thanks for the response.... I don't believe that will be my cure ... 2005 became a new generation

 

Type of Masking Tape

Hi, I think this os the problem I am having with my 2007 EXL. when removing the track cover, does one need to use the blue painter's tape, or just the plain old off white tape. Also, Once you remove the track cover, can one obviously see whether or not the roller assembly needs to be replaced?

Thanks,

 

You can see the rollers well enough with a good small flashlight and the door in manual, so you can move it back and forth to look from both ends. my rollers had most of the outside diameter but were quite worn on the inside diameter. I couldn't really see the play, but they were dragging hard enough to want to change them, I'd like to drive the car for a few more years at least.
Unfortunately, my latching problem remains unsolved, hope to get around to trying the info in the above referenced thread next few days.
I like the blue tape, actually hung a 10 page or so newspaper section with some. Thanks to the guys above this was a fairly simple deal.

 

My tips for performing this procedure

Thanks to the OP and all who contributed here I'm another satisfied customer.

Passenger side sliding door on our 05 was completely inoperative in manual mode. I could see one of the nylon rollers was completely missing. Ordered the part and installed it yesterday.

Just wanted to add a few points to the great description on the procedure up top.

1) To dislodge the connector at the front of the tail lamp housing, pull it at a 30 degree angle (back and away) from the car since its aligned on this angle. Pulling straight back is futile!

2) Don't skimp on the masking tape! You might even think you don't need it, but you do. All the finagling trying to get the hinge in and out of the track and putting the wires on and off demands this. I didn't have any masking tape so I used duct tape.

3) Don't use "dry erase" marker! Mine rubbed off in all the working of the hinge. No worries, if you lose markings just try to center the hinge holes on the bolts while they're just barely loose and then close the door manually and watch how the door latch hits the striker, it should be centered top to bottom. Also note of the door is to far rear (rubs as it hits the latch) or too far forward (difficult to open with handle.) To adjust simply open, support door with knee while loosening bolts, then adjust and carefully re-tighten. Also make sure the hinge rollers are square in the track (not tilted.)

4) Use a jack with wheels (most if not all have these) so the door can be moved out of the way while working with the cables. Before pushing it be sure to pull the handle to disengage the latch holding it in the open position! I hadn't realized this and ended up pushing the door hard thinking it was just "stuck" and this dislodged the top roller off the hinge and the entire door began falling off the car. Luckily I managed to catch it and yell for my wife to come and help me get it back on. I was completely unable to re-attach the rear cable until I moved the door out of the way so I could get better leverage.

5) The pin on the hinge may not look like it will fit back thru the hole after you get the clamp washer off but it does. Use a socket below and just whack it!

6) After I got it all back together the door wouldn't close (or open) using the power mode. I ended up having to perform the reset procedure listed here.

Now that I can tell how smoothly the door should work after having done the repair, I can tell my drivers side door is also on the verge of needing this repair. I wish I had realized how far gone it was so I could have just ordered both parts and saved on the shipping cost! Still cheaper than taking it to the stealership.

 

After I got it all back together the door wouldn't close (or open) using the power mode. I ended up having to perform the reset procedure listed here.

Great instructions. It worked fabulously. I changed the passenger side door roller and every opener opens the door with the exception of the outside door handle. I will start and then either stop and then reverse back to the start, or just stop. It does this 1 -3 times and then it seems to work fine. Should I need to reset the door again. I followed the procedure, with the only exception being the passer side fuse #7 was not for the instrument panel. Any suggestions?

 

Has onyone tried removing the pin with the hinge atached to the door, I only got the roller side of the hinge , but not the door side of the hinge, has anyone tried removing the clip and driving the pin out without undoing the 16mm bolts attaching the hinge to the door? I thought it might make getting the door aligned back easier.

 

Has onyone tried removing the pin with the hinge attached to the door, I only got the roller side of the hinge , but not the door side of the hinge, has anyone tried removing the clip and driving the pin out without undoing the 16mm bolts attaching the hinge to the door? I thought it might make getting the door aligned back easier.

The problem will be whacking the daylights out of the pin while still attached to your nice shiny painted van. It is easier to just mark the location with a felt pen / remove a couple of bolts.
Plus what will happen to the alignment of the hinge once you start pounding it? I bet it will move...

 

The problem will be whacking the daylights out of the pin while still attached to your nice shiny painted van. It is easier to just mark the location with a felt pen / remove a couple of bolts.
Plus what will happen to the alignment of the hinge once you start pounding it? I bet it will move...

Great points, must be my lazy side coming out.

 

Has anyone found it necessary to replace the rail that these rollers ride on?

I bought a used 05 Odyssey 8 months ago that from the start has made a grinding sound when opening/closing the doors and the doors are difficult to open/close in manual mode. Lithium helped the one side a bit (little quieter/easier) but not the other (worse) side. Inspecting things I see that there a groove has been worn in the rail...the chrome finish has been worn off the rail and it is starting to wear beyond that.

Does that matter at all...or is it pretty inconsequential to the operation/noise if the rollers are good?

 

2007 sliding door roller replacement

thanks to everyone who had suggestions on how to do this. just finished the job on my 2007 and learned a few things. of the two rollers, one was missing, looks like it just disinigrated. part was about 50 (souther ca. ) and dealer wanted 300 so thats a no brainer for me. i did remove door but now not sure why that is even necessary. guess i will find out when the other side goes. (five kids and lots of friends so it wont be long) hardest part of the process was attaching the cables to the new part. one smart person (forgot his name) said he used a vice grips and for me that was the ticket. tried needle nose and klines but just couldnt get the cable to reach. dreaded taking apart the inside and tried the vice grips and worked perfectly. ask for help as it is near impossible to do without another arm. my daughter worked well and i pulled the cables together while she fed it into the new roller. after that i cleaned and lubed the track. put everything back together and ugh!!!!!!! door would close manually but not with the button. door was not aligned properly. took a seat inside the backseat and noticed why it wouldnt close, door had sagged a little. loosened up the door and raised it slightly then tightened it again and perfection!!! again thanks for the help men,

 

Thanks

Thanks. Just completed a drivers side replacement. Process works like a charm.

But, as the Original Poster (OP) said, it's helpful to have a second pair of hands to help with removing/reseating the cable ends.
I did it myself and buggered up the cable coating somewhat, near the ends. I added a little grease, to cover the scraped coating.

 

On my '07, the roller shafts are smashed down essentially riveting the rollers on. There is no way to install new rollers unless the top portion of the shaft is ground off at which point there is nothing left to retain the new rollers.

I made the fix by using a thin cut off wheel on a dremel type tool. I put a slice across the little washer that is peaned over the plastic roller, alowing you to pull the washer apart and off the axel. I made a pair of steel rollers on a lathe and sliped them onto the axles and put a new washer over then and a simple E clip in the original washer groove location to retain them. Works great. My drivers side will get taken apart and fixed soon as a preventative measure. I have since spec-ed out stainless steel sheilded roller bearings to work in place of the plastic crap and have them on hand for the job. I will post it all here with pictures. It comes down to about $15 per door at the most.

 

Excellent Instructions - A few things I'd change

1. I'd liberally tape up everything first. 3" of tape below the cover plate. 1" at the top and bottom of the plate itself, 1" above it.

2. The nut sizes were different for me. I thought perhaps I had the wrong car.

3. When you remove the runner from the door, I'd tape the thing into a big tape ball. Those cables are so tough to get on and off, it'll fall several times and perhaps put some scratches on the car.

4. There's got to be a trick to getting those cable barrels in. I ended up grabbing the cable with needle nose pliers. Holding the bracket as close to the van as possible to give me the most cable and holding the cable about 1/4" above the barrel rotating it around towards the opening while using a finger to hold the bottom of the barrel in the cylinder opening. Still it was quite tough. A 2nd pair of hands would help.

The advice about marking the bracket worked great. I'd almost use paint to make the outline even more distinct. You almost need to shove the pen against it to make sure you can see exactly where it was.

I'm disappointed the running lasted only two years.

 

I just changed out the rollers on mine a few days ago as they were gone completely and riding on the metal shafts. As others have done, I just replaced the nylon rollers (leaving the bracket connected to the wires) and e-clips for under $2.00.

One problem I had was trying to remove the panel. I was banging away on it trying to get it to slide to the rear, but it turns out it slides to the front to release! After that it was smooth sailing.

Oh yes, don't lean against the door and knock it off the jack while doing the work. Oops, that was a tough one with no help

 

2004 Odyssey....I had the grinding, skipping on my driver's side sliding door. Passenger side was starting to do the same thing. Took it to the local dealer....$500 to fix both.

Read various threads on here....went to Lowes, bought the nylon rollers and e clips....fixed both doors this morning in about an hour for less than $10.

 

Piece of cake

I followed greyghost's step-by-step instructions and I think it took me longer to get out my tools and keep my three-year old out of them than it did to perform the roller replacement.

Thank you for the detailed instructions, it was a breeze.

Additionally, I got the part delivered from MajesticHonda for $70 after the dealer wanted to charge me $95!!

 

My '05s drivre side door has a hitch (that is to say it sometimes stops opening and then closes on its own). My question is this: how do I determine which hinge part is the problem? Can I just do the disassembly and then see the problem?

 

roller inspection

Following the disassembly instructions will give you a very quick and easy way to check the rollers. If it's the one specific to the thread you'll know as the nylon rollers will be crack or gone.

 

One problem I had was trying to remove the panel. I was banging away on it trying to get it to slide to the rear, but it turns out it slides to the front to release! After that it was smooth sailing.

I just came here to post the same thing. Maybe the original post can be edited to indicate that. It seemed obvious to me that the OP had it backwards once I thought about how the screw at the front of the door was attached to the rail. on getting it out of there, too, i found having the door about halfway open gave me the most room to manouvre it out of there.

My '05s drivre side door has a hitch (that is to say it sometimes stops opening and then closes on its own). My question is this: how do I determine which hinge part is the problem? Can I just do the disassembly and then see the problem?

late reply, but in case anybody else comes along with the same question... it's pretty much guaranteed to be a problem with the male assembly part. And for those that think about ordering it, make sure they don't send you the part for the LX. it won't work!

 

For my LX, I am glancing at this setup, I think it can be done without the need to remove rail cover and tail light.

The way I see it, let's say you replace the passenger's side roller:

1. Open the passenger sliding door only 3-4 inches.

2. Support the door with floor jack and rag as mentioned in the 1st thread.
A 2nd person to help is a great idea here!

3. Loosen the bolts holding the roller assembly, but do not remove them yet!

4. Now enter the van via the driver's side sliding door and remove the 2 bolts holding the roller assembly and wiggle the roller assembly out.

5. Assembly is simply reverse.

This way you do NOT have to remove the rail cover plate.

 

For my LX, I am glancing at this setup, I think it can be done without the need to remove rail cover and tail light.

The way I see it, let's say you replace the passenger's side roller:

1. Open the passenger sliding door only 3-4 inches.

2. Support the door with floor jack and rag as mentioned in the 1st thread.
A 2nd person to help is a great idea here!

3. Loosen the bolts holding the roller assembly, but do not remove them yet!

4. Now enter the van via the driver's side sliding door and remove the 2 bolts holding the roller assembly and wiggle the roller assembly out.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FYI:

2001 LX, Replaced center roller. Yes, you do not have to remove anything.

Just open door, a few inches, remove assy. Just follow instructions.

Very easy fix. Did mine a couple of days ago.

 

2004 Odyssey....
Read various threads on here....went to Lowes, bought the nylon rollers and e clips....fixed both doors this morning in about an hour for less than $10.

My van is 2007 Ody LX. I noticed that you fixed your 2004 using rollers from Lowes, interesting!

I borrowed the pic below from 2nd Gen Forum and see that:

1- Steel Bearing should last life of the van.

2- Plastic Rollers look like can be replaced using Hardware parts for $10 (maybe $2.00 for each roller at hardware store; $0.50 for each E-clip).

------------------
Info for roller and E-clip for 2nd Gen Ody is here:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=63167

Nylon Spacer: 1/2" x 0.194" x 1/4". They are in the hardware section in the pull out bins or go to your local Ace hardware etc.

5/32" E-clips. They are in the same section. They are round and will snap right into the groove of the pin.

-----------------

Does anyone know the exact size of the 3rd Gen roller (I.D., O.D. and thickness) and the size of the E-clip?

 

anyone get the roller failure covered under factory honda 100 k warranty? anyone know if it "covered" under said warranty? local dealer told my wife it is not covered - just checking validity of his statement.

 

@doggie

I don't have a copy in front me, but I read the exclusions in my Hondacare extended warranty and specifically stated are sliding door rollers.

I did the repair myself with minimal difficulty. Rread the thread thoroughly, work carefully, and you will have no problems.

 

@doggie

I don't have a copy in front me, but I read the exclusions in my Hondacare extended warranty and specifically stated are sliding door rollers.

I did the repair myself with minimal difficulty. Rread the thread thoroughly, work carefully, and you will have no problems.

thanks for the info mtbiker

 

fixed both sides of our 2005 LX tonight. Wow, it was simple compared to what I thought it would be. Nice too b/c ours doesn't have the power sliding door, so NO cable to mess with.

Only problem now is the door latch that holds the door closed on the drivers side, has been acting up and will need to be replaced too. The passanger one went out just after warranty expired, but they covered it as we had it in for service for the same issue once prior to warranty expired and they just lubed it and said it was fine. Guessing, the door latch is gonna run a few hundred to fix .

I think dealer wanted like $300-350 per door to fix the rooler/hinge assembly with labor/parts and I think both sides cost me <$100 total to fix both sides. Can't see how they justify those labor prices when it takes about 20-30 minutes to fix each side .

 

I'm too having the same issue on both of my rear slider, I just ordered both of these parts: 72561-SHJ-A21 (Item 11, left side, driver side) and 72521-SHJ-A21 (Item 6, right side, passenger side) from Honda Parts East, and will tackle this project soon, many thanks to this thread, and everyone who has contributed to this every helpful DIY thread.

TT,