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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed my front pads with Honda OEM pads today. Changed out the retaining clips and used the grease that came with them. Went very well – someone said it took 10 min per brake; mine took about ½ hour per brake plus add time to jack and mount tires – overall about 2 hours for a first time brake pad changer. Thanks for all the excellent posts on brake DIY. Not going to replace my rear for a while since even the front pads had about half left (but I was hearing a squeak hence the change). Rotors looked good, so just cleaned them all with brake cleaners.

I am going to bleed my brakes though soon. Do I have to use Honda DOT 3 fluid since the manual says use Honda DOT3? What is the correct order of bleeding (I heard it is from the farthest to the shortest to the master cylinder)? I am planning on getting the brake bleeder pump from Harbor freight. Is there anything else that is better for this job?
 

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That was my project for today as well on my wife's 04 Odyssey. I've had the OEM pads for several months, however I heard the wear indicator yesterday, just barely and thought it was time to replace the pads. The inner pads were worn down pretty good on both sides.

This time I removed, cleaned and greased the caliper pins and replaced the caliper pin boots. O'Reilly's was able to order the boots by themselves without me having to buy the an entire caliper overhaul kit like Honda requires you to do.
 

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This time I removed, cleaned and greased the caliper pins and replaced the caliper pin boots. O'Reilly's was able to order the boots by themselves without me having to buy the an entire caliper overhaul kit like Honda requires you to do.
Good job! Honda recommends greasing the pins and replacing the caliper pin boots whenever you change the pads. I wonder how many garages do so?!

But as you said, Honda sells the boots only as part of a kit - $37 per side in Canada. They do however sell the bleeder caps separately. No consistency.

Has anyone found a supplier in Canada that sells the boots separately?
 

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Thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the tips. I am going to bleed my brakes though soon.

Do I have to use Honda DOT 3 fluid since the manual says use Honda DOT3?

I am planning on getting the brake bleeder pump from Harbor freight. Is there anything else that is better for this job?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
oops, hit the post button too soon.

how much brake fluid do I need for bleeding the brakes and what is the capacity of the master cylinder and the lines?
 

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I use Valvoline Syntech Brake Fluid in all my vehicles. Takes about two of the small containers of brake fluid, maybe three if it is very dirty.
 

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Do I have to use Honda DOT 3 fluid since the manual says use Honda DOT3?
No, any good quality brake fluid is fine. DOT 4 is better than DOT 3 (higher boiling point) and DOT 5.1 (not DOT 5) is even better (even higher boiling point plus made for ABS systems). I have no idea why Honda still specifies DOT 3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hi all,

I am planning on getting the brake bleeder pump from Harbor freight. Is there anything else that is better for this job? will this even work?
 

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No, any good quality brake fluid is fine. DOT 4 is better than DOT 3 (higher boiling point) and DOT 5.1 (not DOT 5) is even better (even higher boiling point plus made for ABS systems). I have no idea why Honda still specifies DOT 3.
I have read that DOT4 fluid has a more stable and higher boiling point than DOT3 and is less prone to absorbing moisture, but once it does absorb moisture, its boiling point falls off more rapidly than DOT3 fluid.
 

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I have read that DOT4 fluid has a more stable and higher boiling point than DOT3 and is less prone to absorbing moisture, but once it does absorb moisture, its boiling point falls off more rapidly than DOT3 fluid.
Interesting. So a DOT 3 fluid would last longer, although at a lower boiling point. That could explain why Honda specs DOT 3. The trend today is toward less routine maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i will get the DOT 3 then. since i am not getting any replies on bleed pumps, i will probably go with the two man job and pump it out.
 

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i will get the DOT 3 then. since i am not getting any replies on bleed pumps, i will probably go with the two man job and pump it out.
I think that is a good choice. Just remember not to let the pedal pumper push the pedal all the way to the floor while bleeding it. Some folks put a block under the pedal to prevent that.

The two people method is cheap and easy, as long as the bleeder valves work good.

Buffalo4

PS: Be sure and empty out the reservoir as much as you can (turkey baster type tool) and fill it with fresh brake fluid before bleeding. Watch it closely so that it doesn't get too low during the bleeding operation.
 

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I use Valvoline Syntech Brake Fluid in all my vehicles. Takes about two of the small containers of brake fluid, maybe three if it is very dirty.
I flushed the brake lines today with the help of my wife. It took two pints of DOT3 to flush the lines and a little bit of a third pint to top-off the master cylinder. The old fluid looked pretty nasty. I've bled the brakes before, but this was the first time I flushed the system; it was really simple to do. :)
 

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I bought a Mityvac 6830 to flush the system. It's a nice piece of hardare. I used it to suck out the master cyl reservoir w/ no probs.. Now I've hooked it to the first bleed valve and can't get any fluid out. The nipple isn't plugged, though when I removed it to check it, no fluid came out the hole. Going out now to continue checking.
 

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iyung, what is the difference between flushing and bleeding the system?
I consider flushing an extension of bleeding, the same technique is used for both. Bleeding just dumps enough brake fluid to eliminate air in the lines.

Flushing continues dumping the fluid in all four lines (one at a time) until new/fresh fluid fills the system. You start by removing some brake fluid from the master cylinder and topping off with fresh brake fluid. As you bleed the lines you have to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't run dry, which will allow air into the system.
 
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