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Hey there. This is my first time posting but I have been reading through here a bit. We have a 2004 EX-L with less than 64,000 miles on it, and we are the original owners. The car is in great shape, and we follow the maintenance schedule to the letter.

On a recent trip we noticed that the cruise control no longer was working. When you push the "Cruise" button under the "TCS Off" button, the light would go on, but nothing would show up on the dash display itself, and the cruise would not engage using the steering wheel controls. We also noticed that the clock light no longer works (but the clock) still works.

We just had our independent mechanic look at it, and they said the fuses all worked and that the leads to cruise control module all were good and that power was getting to the module. Their best guess (without pulling everything apart) was that the module and/or the actuator would need to be replaced) but they wouldn't know for sure unless they pulled it all apart. They said that the approximate price if the module had to be replaced would be around $400 and if for some reason both the module and the actuator had to be replaced it would be around $800.

So, my question is, is this a common occurrence as well, and something worth pursuing with Honda (to see if they would kick in something), or is this just one of those things that goes with cars and I should just decide whether I can live with it or not? I have plans to keep this car for a long time give that it is well maintained, has low mileage and is paid for, but things like this always give me pause. (I also have a 2006 Honda Accord that now has the SRS airbag light go on, but only when the temperature is below 32 degrees.) We also have had to replace one of the rear window motors a few years ago (a common occurrence I am finding out here) and a belt tensioner at one point.

Any suggestions are appreciated!
 

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Clock light bulb out, search on how to change bulb.

For the cruise, I would check the brake switch. Cruise module very rare to fail. If the brake switch is not working right or is not adjusted properly the cruise will not work.
 

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Thanks for the good advice! I found the link to the light bulb replacement, and will give that a try. Hopefully there is little chance of messing something up along the way.

It's funny that you mentioned the brake switch. My wife drove the car home from the shop on Friday, and then on Saturday I went out to the car after reading a few things here, and unplugged and then plugged back in the brake switch just to make sure that it was connected properly. I then started the car and noticed a much louder "pop" when I pressed the brakes in park than before. You also can feel the pop if you put your hand on top of the steering column and push the brakes. The pop goes away as soon as you shift the car into gear. I don't know if this was like this after the shop looked at it or not, or if it happened after I checked the connection. Either way, I ran it by the shop and they heard the noise and agreed it was pretty loud, but they checked the brake switch and said that everything was working okay. They said that the noise was most likely coming from the solenoid in the steering column, and that it should not be impacting the cruise control. They said that I could replace the solenoid, but that there was no gaurantee that it would be quieter.

Any other suggestions? When you mentioned "adjusting" the brake switch, what is involved with that, and is that something that would be worth looking into?

Thanks!
 

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In my Civic the clockspring behind the steering wheel broke. I lost cruise, the horn and the airbag light came on, also happened in my Jeep. You could hear the wires when turning the wheel lock to lock. Just something to think about. I think there's a procedure in the repair manual that tells you how to measure voltage coming from the buttons on the wheel going into the cruise module.
 

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If the horn works, then it is not the clock spring. Also, on the Ody, the SRS light would be on to indicate an open circuit if there was a broken wire.
Back to the brake switch for the OP. Disconnect the connector and stick a paper clip or cotter pin across the two terminals of the wire harness pins. Tape the clip in place if you havae to. drive and try cruise, if it works then you know you have a bad or misdajusted brake switch. Do you have working brake lights?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the suggestion of using a paperclip to see if the cruise control will work. Dumb question, but is there any chance of messing something up by disconnecting the connector and trying this? We are heading on vacation in a few days, and blowing something up last minute probably would not be a good move! I may wait until we get back to try.

The brakes lights all work fine.
 

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question,,,, are any of the other controls on the steering wheel(volume controls) acting funny or inoperative?
 

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well if thats the case, the cruise indicator light at the switch is on, then something is keeping your cruise from engaging. only things i can think of would be your brake switch at the pedal. it might me misadjusted to make the car think that your applying the brake. this would cause the cruise to not engage or dissengage when the cruise is on. at the same time, this missadjustment would also cause you to not be able to shift into gear from park when your stopped. im not sure if you could have one issue without the other though.
 

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Symptom Cruise control cannot be set
Diagnostic procedure
1. Check main switch
2. Check SET/RESUME/CANCEL switch
3. Check brake pedal position switch and mounting
4. Check transmission range switch
5. Check cruise control unit inputs
6. Check cruise control actuator
Also check for
Poor ground: G101, G501
Open circuit, loose or disconnected terminals: BLK/YEL, LT GRN, LT GRN/RED, GRY, LT BLU, BLU/WHT, BLK, Cable reel
 
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