[bholben]

Hey all,

After digging around on the forums here, I have a question that I didn't see directly answered in others' posts. I have an '06 EX (170k miles) that appears to be having the classic symptoms of motor mount failure. I'm getting a rattling sound from the passenger side engine area, heavy vibrations while idling, and some clunking while shifting from park --> reverse and while downshifting on deceleration. The engine also seems to "jump" while shifting when I observed it in park.

So I've found out from the forums here that my EX does NOT have VCM, so no need to install a Muzzler. So my question is: what suggestions do y'all have for motor mounts for an EX? It seems that it's more important to go OEM for VCM-enabled models, but I'm still a bit confused.

I cannot afford OEM parts, as I've already had to repair the CV axles, get new tires, and do a few other minor repairs...and this van's already pretty old Any suggestions for a budget-friendly way to approach replacing mounts? All at once, piecemeal? Brands to try?

Thanks, all!

 

[hpark21]

I thought OEM non-active motor mounts are not very expensive or am I wrong? (or is it just not expensive compared with active mounts? )

That said, if the issue appear to be coming from passenger side, it may be just side motor mount (which would be non-active mount for either type of engine).

Just checked, front engine mount for EX = $121 and rear engine mount = $155
(Active ones - for EXL and touring, they are like $741 and $838 so yah, BIG difference).

Side ones are like $75 or so.

So, if you are going to do the work yourself, I am thinking OEM mounts are no-brainer (at least for non-active ones).

 

[bholben]

I thought OEM non-active motor mounts are not very expensive or am I wrong? (or is it just not expensive compared with active mounts? )

That said, if the issue appear to be coming from passenger side, it may be just side motor mount (which would be non-active mount for either type of engine).

Just checked, front engine mount for EX = $121 and rear engine mount = $155
(Active ones - for EXL and touring, they are like $741 and $838 so yah, BIG difference).

Side ones are like $75 or so.

So, if you are going to do the work yourself, I am thinking OEM mounts are no-brainer (at least for non-active ones).

Thanks for the helpful info! Could you provide the link where you found prices/parts? New to the game in searching for parts

It seems that the side mount may be a more approachable DIY job, right? Rear one is more difficult? I got a quote from my mechanic for labor on all mounts, so weighing the piecemeal vs. total replacement as well.

 

[hpark21]

Thanks for the helpful info! Could you provide the link where you found prices/parts? New to the game in searching for parts

It seems that the side mount may be a more approachable DIY job, right? Rear one is more difficult? I got a quote from my mechanic for labor on all mounts, so weighing the piecemeal vs. total replacement as well.

Engine Mounts - 2006 Honda Odyssey 5 Door EX KA 5AT

Shop in the parts listing - 2006 Honda Odyssey 5 Door EX KA 5AT Engine Mounts. Discounted prices and Hassle-Free Return on genuine Honda parts.

www.hondapartsnow.com

Check with Bernardi honda as well. (bernardiparts.com)
Depending on parts one place may be cheaper than the other - take shipping cost into consideration as well.

 

[kernel]

heavy vibrations while idling, and some clunking while shifting from park --> reverse

Do you park on a slight incline? If so (or in any case) it may be a good habit to shift into Neutral, apply the parking brake and then shift into Park. This would reduce pressure on the parking pawl and reduce or eliminate the clunk shifting out of Park on the next drive.
For other shift issues- have you done a drain and fill on the ATF? What's the color/smell of the AT Fluid?
Rough idle- what's the condition of the spark plugs? You don't state how many miles your EX has.
Another source for parts is Rock Auto, and they have a coupon code in their section here on the forum
As for replacing the mounts piecemeal vs all- my attitude is if inspection shows the mount is still ok, leave it for later.

 

[bholben]

Do you park on a slight incline? If so (or in any case) it may be a good habit to shift into Neutral, apply the parking brake and then shift into Park. This would reduce pressure on the parking pawl and reduce or eliminate the clunk shifting out of Park on the next drive.
For other shift issues- have you done a drain and fill on the ATF? What's the color/smell of the AT Fluid?
Rough idle- what's the condition of the spark plugs? You don't state how many miles your EX has.
Another source for parts is Rock Auto, and they have a coupon code in their section here on the forum
As for replacing the mounts piecemeal vs all- my attitude is if inspection shows the mount is still ok, leave it for later.

Thanks!

Good idea on the shift sequence. I'll try it out.

EX has 175k on it. I bought it at 170k with very few maintenance records. I will inspect the ATF. It doesn't seem to have any other AT symptoms (shuddering, catching, etc), but still worth a look, as it seems regular changes (drain/fill) are worth it.

I'll prob also get the plugs replaced too since I'm not sure of the condition. By "rough idle" I'm referring to a vibration and quite loud drone in the cabin (made worse with AC on). No apparent problems with RPMs.

I'll poke around here for a how-to on doing a visual inspection on the mounts. Anyone have a post that addresses that on hand?

 

[WiiMaster]

Yeah, my Odyssey makes an audible clunk if I shift from Park to Reverse on an incline. I've read that when you're parking on an incline, you should set the parking brake, let the car settle on the parking brake, and then shift it to park. That way you avoid the stress on the parking pawl, which is causing the clunk.

The plugs are supposed to last about 105k miles, so it's very possible they've never been replaced.

For the mounts, have someone else in the car and watch the engine for excessive movement while revving the engine and shifting out of park.

 

[Bear3412]

This cluck that occurs shifting into drive on an incline we understand as our driveway is sloped. We do not use our emergency brakes. Perhaps we should learn.

So this previous post interests me.

Most times I coast out of the driveway downhill in neutral, then shift into drive once on level ground at a stop. Less clunk than on inclined DW shifting into D.

Yet there is still a good cluck just shifting into N from P fwiw to coast out of DW.

If shift into drive while van moving even a bit, it is a very painful clunk. Never do that.
My experience all FWD cars are like this. Stop fully before shift.

I always felt I was relieving stress on trans, avoiding shifting into drive on our just slightly inclined driveway.

I will try this technique now using EB to spare trans fully. Avoid all clunk.

So; Pull into inclined spot, stop, set EB, release foot brake, letting EB take the load, put in P. Turn off.
Return later, start van, shift into P, then release PB? Is that right?
Will experiment.

I'm into details/specifics/operation and this tactic never occurred to me even with that horrible clunk sound I can hear inside house as wife leaves in van.

It's a painful noise and can't be good for anything.

Did I say we often have to repair our EB system every 3 years ~ for state inspection, since we never use it?

I'm embarrassed I never thought of this.

I'm glad I saw this post.

So this huge cluck is within trans and will cause damage over time?
We have 13 years of clunking.
Guess all those trans D&F helped perhaps?

Will report back regardless if anyone is interested.

 

[kernel]

Return later, start van, shift into P, then release PB? Is that right?

Make that:
Return later, start the van, shift out of P, then release PB. Now it's right!
If you want to coast down the driveway, that's fine. Just stop and then shift into drive.

 

[WiiMaster]

So; Pull into inclined spot, stop, set EB, release foot brake, letting EB take the load, put in P. Turn off.
Return later, start van, shift into P, then release PB? Is that right?
Will experiment.

So this huge cluck is within trans and will cause damage over time?
We have 13 years of clunking.
Guess all those trans D&F helped perhaps?

Yes, besides what kernel said about shifting out of P.

Mine has been clunking for years as well, but with fluid changes every 30k I haven't had issues yet which is good. I also usually park on the level garage floor anyway, so it's not very often that this is an issue. You have the 2008 transmission, which I wouldn't worry about as much as the 06 transmission I have.