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Did you read the thread in addition to watching the video? I posted some tips already. It's only two pages of thread.
 

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where on ebay did you get the part? meaning the seller?

and yes, read through it. seems like you to just have to negotiate it out with your hands?
 

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The other common issue is with the unlatching motors. They are easy to change once you get the door panels off (that's the tricky part.) You can either take them apart and clean/lube them or you can just replace them. If your door pops or doesn't always open or close most likely your unlatching motors are the culprit. I replaced my rear rollers and cleaned/lubed the unlatching motors and my doors sound like brand new.
 

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The other common issue is with the unlatching motors. They are easy to change once you get the door panels off (that's the tricky part.) You can either take them apart and clean/lube them or you can just replace them. If your door pops or doesn't always open or close most likely your unlatching motors are the culprit. I replaced my rear rollers and cleaned/lubed the unlatching motors and my doors sound like brand new.
ok - Might as well replace the unlatching motors. can you give me an idea of where they are? u say I have to take the inside panels off of the sliding door to get to them? secondly, when I replace the rear rollers do I need to lube any track? where the rollers sit? if so, what type of grease/lube should I use? might as well do that when I have everything apart.
 

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Here's the best thread on the unlatching motors...The door panels are tricky. The inside handle has the clip behind it that holds it on. If you don't have the door handle clip tool you can pick them up at most any hardware store or use a small pick to pull it out. Be sure and put some masking tape around the handle as the tool will scratch the door panel if you don't. The other tricky part is pulling out the clip fasteners toward the back of the panel because it's hard to get in between the door and the body. You can't pull them with the door closed and the rear part of the panel is hard to access when the door is open. Once you get the panel off it's an easy fix. Just keep close track of the little spring that is attached to the unlatch motor. It's not included with a new motor and it's easy to lose. There are several youtube videos of the repair if you do a Google search.

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/153588-passenger-sliding-door-pop-stick.html
 

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actually yesterday, the door pops and sticks and then goes back. Is that more of a symptom of acutuator failure than the rollers?
 

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It can be just the rollers if they are very worn out. If your doors open and close a lot (usually with kids) then your center rollers are worn out. Probably every van of this vintage has worn out rollers if they haven't been replaced yet. The rollers are plastic and I'll put money on it that you'll find them very worn out and loose, or sometimes even missing.

Once the rollers are replaced then see how the doors work. If there are still issues with them popping or sticking with new rollers then I'd go in for the unlatching motors next.
 

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John,

How do I manually open and close the door? I moved the switch on the dash to the right. Then trying to pull the handle and it seems like it wont move. Do I just need more force?
 

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Make sure doors are turned off. Then just open the door manually. Sometimes it takes a bit of pulling to get the door out of it's closed position. Once it pops out, jut pull the door out and slide it backwards. If it hangs up a bit I'll pull on the back of the door when it pops open.
 

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The switch in the door is the kiddie lock. It prevents the inside door handle from working.
 

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ok - Just finished the repair. Few things of note

1)Sharpie - I have a black van so a black, red or blue sharpie would not show up on the paint inside there. had to find a special "gold" sharpie that my wife had.

2) cable - extreme pain in the ass. My fingers are sore. I taped the whole assembly to the car. Used 2 pliers. Put the front one in, the used my hands to get the rear started. Used a pair of pliers to keep the knob pushed in, then used a curved set a pliers not to clamp but to jimmy the cord in - hard to explain. My fingers are soo sore I will wait till next weekend to do the other side!

3) removing light - the damn thing would not come out! I pulled a light hard and bam! heard a crack. The bottom guide pin broke . found the pieced and used some plastic weld to put it back together. see links below - one roller was completely gone from the old one

thanks for all the help here! wish there was a procedure for that dang cable!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/blakeas/IMG_0698.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/blakeas/IMG_0697.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/blakeas/IMG_0700.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/blakeas/IMG_0701.jpg
 

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Those tail lights are a huge PITA. It was cold out when I went to pull mine and I broke the entire plastic piece where the two screws go in on my left tail light. Had to use plastic weld on that too. I replaced all the bulbs in both tail lights with new Sylvania Long Life bulbs so hopefully I won't have to go back in there any time soon as I'm not sure how well my plastic weld will hold up if I try to pull them again.

The "official" way to do the cables is to pull the inside plastic panel in the back and lift up the two plastic tensioner latches on the door motor. That gives extra slack on the cables. However, I found it easier to just slide the bracket assembly back from behind the door and work on it out in the open and just pull the cables with the spring tension still on them. It was a bit tricky but I managed. It would have been easier with a pair of pliers but I didn't want to nick the plastic coating on the cables.

As you can see, it's a job that has to be done. Those plastic rollers just aren't made to last forever.

Well done!
 

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I just replaced both of the sliders on my 2010 Odyssey doors and it went pretty easily. Thanks to all who have posted before, that made it much easier! I spent more time reading and making notes than doing the actual job. Here is what I found:

  • The tail lights are very difficult to remove the first time. Pull straight back only otherwise something will get broken. It will take considerable force.
  • Removing the rail cover assembly: Remove the 10mm bolt at the rear normally covered by the tailight assembly. Open the door fully, and remove the philips screw at the front of the rail cover. Close door most of the way. Push rail cover toward front of car one inch and remove. Be very careful to avoid scratching any body panels. Having the door mostly closed makes it much easier to remove without scratching anything.
  • Open door 6-8" only. Place jack 6"-8" forward of the back of the door to support the door. The jack should just contact the door, not lift the door.
  • Don't remove the bolts holding the roller assembly bracket to the door. Remove the circlip from the hinge pin with a small slotted screwdriver. Tap out the hinge pin from the top using a punch and a large hammer. It takes quite a bit of force to remove so be careful. Pry out the hinge pin from the bottom once it is loose. Moving the door up, down, in or out will help in removing the pin.
  • With the hinge pin removed, work the roller assembly loose. Again, moving the door up, down, in or out will help. Slide the roller assembly toward the back of the car where it will be much easier to work on.
  • Needle nose pliers help removing the cable from the roller assembly. Wrap masking tape around the pliers to avoid damaging the cable covering. I didn't need any help since everything is out in the open at this point, not sandwiched between the door and car body. It takes a bit of experimentation to remove the cables but it isn't too bad.
  • Clean the entire sliding track. There is no need for lubrication on the track since the bearing surface is in the rollers, not between the rollers and the track.
  • Since the bracket was not removed from the door, the Power Sliding Door Reset Procedure should not be necessary.
  • My rollers were still mostly intact after six years, but the posts for the nylon rollers were very loose. There would be no point in trying to replace the nylon rollers since the posts were damaged. That, and there is no circlip for the nylon rollers, they are permanently installed.
Craig
 
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