with Honda fluid so I can't speak to the performance other brands.
Good Luck
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top