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I found the pin was too difficult to reach and to get a punch to sit well enough to remove the pin while the hinge was attached to the door. So I ran a grease pencil around the hinge mount to the door, pulled the entire hinge assembly and put the hinge mount in the bench vice. That made punching the pin out easy (after removing the circlip). Once out, I cleaned the pin up with a brass wire brush to get the worst of the dust and surface rust off, then put some lube on it just to act as a bit of rust preventative. Reassembled and put back on the door.

Whole process to replace the bearing portions of the hinges for both doors took about 1.5 hours.
 

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2005 EXL donated 243K ,2019sienna XLE AWD
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My ody driver side sliding door finally got stuck open when going home from a shopping mall! I heard a few squeaks past couple of weeks on that sliding door. Didn't paid attention to it. I bought new rollers before hand just in case. Well, I started to open the driver side sliding door to unload some stuff after shopping Sunday but the door got stuck mid way. Could not move it. Tried to start the ody and BATTERY WAS DEAD! This is a brand new battery from Costco installed about a month ago. Sliding door is stuck open and can't start the van. Thank goodness I have battery jumper in the back of the van . Jumped the van and went home with the sliding door stuck open. Other drivers were trying to get my attention that the sliding door was opened by honking their horns. Good intentions but I heard horns till I got home!
When I got home I was able to jiggle the door to close. There was a lot of binding on the track. Today replaced the defective rollers on the driver side. I was surprised one of the old nylon rollers was gone! The cable release was so easy I used my fingers to reattached the sliding cable. I said to myself this is too easy, why does everyone said the cable is to hard to pull? Well , I decided to do the passenger side sliding door today as well. Oh My God! What a PIA for other sliding door! I couldn't get that cable off for over an hour! I decided to use the Dremel to cut out a piece of the rear metal hook on the roller so just enough release the rear cable. I was very cautious to cut about 3/4 way down the width of the rear hook and use a needle nose plier to wiggle out the cut hook piece. I cut about 1/8 inch in length. I still had to stretch the cable to get it out but more manageable. I cut away about 1/8 inch of the rear hook on the new roller as well. The rear cable went in easily with some stretching as well. Both sliding doors work smoothly now. This engineering change is NOT recommended if you can stretch the cables by hand. I was dumbfounded why one side was easier that the other side.

Oh could my my van' s battery died possibly caused by the binding sliding door being ajar at the mall? Anyway my DVD player in the RES stuck in loading mode after the dead battery episode. Searched ody club forums and disconnected the battery terminals from the battery and connected them together for about 30 mins. Reinstalled the terminals to the battery and a DVD ejected and all is back to normal. Lesson learned is to replace those sliding rollers when they are not smoothly rolling or squeak asap. 05 EXL RES 187k.
 

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This is on my to-do list so went through video and took notes:
slidingrollers1.jpg slidingrollers2.jpg

One post noted 3rd gen had no slot for e-clip but diagram shows one. OEM part numbers ref only:
72523-S0X-A01 Pin, Slide Door Center Roller
94540-06014 E-Ring (6mm)
* 72561-SHJ-A21 Male Assy., L. Slide Door Center Roller
* 72521-SHJ-A21 Male Assy., R. Slide Door Center Roller
 

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Oops part on internet. I think the one I looked at, the person must have slotted it. I guess we wont know about the clip on the roller pin until we take it out.
 

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I just replaced these today, and what a difference! A couple of oughts after the process. My door was held on with 12MM bolts, and the back or the cable tray cover was a 10 mm bolt. WHen I replaced the roller, I noticed that the roller tracsk that the main roller, and the upper roller (at the roof) were bone dry, no lubricant at all. I used some gun cleaning oil (which is great for cleaning out the old dry grease and leaving a nice lubricant coating) on a paper towel to clean our the tracks, then I used a heavy lithium CJ joint grease to lubricate both tracks. All in all, I completed both sides in an hour
 

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so I did the roller replacement back in april - I get a call from my wife today that the door would try to shut and then wont latch and wont close. kept doing it so she had to turn off the automatic door close and closed it manually. Could that be something wrong with my repair or do I have another issue coming up?
 

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one of my favorite mechanics on youtube just posted a video of back middle hinge replacement.

the fact that its newer gen, makes no difference, its the same exact design.
I just recently replaced both door Nylon rollers and used the method outlined in this thread.
One thing SMA does a great job at, is showing how you can knock out the hinge pin.
I tried doing it before seeing the video and gave up pretty quick.
What sucks about having to remove hinge from the door is that the edges on the hinge are rolled,
so its tough to align it to exact same spot.
 

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I just posted a link to that same video in another thread. I did the sharpie method on mine. If you mark top and bottom and around the half-moon cut outs on the rear of the bracket you can get it right back where it was. If you don't have a nice angled pry bar like Eric has I think the sharpie method is just as easy. You can break the window or damage the inside of the door if you don't have the right tools to knock the pin out. Either way it's a pretty easy job.
 

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I agree that you have to watch out for the window. A week ago, there was a sears special on pry bars with strike caps, so I got a new set!

I replaced the nylon rollers only and not the entire hinge, and the biggest pain was removing the original holding washers.
I spent way too much time with sidecutters until I finally dug them out.
Has anybody figured out a better way to get them out?
 

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sorry, guess I wasn't more clear. I replaced the center roller replacement as shown in the video in april. My question is now I have a problem with it not closing and had to take it off automatic to get it closed. What could be wrong now?
 

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I agree that you have to watch out for the window. A week ago, there was a sears special on pry bars with strike caps, so I got a new set!

I replaced the nylon rollers only and not the entire hinge, and the biggest pain was removing the original holding washers.
I spent way too much time with sidecutters until I finally dug them out.
Has anybody figured out a better way to get them out?
I just ordered the same part Eric O did, pulled the whole hinge, knocked the pin out on the bench, put the new part on, pin and c clip back in and bolted her back on the door. The whole thing took maybe 30 minutes per side.

Just MAKE SURE you turn off the sliding door switch on the dash before doing the job.
 

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sorry, guess I wasn't more clear. I replaced the center roller replacement as shown in the video in april. My question is now I have a problem with it not closing and had to take it off automatic to get it closed. What could be wrong now?
That could be either the roller assembly being out of adjustment or a problem in the rear latch. It depends on exactly what it's doing. Is it pulling the door in and then popping it back out? Is it stopping half way? 3/4 of the way? If you can, post a video of it.
 

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Yes, that part is close to $100 up here in Canada and if you need two, well that's $200, and again just for the part. Stupid rip-off dealer parts counters up here! :nothappy:

BTW, I'm still talking about the 2 rollers and replacing THEM with a bearing, not the lower bearing wheel, that is fine and not what we're talking about.

For me, this is not just about $, but solving a problem the right way. Discussion can be had about OEM being the "right" way, however clearly the OEM part with the plastic rollers does not last more than a few years, certainly not going to last the life of the van.

Plastic rollers/spacers from Lowes is the lowest cost option, but essentially gives you the same solution as the OEM part.

So far, BSQ's idea of the brass roller is the only one that will outlast the OEM design, my comments above are just around at what expense. Rollers will definately last longer, rail will likely not wear any faster (maybe a little), will there be more noise in say 6 months of use? Will the pin holding the brass roller wear out when the grease is displaced in weeks/months/years? etc....

As for the bearing idea... to me this seems to be the longest lasting with lowest consequences, however may be expensive to purchase. I think those bearings can be close to $8 each, need 2 per bracket + S&H.

For me, I've ordered new OEM brackets from a dealer in USA, 2 brackets and shipping to Canada is like $80. When I get them and change them, I may see about putting bearings on the old brackets for the next replacement job, which at this rate will be in 2-3 years from now.

Cheers...
D
If you could wait couple of weeks Chinese generic bearings are dirt cheap.
Bearing part number 695zz = 5mm ID x 13mm OD x 4mm L.
With a little search on ebay, the 695zz bearings qty 5 is whopping $3 USD shipped to your door! That's only $0.60 ea. delivered to your door. Go for the Stainless steel bearings S695zz bearings qty 5 @ $6.95 USD shipped, that's only $1.39 USD each. McMaster spacer is $1.87 USD plus $6 USD shipping will put the spacers at $3.37 ea. after shipping for the purchase of 4.
You can install the stainless steel bearings and forget about these rollers for good.
 

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If you could wait couple of weeks Chinese generic bearings are dirt cheap.
Bearing part number 695zz = 5mm ID x 13mm OD x 4mm L.
With a little search on ebay, the 695zz bearings qty 5 is whopping $3 USD shipped to your door! That's only $0.60 ea. delivered to your door. Go for the Stainless steel bearings S695zz bearings qty 5 @ $6.95 USD shipped, that's only $1.39 USD each. McMaster spacer is $1.87 USD plus $6 USD shipping will put the spacers at $3.37 ea. after shipping for the purchase of 4.
You can install the stainless steel bearings and forget about these rollers for good.
So you are suggesting that this metal bearing slips over the pin and replaces the nylon roller that is on there now? Is it bad to have the outside of that bearing, which is metal, sliding or rolling along the inside of the door track or doesn't it matter?

My 7 year warranty expires in a few months. Would really like to get the van in for a fresh set of rollers for free but I had them done just a couple years ago so I'm worried that the dealer won't do them again. They're not really bad yet. Might just have to wait I guess and then I'll be on my own to do this DIY in a couple more years.
 

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Plastic door roller broke and fell off. Much easier to remove the e-clip and knock out the pin with a punch than to unscrew the bracket off.
P1030981.jpg
Filing the pin at 45 degree angle to cut through the crimped on washer.
P1030982.jpg
Remove the washer with 2 pairs of Needle-nose pliers and such.
P1030984.jpg
Washer removed.
P1030985.jpg
Both pins prepped. Sometimes the crimped head is uneven, Good time to file off the excess beyond the roller Inner diameter.
P1030986.jpg
Apply synthetic grease on the pins and install the Zinc plated brass spacers with Stainless e-clips.
This is also a great time to spray full synthetic lubricant on the load-bearing ball bearing and spin the bearing to soak the lubricant inside of the seals. Never use WD40 as regular WD40 is actually a solvent and not lubricant. Also a great time to lubricate the cables with spray on dry silicone lubricant.
P1030989.jpg

These Zinc plated brass spacers outlast plastic rollers over and over.

Cheers,
 

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The roller guide rail channels are made of stainless steel and no wear and tear or noise concerns.
The roller pins are made of mild steel and harder than the brass. Brass spacers will wear on the steel pins much slower than the nylon material.
No friction concerns for the ball bearings as the inner lace is always stationary.
 

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Nice upgrade. Is it just as quiet?

The only lube the track needs is at the front corner where the cable rubs on the track. The only reason it needs any lube is to keep the cable from wearing.
 
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