Have you checked the condition of the rollers?
Reading the body codes requires a bi-directional scaner. Or you could jumper the connector behind the driver side kick panel and blink out the codes. Search, my memory can only tell you where the connector is on the RA1!
Limit switch? More likely the rear latch assembly. Lots of threads for troubleshooting and fixing the sliding doors!

 

This is a very common issue discussed on this forum weekly. It is most likely a bad rear latch module. The internal microswitches often fail. Sometimes they can be cleaned to restore operation, but most often the part has to be replaced. Costs about $200. It is very common for this issue to also cause the battery to drain.

 

Going through the same thing here and after checking the body code(b2088) it points to base position switch in the rear latch assembly or stuck cam pivot. Wiimaster was kind enough to post this link ABJ362860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

It's the same microswitch and no drilling or modification is required, just basic soldering for the two wires.
If you haven't checked for body codes it can be checked by pulling the cover near the driver side fuse box and shorting the two exposed spades in the relay area.

 

Going through the same thing here and after checking the body code(b2088) it points to base position switch in the rear latch assembly or stuck cam pivot. Wiimaster was kind enough to post this link

It's the same microswitch and no drilling or modification is required, just basic soldering for the two wires.
If you haven't checked for body codes it can be checked by pulling the cover near the driver side fuse box and shorting the two exposed spades in the relay area.

Thank you for reposting, this really helped me out. I had never heard of Digikey before but they were great to buy from.

 

Got the code “b2088 34”
What is the significance of the 34?
How can I check and confirm the switch is the issue?
Just check the continuity and look at the contacts?
what should I look for on a meter and is anything visually going to show up?

Really appreciate all the feed back on this issue.
Thanks,
Michael

 

Got the code “b2088 34”
What is the significance of the 34?
How can I check and confirm the switch is the issue?
Just check the continuity and look at the contacts?
what should I look for on a meter and is anything visually going to show up?

Really appreciate all the feed back on this issue.
Thanks,
Michael

I believe the 34 is just narrowing down what exactly the problem in the door is, which is the code that is thrown by the issue with the switch.

As for testing the switch (even though the switch is almost certainly what's bad, it's good that you'd like to test it), this video should help with that:

 

It looks like you have the take door card off and remove the latch assembly to check the switch so for around $10 shipped it might be worth just ordering a few and have on hand.

 

Yeah, the door panel has to come off (which is a pain the first time you do it, speaking from experience, but the second time you do it it'll be lightning speed), but getting the latch assembly out is the bigger trouble, because it's a very tight fit, and while you might be able to get it out no problem (though most people have to mess with the power window track), you'll definitely encounter snags putting it back in.

 

I have disassembled the door and got to the limit switch you referenced. I tested it and another one to compare readings on a working one to the one believed to have failed.

it was obvious that the switch was bad once tested for continuity. I removed the switch and continue to disassemble it to show the contacts. Contacts were very dirty and had build up. I clean the contacts with contact cleaner and reassembled the switch. I tested the switch again and reassembled it into the door. The door is working without issue now. I have ordered new switches I believe the contacts may fail overtime.

I appreciate all the help on this issue. I have found this to be a straightforward fix and appreciate all the information.

Thanks,
Michael

 

Glad to hear it. Especially glad to hear you were able to get the free fix. Always nice when that happens. No struggles getting the latch assembly in and out?

 

There are 4 switches in the rear latch module. Are all 4 the same, identical part?

Would it not be simpler, easier, and less expensive to just buy a new Honda door latch module?

 

There are 4 switches in the rear latch module. Are all 4 the same, identical part?

Would it not be simpler, easier, and less expensive to just buy a new Honda door latch module?

The latch assembly is over $200 and switches are under $10 for identical ones from Digikey. The microswitch replacement takes about 10 extra minutes if you own a soldering iron so definitely worth the effort.

 

There is definitely some finesse to removing it. With a little bit of time and some good like it comes out OK. When putting it back together you do have to push the window track out of the way to slide pass to the largest part of the assembly and then it just slides into place. I did completely remove the switch by cutting the wires but by leaving enough to solder them back together. To make it Easy when I’m replacing the switch I did add longer wires and so there are two solder points for each of the wires going to the switch that I’m going to replace. With removing the switch I was able to look at it in some good light remove the plastic cover to the contacts and clean them extremely well. Without damaging the cover I was able to reattach it and reassemble the switch into the assembly. I did test the other switch that was on the assembly For comparison. The replacement switches around $20 with shipping. I did price the assembly around 200+ shipping. I don’t believe would be worth replacing the assembly. Most of the assembly is mechanical and I believe with last forever.
Thanks,
Michael

 

Very interesting. I'd be very interested in seeing a video of the actual replacement of the 4 switches in the door latch module. This could be a significant breakthrough in resolving the very common rear latch module issue.

 

In your other video, the one I watched and responded to, I could see two micro switches, but not 4. My understanding is that there are 4. Is that your understanding?

 

I am not really sure about how many switches there are.