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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched, and haven't found anyone with any solid info for tips/tricks/gotchas for pulling the dash. I'm getting ready to do that this weekend and would like to avoid any major pitfalls. Initially I had no heat on drivers front, and very little in back. I flushed the cooling system, and back flushed all lines. While I was running water only with superflush in system, I did have intense heat. I assumed problem solved. I back flushed out the superflush solution and refilled with coolant. It went back to very little heat. I did the thermostat upgrade, no change. I superflushed a 2nd time for a longer period, over the course of a couple days. I put it back together and had a little heat, but not much. I then noticed I was leaking coolant, and MUCH later discovered it in the carpet on the floor. :mad: It was the middle of July so I tied the lines together and have put it off until now. The mornings are now getting cool and the wife is reminding me winter is coming. Anyone have any pointers?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also if there are any recommended fixes or updates while i have the dash out. I know with my dodge truck, there is a blend door that always fails, actually most all of them. I've seen a few posts on here with what could be doors not always working correctly, but not seeing as many on the Hondas. I tried to see if there are any step by step honda-tech instructions from one of EE4Life posts, but haven't found one for interior yet. My heater core is to arrive tomorrow, and I will start on Friday. Anyone have info?
 

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I had to make an unplanned trip the weekend this fun was planned due to a death in the family so I am going to try again this weekend. Anyone???
 

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Since I'm not getting much love here yet, I checked out All-Data. The procedure for replacing the heater core just says to remove the dashboard, and then starts detailing further steps. I looked at the dashboard section, and it isn't clear. It covers center lower, outer panels, switch panel, hanger beam, etc. but isn't real clear how much has to be disassembled to get access to the heater core. Is it possible to leave most of the dash intact by unbolting the main metal support from the sides of the van, and center bottom? It appears there are bolts on the exterior drivers side, and interior passenger side that bolt into the big beefy steel bar. If those are taken out, can the whole dash be slid back as 1 big unit?
The other part of me is considering taking the plastic cover off of the front and then cutting the thin metal support at the bottom of the glove box off so the heater assembly could be cracked open and the heater core slid out. I can see exactly where it is with the glove box, and center side covers removed. I see both lines that run back to the firewall. It is not nearly as far back in the dash as I first guessed before digging into it.
 

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This job certainly isn't for the faint of heart. I finally have the dash pulled away. All of the yellow SRS connectors are a major pain. Of course, they do not make them connect like the other clips, and they change them up to boot. I broke one and will attach some pictures later to help prevent others from making same mistake. And even though I had found all of the connectors, the instructions didn't cover the wire going to the moonroof. It's important to move slowly when it is finally free. I took both front seats out, and am glad I did. Some other vehicle repairs mention only loosening the steering wheel and lowering it slightly. I'm not sure how that would work. I ended up removing it. It was difficult to get to the bottom cover off. Still not sure the best way. If I get it to go on better, I'll point out a tip.

Thanks to cnn for some help. It has confirmed what I've done so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It is all back together, and I now have heat. I'll have to get the pictures off my phone. I could do it again in a lot less time if I had to, but I have no desire to do it again. Everything but the FM radio work. I have no reception. I'm guessing something is loose somewhere. Anyone know which cable connector is the antenna? I can't see what I missed.
 

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Antenna is a dedicated cable that looks like coax cable. I believe it has a round plug, but cant be sure.
 

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Similar issue, different car, was helping friend with 2009 Jeep Patriot with pluggeg Heater Core.

The whole dash removal in the Jeep is 8h job, so I modified the procedure to save time:
1. Cut the metal pipes off old Heater Core.
2. Cut new HC pipes at appropriate locations.
3. Join new HC to old piping system using 5/8" heater hose.

All done in 1.5h.

Detail below:
DIY: 2009 Jeep Patriot Heater Core - Jeep Patriot Forums

I wonder if you can approach the Ody HC the same way: cut the metal pipes then join with generic heater hose.
 

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It is all back together, and I now have heat. I'll have to get the pictures off my phone. I could do it again in a lot less time if I had to, but I have no desire to do it again. Everything but the FM radio work. I have no reception. I'm guessing something is loose somewhere. Anyone know which cable connector is the antenna? I can't see what I missed.
Hey, flat_lander,

This is a sensitive topic for me as I am facing a second winter with little or no heat in my '07 Odyssey. The symptoms in my van are exactly the same: low/no heat on driver's side, low heat in the back. I was wondering if replacing the front heater core also fixed the rear heat? I am planning to take it to the local repair shop and give them as much information as possible. Every mechanic I have spoken to felt skeptical about the heater core being clogged. However, I have tried every solution you mentioned in your post and nothing worked. My Ody has 147,000 miles. Except for this one extremely annoying issue, everything else is still going strong.

Thanks for all the info!
 

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Mindaugas,

My advice is start with the inexpensive fix first. See post #6 for the link using Motorad tstat.
The bottom line:
- Motorad tstat from O-Reilly $14
- Honda tstat gasket $3-$4
- Some 50-50 coolant.
At 140K, flush the system with fresh coolant.

The whole thing should not cost you more than $30 in parts if you DIY.

Also, check the heater valve cable at the firewall to be sure it moves freely.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey, flat_lander,

This is a sensitive topic for me as I am facing a second winter with little or no heat in my '07 Odyssey. The symptoms in my van are exactly the same: low/no heat on driver's side, low heat in the back. I was wondering if replacing the front heater core also fixed the rear heat? I am planning to take it to the local repair shop and give them as much information as possible. Every mechanic I have spoken to felt skeptical about the heater core being clogged. However, I have tried every solution you mentioned in your post and nothing worked. My Ody has 147,000 miles. Except for this one extremely annoying issue, everything else is still going strong.

Thanks for all the info!
Agree with cnn, but sounds like you have already tried the stuff I did. The heat is now night and day difference. That, and I no longer have a leak inside spilling fresh coolant on my carpet. :p I hope to get my photos uploaded soon. Still on my to do list, it just keeps growing.

Similar issue, different car, was helping friend with 2009 Jeep Patriot with pluggeg Heater Core.

The whole dash removal in the Jeep is 8h job, so I modified the procedure to save time:
1. Cut the metal pipes off old Heater Core.
2. Cut new HC pipes at appropriate locations.
3. Join new HC to old piping system using 5/8" heater hose.

All done in 1.5h.

Detail below:
DIY: 2009 Jeep Patriot Heater Core - Jeep Patriot Forums

I wonder if you can approach the Ody HC the same way: cut the metal pipes then join with generic heater hose.
I looked at this when I was hooking my radio back up. I don't think this would work. The big metal reinforcements behind the dash plastics would be in the way. I don't think you could get it out without having to cut them as well. I don't think the cover to the heater core would come out nicely, and the core certainly wouldn't clear without some trimming. But if someone is adventurous, they could prove me wrong. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I started by removing both front seats. It helped a ton to have plenty of room to stretch out and work. Here the bottom of the center console is removed, and the glove box.

http://


I moved on to the steering wheel next. I didn't take too many pics here, because I didn't find a good way to take it apart. If you have someone you can ask the proper way to do this, I'd suggest it, because it was a bear to get the trim pieces out from around the column. Also, I would have taken a few more pics of where these harnesses plugged in. I eventually got it, but it took longer than the rest. I did take a pic of the steering shaft alignment to help keep it oriented straight.


These are the little retaining tabs from the steering column bolts in case yours fall off before you see how they fit together.



Late night, and the steering column is finally out, and the dash is free. If the dash doesn't slide freely back, something is still attached. I thought I could avoid taking the A pillar trim pieces off, but it would not slide back until I set them free.


Other side with cable to sunroof dangling.


Dash fully pulled back.


Stupid SRS connectors. It seemed to me each set in different locations hooked together differently. I'm sure to prevent us shade tree mechanics from tampering with them.


The whole enchilada exposed.


This is the blind nut hole for the final bolt holding the HVAC assembly in place. I looked for a LONG time trying to figure out why the unit would not come off of the firewall when I had removed what I thought was all of the retaining bolts. It is near the temp valve.



Getting ready to separate the fan box from the heater assembly.


To Be Continued.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The heater core is physically located behind that Denso sticker


FYI, the main SRS component at the bottom of the center console, those little white tabs say PULL. I couldn't figure out how to get it out, and actually broke the white plastic piece off. That made it much more difficult to remove once I could easily read PULL while holding it in my fingers.


Some of the connectors that need to be removed. on passenger side kick panel.


And now drivers side kick panel.


harness octopus dangling



Drivers side mirror actually has to be removed. I was laying on my back looking up underneath the dash looking for the bolts. I found one in the door jam and couldn't figure out where the others were. I measured on the inside, then measured up from door jam and thought to myself, "Seriously?!?!"




When putting back together, this seemed to be the worst potential pinch point. A piece of the metal reinforcement of dash on drivers side squeezes right up to the main SRS yellow loom. It would be very beneficial if you can have a helper occasionally to help hold stuff out of the way while taking apart and reassembling.
 

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Hi flat_lander,

Thanks for the photos!

Back to my point of replacing the Heater Core w/o removing the dash, using the Jeep Patriot example above, I have attached an Odyssey photo for reference.

- BLUE arrow is where the HC fits inside the Heater Assembly Unit (that includes the flaps and also the AC Evaporator).
- I wonder if one can cut the 2 metal pipes (RED lines), keep the old pipes that go to the firewall.
- Remove old HC.
- Cut the pipes on the new HC at appropriate places.
- Join the newly cut HC to old pipes using standard heater hoses.



HC.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #20
how long did this take you ?
It was a solid weekend of dissasembling on Saturday, and then going back together on Sunday. I'm sure the book time is at least 8 hours. Would be much less if you have a little knowledge going in. Good luck on your endeavour!
 
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