Re: 2005 Ody Right Side sliding door latch
NOTE: I had to replace the centre roller assembly as well.
The problem is in the door closer itself at the rear side of the door. I took a couple of photos to show what I did.
Take off all the interior panels, the plastic seal sheet, etc. You want to have all the inside nubbins exposed.
Remove the rear door closer assembly. (Turn OFF the power switch on the dash but be forwarned, there is STILL power on the door closer assembly.
To remove the door closer, take out three bolts on the back face of the door where the "catch" is.. And, another two gold coloured bolts on the inside of the door above where the closer motor itself is.
It's a bit fiddly but work the assembly around until you can pull it out through the large hole in the inside door skin. (Detach cable/wiring clips as necessary.
On the "back" of the closer is a plastic cover. Remove it. There are two small #1 phillips screws holding it on along with some "tape" on the top. When you have it off, it should look like the "Door Closer" photo attached.
Now, look at the end where the catch assembly is and look at photo "Door Closer 2". The piece inside the red circle SHOULD pivot. It's probably seized even though there is no sign of rust and there is lots of grease on it.
That piece does two things. It mechanically latches the catch when the door is shut and also activates the blue microswitch to reverse the door closer motor after it's latched the door. With it seized, it does NEITHER. And the door does exactly what you described.
Use a pair of needle nose pliers and some WD40 and losen that piece up so it pivots properly. It should be sitting as you see it in the picture when released. (It will be stuck well away from that position if it's seized like mine was.) Once you've got it loose spray in some lithium or other grease to keep it loose. (The WD40 will dry out)
If you're careful, you can test it by using a small screwdriver to push the latch the way the "U" catch on the body will. When you get to a certain point, the motor will activate, pull the catch shut and immediately reverse back to it's resting position. If you pull on the inside release handle, the catch should release.
Reverse the above steps to reassemble the door closer, plastic cover, etc. It's a bit fidgety getting the closer back into the door because of the window channel. You'll have to push the channel towards toe outside of the door to get the closer motor past it. Don't push to hard. You don't want to bend it.
Once assembled, your door should close properly.
The dealer tells me they "know" about this problem but won't just fix it because Honda has told them to replace the unit outright. Apparently the replacement part is "improved"..... sounds like a recall that never happened. The door closer motor assembly is over $400 by itself. I'll stick with the fix thanks.
Hope this helps.
I just ran into the same problem. After a $1,000+ estimate at the dealers I decided to look at it myself.Valaur said:After closing the sliding door, the servomotor locks the door, but then 3 seconds later reverses and unlocks the door. Door open light comes on in the dashboard. Problem only with passenger side, driver side works OK. Tried with remote, automatic, and manual operation, always with the same result. Started pulling fuses trying to isolate the servomotor for the latch. #3(40amp)under the hood,#8(20 amp)passenger side,#13(7.5amp)and #7(7.5amp) driver side fuse boxes. Only #7 turned off the servomotor, and various other functions (automatic and remote door locking/unlocking, some instrument panel lights, etc). Present situation: close sliding door, wait until door locks, quickly pull #7 fuse before door unlocks. Pull #3 and #8 and then replace #7. If #7 is replaced before #3 and #8 are replaced, the door will unlock. Thus presently everything works except the passenger sliding door, with fuses #3 and #8 removed.
Where does the signal to unlatch the door come from ? and why ?
Valaur
NOTE: I had to replace the centre roller assembly as well.
The problem is in the door closer itself at the rear side of the door. I took a couple of photos to show what I did.
Take off all the interior panels, the plastic seal sheet, etc. You want to have all the inside nubbins exposed.
Remove the rear door closer assembly. (Turn OFF the power switch on the dash but be forwarned, there is STILL power on the door closer assembly.
To remove the door closer, take out three bolts on the back face of the door where the "catch" is.. And, another two gold coloured bolts on the inside of the door above where the closer motor itself is.
It's a bit fiddly but work the assembly around until you can pull it out through the large hole in the inside door skin. (Detach cable/wiring clips as necessary.
On the "back" of the closer is a plastic cover. Remove it. There are two small #1 phillips screws holding it on along with some "tape" on the top. When you have it off, it should look like the "Door Closer" photo attached.
Now, look at the end where the catch assembly is and look at photo "Door Closer 2". The piece inside the red circle SHOULD pivot. It's probably seized even though there is no sign of rust and there is lots of grease on it.
That piece does two things. It mechanically latches the catch when the door is shut and also activates the blue microswitch to reverse the door closer motor after it's latched the door. With it seized, it does NEITHER. And the door does exactly what you described.
Use a pair of needle nose pliers and some WD40 and losen that piece up so it pivots properly. It should be sitting as you see it in the picture when released. (It will be stuck well away from that position if it's seized like mine was.) Once you've got it loose spray in some lithium or other grease to keep it loose. (The WD40 will dry out)
If you're careful, you can test it by using a small screwdriver to push the latch the way the "U" catch on the body will. When you get to a certain point, the motor will activate, pull the catch shut and immediately reverse back to it's resting position. If you pull on the inside release handle, the catch should release.
Reverse the above steps to reassemble the door closer, plastic cover, etc. It's a bit fidgety getting the closer back into the door because of the window channel. You'll have to push the channel towards toe outside of the door to get the closer motor past it. Don't push to hard. You don't want to bend it.
Once assembled, your door should close properly.
The dealer tells me they "know" about this problem but won't just fix it because Honda has told them to replace the unit outright. Apparently the replacement part is "improved"..... sounds like a recall that never happened. The door closer motor assembly is over $400 by itself. I'll stick with the fix thanks.
Hope this helps.
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