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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I purchased my 2005 Touring a couple of years ago for $3500 from a friend. It had 150k on it and needed O2 sensors at the time, which I took care of to get the CEL off and smog cert. Previous owner had the water pump and timing belt done around 100k, or so I was told. He also depaxed it.

Since I've owned it, I've done the following:
  • New battery
  • New AC compressor
  • Drivers side CV
  • New pads and rotors this week
I now have ~177k on it and it needs the following:
  • New windshield
  • New struts in front
  • Passenger side CV (quoted $500, Firestone)
  • Lower control arm/ball (quoted $1350, Firestone again)
  • Alignment ($100)
..also:
  • has a tranny whine at certain speeds, but I keep up with regular drain and fills and the tranny is behaving for now.
  • eats power steering fluid a little, and has a power steering whine from time to time at slow speeds in sharp turns.
  • the vent never fully closes, because you can always feel a small amount of air or heat when the HVAC is off, depending on what temperature was used last.
Looking at 2-3k for the stuff I know about in the first list, and haven't really done any digging on the second list yet. I can wrench to an extent, but always end up regretting it on big jobs. I installed the AC compressor myself though, and had a shop deal with the recovery and refill of the refrigerant.

I love the van, but unsure how deep this rabbit hole will go in the near future and if it's worth throwing all this money at for something on the heels of 200k miles.

How many miles can I expect from this van? Anything to look out for on the failure list at this mileage? At what point do you say.... okay, this has become a money pit.

Any advice or insight appreciated. 馃檪
 

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2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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If you maintain it, I'd expect it to last for probably another 100k miles, if not more.

The power steering issue could easily be because of the messed up power steering pump stuff that had a warranty extension 10+ years ago, assuming that was never done on your van. Maybe ask a Honda dealer for goodwill consideration?

The axle estimate seems a bit much. I had my passenger CV axle replaced with an aftermarket at an independent shop recently, it came out to about 230$.

That's all I can say on this. I'd say this is worth it if you would like to keep the van for a while. I think if you can get these addressed, the van will last long enough to make it worth it.
 
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2005 Honda Odyssey... for towing, camping, & fetching parts for the German cars. :-/
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IDK your ability or inclination to make repairs yourself... but owning a 15 year old Odyssey (I have the same year!) is super cheap if you're only buying parts! It's just nuts & bolts, and if you have a 2nd vehicle for those times when stuff takes longer that you expect, have at it! I replaced the CV axles, struts, control arms, shocks, and front tie rods for a few hundred bucks (aftermarket parts).

DEFINITELY add a VC Muzzler II. It'll keep the engine from eating itself & might save buying motor mounts. If you do need motor mounts, the VCM II will let you use non-active ones instead, saving a couple grand just on the parts.

Power steering... replace the fluid for sure. Pumps are pretty easily replaced, too; racks, not so easy.

Your list is good! The only down side is paying a bunch of labor. As for when "enough is enough?" Too many people think of vehicles as a capital asset, as in... I can't dump $2k into an asset worth only $3.5k on the open market, because I'll lose money. Nonsense! A vehicle is an EXPENSE bourn to carry people & stuff around.
  • You have a van. SUNK COST.
  • No matter what you consider doing at this point, you want to carry people & stuff.
  • Compare any contemplated expense against possible substitute solutions.
  • Seldom could you buy reliable transportation for the cost of repairing a decent vehicle you already own.
    • Say you do dump $3k (because you pay for labor) into this van.
    • You still get reasonably reliable transportation for, say, 5 years & 100k miles.
    • That's $0.15/mile repairs & 100% depreciation including the original purchase! It's hard to do better than that. Depreciation & repairs of new or new-ish vehicles are typically 2x that.
  • Any other option... you've still sunk the $3.5k original purchase.
 

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If you do your own work, keep it. If you don't, still keep it. Find a good independent shop and do the repairs. Those quotes from Firestone are high and they won't use OEM parts.

How do you know if you need these repairs? Did a shop recommend these?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
IDK your ability or inclination to make repairs yourself... but owning a 15 year old Odyssey (I have the same year!) is super cheap if you're only buying parts! It's just nuts & bolts, and if you have a 2nd vehicle for those times when stuff takes longer that you expect, have at it! I replaced the CV axles, struts, control arms, shocks, and front tie rods for a few hundred bucks (aftermarket parts).
My apprehension stems from situations where I don't have the proper tools or am fighting something that doesn't want to come loose or the other 1000 things that go wrong and you regret having half your car torn apart. I'd probably be okay with the struts and PS pump, but the passenger CV looks like a headache.

DEFINITELY add a VC Muzzler II. It'll keep the engine from eating itself & might save buying motor mounts. If you do need motor mounts, the VCM II will let you use non-active ones instead, saving a couple grand just on the parts.
Wasn't aware of the VM Muzzler/VCM Tuner, but I've had no issues with VCM mode on the van so far. I just read about the product and get the purpose, so I may add it to my todo list.

Your list is good! The only down side is paying a bunch of labor. As for when "enough is enough?" Too many people think of vehicles as a capital asset, as in... I can't dump $2k into an asset worth only $3.5k on the open market, because I'll lose money. Nonsense! A vehicle is an EXPENSE bourn to carry people & stuff around.
  • You have a van. SUNK COST.
  • No matter what you consider doing at this point, you want to carry people & stuff.
  • Compare any contemplated expense against possible substitute solutions.
  • Seldom could you buy reliable transportation for the cost of repairing a decent vehicle you already own.
    • Say you do dump $3k (because you pay for labor) into this van.
    • You still get reasonably reliable transportation for, say, 5 years & 100k miles.
    • That's $0.15/mile repairs & 100% depreciation including the original purchase! It's hard to do better than that. Depreciation & repairs of new or new-ish vehicles are typically 2x that.
  • Any other option... you've still sunk the $3.5k original purchase.
You logic is sound. Think I'll just work on my '05 in hopes I can get another 75-100k out of it. It's not my daily driver as I have an EV, but I use it every weekend and on road trips. It can be down for days without much impact.

Major parts list breaks down to:
  • Cardon Front Right CV axle ~$50
  • KYB Front Struts ~$300
  • Cardone Power steering pump ~$200
  • Front control arms/ball joint ~$225
  • VM Muzzler/VCM Tuner ~$80
These are rock auto prices and not OEM. When I replaced the drivers CV, I got the Cardon from rock auto and it's been fine ever since. Any of these components better off from the dealer? I've read aftermarket struts can be problematic.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you do your own work, keep it. If you don't, still keep it. Find a good independent shop and do the repairs. Those quotes from Firestone are high and they won't use OEM parts.

How do you know if you need these repairs? Did a shop recommend these?
Firestone,did the estimate when they replaced the pads and turned the rotors,
 

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2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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Regarding the VCMTuner, get the VCMTuner II instead of the original. It's a bit more expensive, at around $120, but it disables the VCM 100% of the time and requires no seasonal adjusting. If you're going to disable the VCM, might as well do it completely.
 

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2005 Honda Odyssey... for towing, camping, & fetching parts for the German cars. :-/
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鈥99ody22-rims鈥 is dead-on about VCM problems. If your van鈥檚 been ok, count it as good fortune & muzzle that thing ASAP!
 

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Regarding the power steering eating fluid...this just happened to me. A couple weeks ago the pump was whining and I found the reservoir low. I filled it up and a week later it was low again. I discovered that the high pressure power steering hose was "sweating" fluid through the hose.

I replaced the hose with a NAPA version that fit perfectly and was in stock at my local store vs the OEM version that my local dealer would have had to order. One week later and no more leaks.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Regarding the VCM Tuner II: Was just about to purchase, but I'm in CA. I'm unsure if they will even ship it to me or what the implications are on a CA emission vehicle. I just smogged it last month for renewal, so I won't need to worry about it for another 2 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Regarding the power steering eating fluid...this just happened to me. A couple weeks ago the pump was whining and I found the reservoir low. I filled it up and a week later it was low again. I discovered that the high pressure power steering hose was "sweating" fluid through the hose.

I replaced the hose with a NAPA version that fit perfectly and was in stock at my local store vs the OEM version that my local dealer would have had to order. One week later and no more leaks.
Same symptoms. Squeals and I refill it. Not losing a lot really, but I'll look over the system and check for leaks or the 'sweating' you experienced. I have a relative that works at NAPA, so I get 10% over cost on most items. ;)
 

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Regarding the VCM Tuner II: Was just about to purchase, but I'm in CA. I'm unsure if they will even ship it to me or what the implications are on a CA emission vehicle. I just smogged it last month for renewal, so I won't need to worry about it for another 2 years.
Don鈥檛 worry about it. Should have no implications for emissions testing. Worst case, if it does, just remove it prior to test.
 
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