Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey Touring a little over 218k miles. I was driving on the highway and smelt something that smelled like gas, not automobile gas but some type of compressed gas. Eventually I noticed that my rpm's were going up pretty high then I started slowing down even though I was giving it gas. When it dropped down to 40 mph I Pulled over and shut it off to let it cool down. When I went to start it up again the engine started but when I put it in drive it wouldn't move forward or in reverse.I waited about 20 minutes and then tried it again; it would drive forward but slowly and the front of the car (probably the transmission) sounded funny. So I pulled over again. I ended up getting towed home. There was a small very light puddle of transmission fluid toward the front of the car passenger side (and evidence under the hood as well as the cars undercarriage of a leak) so I dabbed some of it from the puddle with a tissue and smelled it and it didn't smell burnt, I rubbed it between my fingers and I didn't feel any bits of medal or anything. I have no indication of ANY problem on the dash display, no check engine light, no transmission light, I checked the dtc's and here are the results: No stored trouble codes, no permanent trouble codes but;

Pending Trouble Codes

DTC Description ECU

P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance/Stuck Off $09
P0302. Cylinder Misfire Detected $09
P0303 Cylinder Misfire Detected $09
P0304 Cylinder Misfire Detected $09
P0305. Cylinder Misfire Detected $09
P0306. Cylinder Misfire Detected $09
P0300. Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected $09

I had gotten the one code P0471 a few weeks ago, I shut the engine down and let it cool down for awhile. I then started it up again and cleared the codes and everything was fine. Then today this.

I've looked around online and it seems like I either have dirty or contaminated transmission fluid or a dirty or bad torque converter clutch solenoid.

My plan at this point is to go to the dealership and get some Honda transmission fluid, fill it to capacity and then see if that makes a difference.

Any help in the area will be greatly appreciated since after paying over $400.00 to get towed home if draining (assuming it didn't all leak out); the transmission fluid out and inspecting it and then refilling it doesn't solve the problem I will be forced to either pay to have it towed to a shop and then get raped with no vaseline. Or pay someone (who may or may not actually know what they are talking about) to come out and look at it and diagnose it at my house. One of my friends suggested going to the pull a part and pulling a torque converter clutch solenoid off a junked car and testing it for resistance with a multimeter and then installing that and see if that solves the problem...

Thanks for reading this..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,918 Posts
It could be the TCC solenoid, but it could be deeper than that. Get ahold of the test specs to diagnose it (after you replace the lost ATF). (I wouldn't assume a junkyard part is okay.)

What was the source of the ATF leak?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It could be the TCC solenoid, but it could be deeper than that. Get ahold of the test specs to diagnose it (after you replace the lost ATF). (I wouldn't assume a junkyard part is okay.)

What was the source of the ATF leak?
don’t know the source of the leak. At this point I’m going to drain and refill the transmission fluid. This morning I checked the codes again after letting it sit overnight, got the P0741 code as a pending code. Cleared the code then checked again no codes.

I read somewhere that removing and cleaning the torque converter clutch solenoid could clear up the whole “stuck off”. What do you think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,122 Posts
DTC P0741: Torque Converter Clutch Hydraulic Circuit Stuck OFF

NOTE:
Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information before you troubleshoot.

1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
3. Drain the ATF through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material.
Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material?
YES-Replace the transmission.
NO-Replace the ATF, then go to step 4.
4. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
5. Choose Lockup Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the torque converter clutch solenoid valve operates with the HDS.
Is a clicking sound heard?
YES-Go to step 6.
NO-Replace torque converter clutch solenoid valve, then go to step 10.
6. Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS.
Is the system OK?
YES-Go to step 7.
NO-Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the tester result. Go to step 10 if any part is replaced.
7. Run the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches 176°F (80°C).
8. Test-drive the vehicle at 55 mph (88 km/h) for 2 minutes while monitoring the vehicle speed with the HDS.
9. Monitor the OBD status for P0741 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail.
Does the result indicate a fail?
YES-Repair the faulty torque converter clutch mechanism, torque converter clutch hydraulic circuit, lock-up shift valve, or lock-up control valve, or replace the transmission.
NO-Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETE, return to step 8 and recheck.
10. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
11. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data.
12. Monitor the OBD status for P0741 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail.
Does the result indicate a pass?
YES-The problem has been corrected.
NO-Return to step 5 and recheck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
DTC P0741: Torque Converter Clutch Hydraulic Circuit Stuck OFF

NOTE:
Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information before you troubleshoot.

1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
2. Make sure that the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
3. Drain the ATF through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material.
Does the strainer have metal debris or excessive clutch material?
YES-Replace the transmission.
NO-Replace the ATF, then go to step 4.
4. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
5. Choose Lockup Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the torque converter clutch solenoid valve operates with the HDS.
Is a clicking sound heard?
YES-Go to step 6.
NO-Replace torque converter clutch solenoid valve, then go to step 10.
6. Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HDS.
Is the system OK?
YES-Go to step 7.
NO-Follow instructions indicated on the HDS by the tester result. Go to step 10 if any part is replaced.
7. Run the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches 176°F (80°C).
8. Test-drive the vehicle at 55 mph (88 km/h) for 2 minutes while monitoring the vehicle speed with the HDS.
9. Monitor the OBD status for P0741 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail.
Does the result indicate a fail?
YES-Repair the faulty torque converter clutch mechanism, torque converter clutch hydraulic circuit, lock-up shift valve, or lock-up control valve, or replace the transmission.
NO-Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETE, return to step 8 and recheck.
10. Clear the DTC with the HDS.
11. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data.
12. Monitor the OBD status for P0741 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail.
Does the result indicate a pass?
YES-The problem has been corrected.
NO-Return to step 5 and recheck.
What I use to check my codes is a Bluetooth obd module and a computer program called scan xl with a laptop. I’m not sure if it provides the Tests that you indicated, but when I get back home I will spend some time going through the list of tests and see which ones are or aren’t provided by scan xl. The program is made by Palmer engineering.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
What I use to check my codes is a Bluetooth obd module and a computer program called scan xl with a laptop. I’m not sure if it provides the Tests that you indicated, but when I get back home I will spend some time going through the list of tests and see which ones are or aren’t provided by scan xl. The program is made by Palmer engineering.
One thing I forgot to mention before is that it’s still idling high..
 

·
Registered
2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
Joined
·
629 Posts
Maybe related to the misfire codes? Since your Ody is a Touring it has VCM and if you never disabled it, if there is a misfire that could be the cause of it. So you could very well have two separate issues here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,122 Posts
What I use to check my codes is a Bluetooth obd module and a computer program called scan xl with a laptop. I’m not sure if it provides the Tests that you indicated, but when I get back home I will spend some time going through the list of tests and see which ones are or aren’t provided by scan xl. The program is made by Palmer engineering.
The HDS is the Honda Diagnostic System. It's just the factory Honda scan tool. You need something with bidirectional capabilities in order to activate outputs like the TCC solenoids. If it's just a solenoid with two terminals you can unplug the connector and put 12v on it yourself and see if it clicks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,122 Posts
One thing I forgot to mention before is that it’s still idling high..
Did you clean the throttle body? If so, once again you need a bidirectional scan tool to reset the throttle position data in order for it to relearn the idle.

We haven't even gotten into the misfires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Maybe related to the misfire codes? Since your Ody is a Touring it has VCM and if you never disabled it, if there is a misfire that could be the cause of it. So you could very well have two separate issues here.
At one point I did install one of those vcm tuners..
The eco light would still come on whether I was on the highway or not..

I had a guy come out today and hook up a scanner he told me the transmission was gone and had Be replaced.Damn shame because everything else (except the factory alarm and engine immobilizer) work fine. As of right now, when I start her up and put her in drive she’ll go forward but won’t move in reverse. When I drained the transmission fluid I did see a bunch or tiny shards of metal stuck to the magnet atop the drain plug. I filled it back up with fresh transmission fluid .

At this point I’m thinking I’m not willing to pour any more money into this; I already took a bunch of pics and I’ll be posting it for sale on Craigslist and maybe offerup.
Thanks for your assistance and thoughtful insight..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,122 Posts
Did you at least put fluid in it and try it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Did you at least put fluid in it and try it?
Yes sir I did, I brought 8 quarts of transmission fluid from the Honda dealership in Snellville ; drained the fluid (it was black like old engine oil) I then added the new transmission fluid. End result I started it up and put it in drive it would move forward but not in reverse; still idling high even after reaching operating temperature when it would ordinarily idle down.
I’ve just finished posting it for sale on Craigslist and offerup. Thanks again.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top