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It could be one of bolt too tight, bolt too loose, defective tensioner, or too much strain by tensioner pulley or another pulley? The tensioner bolt broke on my toyota one time for being loose per mechanic. That low rattle over time caused it to break.

On our accord there was a bad noise and that turned out to be a seized tensioner. The bolt was not broken though. Other than that 10.9 grade has gotta help.
 

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My thoughts exactly. I did not over tighten the last bolt that broke. I installed it with anti-seize on the threads and it was easy to get out this time. The previous time I had to drill the bolt and remove with an easy out. I suspect the bolts are of poor quality which is why I have ordered a new bolt.
 

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FWIW...
3 month later...
bolt broke off, then tensioner deteriorated.
serp belt is seriously damaged.

IMG_0718.jpg
 

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I have a few thoughts...

1. The broken bolt issue is only for J35A7 engine with hydraulic tensioner, NOT for J35A6 engine (LX model).

2. We don't hear factory bolt breaking off, ONLY AFTER it has been replaced.

3. Mfg quality:

- HONDA OEM: likely someone else makes this part now (the hydraulic tensioner and the bolt). FYI, car mfg switches supplier all the time.

- Aftermarket: Dayco, Gates etc. I don't know much about their quality. So it would help if peopl posting messages about their broken bolt can:
- List the mileage of the tensioner
- The mfg (Honda vs Dayco etc.)
- The factory bolt vs "new" bolt provided with the kit. Knowing all these problems, my inclination is to keep the factory bolt. It is still good for a long time. If you ever loosen the hydraulic tensioner, then you will know that it requires a LOT of force to loosen the belt. So, I can see that this bolt is under a lot of force even when the engine is off. Maybe this is bad design from day. Maybe the belt does not need that much tension.

4. VCM: does the jerkiness of VCM (shutting 3 cylinders) have anything to do with a "jolt" to the bolt causing weakening of the bolt?
People with VCM disabled ("kgardonia" thread): do they have broken bolt issue?
 

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The tensioner kit is Honda Part 04317-RCA-305.
Installed mid-March 2015 while servicing PS pump. The 10M x 115 bolt came with the tensioner kit.
It is under 1yr/12000 miles warranty. But since it was a DIY, what are the chances of success on getting replacement part under Honda Warranty?
 

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I don't have the Ody any longer (my 2007 Ody LX was totaled last year).

Anyway, a thought for you guys out there...
I understand this broken bolt business is for EXL, Touring J35A7 engine only.
From what I understand, people tell me it requires a lot of force to tension the tensioner for belt installation.
This leads me to believe that the belt might have been a tad short, creating tons of tension on the system, which may be the cause behind broken bolt or cracked tensioner etc.

The stock is 56992-R70-A01 or 6PK2135.

In the world of belt, ~5mm makes a difference in tension. So I wonder if a slightly longer belt will significantly decrease the risk of broken bolt? Example is 6PK2140 as used in other cars (such as Mercedes). What do you guys/gals think?

http://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Benz-Serpentine-V-Belt-Contitech-6PK2140/dp/B00GDLNEXK
 

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Wow now I be scared again!

I have 2010 Ody which I believe also has the J35A7 engine right?

Like kck3888, I'm wondering and hoping that over the past few years the world has found a solution to this problem? If I were to buy a tensioner today would I get an "upgraded bolt" or whatever that won't snap?
 

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I wonder if people do not want to use 6PK2140, then 6PK2138 is an option.
Make sure you use Mitsuboshi or Gates.
And probably re-use the factory bolt as suggested by Jester747.
 

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I am kind of puzzled why suggesting a longer belt, the auto-tensioner is designed to adjust slack or tightness, if you use a longer belt then you end up with a squealing belt if its too loose and tensioner can't adjust or take up slack. Not sure of some of your goofy suggestions using parts from other vehicles. Maybe you try it and let us know, I realize you don't have your van anymore.
 

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Checked RockAuto for belts for J35A7 compared to oem 56992-R70-A01. Another brand 84", another 84.1, another 84.75.

56992-R70-A01 Serpentine belt
Outside Circumference:2146.3 mm,84.5 in
Top Width:20.83 mm,0.82 in
Ribs:6 mm,6 in

GATES K060841
Outside Circumference (in) 84.625
Outside Circumference (mm) 2149

Top Width (in) .807
Top Width (mm) 20

ACDELCO 6K841
Number of Ribs 6
Outside Circumference (in) 84.625
Outside Circumference (mm) 2149

Top Width (in) .807
Top Width (mm) 20

Mitsuboshi: 6PK2135
MITSUBOSHI MICRO V BELT - 6 RIB - 2135MM LONG
 

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I am kind of puzzled why suggesting a longer belt, the auto-tensioner is designed to adjust slack or tightness, if you use a longer belt then you end up with a squealing belt if its too loose and tensioner can't adjust or take up slack. Not sure of some of your goofy suggestions using parts from other vehicles. Maybe you try it and let us know, I realize you don't have your van anymore.
alftoy,

It was just a suggestion. Let me be clear:

1. A belt is a belt. A belt may fit many vehicles. It is specified by: number of grooves, one-sided vs two-sided, and length.

2. With a longer belt, you may NOT end up with squealing. The experience from BMW tells me 5mm difference does not cause squealing.

3. I am trying to get to the root cause of the BROKEN BOLT! Virtually everyone says it takes a tremendous amount of force to compress the tensioner, even breaking the hex head. I have fixed many many vehicles for years and have never seen any design like Ody that requires massive of force to compress the tensioner. Perhaps the tensioner was designed with WAY TOO MUCH force to start with. The way to decrease the force on the belt is:
a. Change the tensioner spring strength (not an option b/c it is not available).
b. Lengthen the belt. This option "b" is what I suggest to people to reduce the chance of broken bolt. This may or may not work.
But again, my experience in BMW E39 tells me 5mm makes virtually no difference, i.e., no squealing noise.
 

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My thoughts exactly. I did not over tighten the last bolt that broke. I installed it with anti-seize on the threads and it was easy to get out this time. The previous time I had to drill the bolt and remove with an easy out. I suspect the bolts are of poor quality which is why I have ordered a new bolt.
Hi Comeauce. Could you please tell me how you drilled out this bolt? I imagine a right angle drill. Which model will fit in there?

Thanks!
 

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Im in the process of changing TB in 06 odyssey touring. Im at the point of removing sb tensioner. I stopped because the main bolt would not loosen so being very careful to not break bolt. Sprayed the bolt with pb blaster and letting it sit overnight. Reading this thread has got me nervous. Question for u if u may is, did the class 10 bolt and washer u bought from belmetric hold up? Thanks in advance
 

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Yeah-it did and this was on my sister's van. She drove the van for about 20k with the replacement bolt, till the trans went. Then she traded the van.

the belmetic team was very helpful. Good luck.

Deep
 

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Our 2008 Ody serpentine belt came off tonight and it is the second time and had to be towed. In early March 2016 it also happened and that time the bolt broke and had to be replaced -- Labor and parts came to almost $600. We are not sure the bolt broke this time. Seems like it should not have broken so soon and it is scary that it could happen when driving. I am beginning to wish we had bought a Toyota.
 

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Our 2008 Ody serpentine belt came off tonight and it is the second time and had to be towed. In early March 2016 it also happened and that time the bolt broke and had to be replaced -- Labor and parts came to almost $600. We are not sure the bolt broke this time. Seems like it should not have broken so soon and it is scary that it could happen when driving. I am beginning to wish we had bought a Toyota.
Is this the original bolt or it got replaced with OEM / aftermarket?
 
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