I've had intermittent battery drain and (un)related no-start issues since I bought the vehicle in 2014 with around 100k miles, it now has 140k miles. Each time I've thought I've finally fixed everything, something new crops up.
Drove it off the used car dealer's lot after buying the thing, next morning the battery was dead. Brought it back, they did "tests", said it was fine, but replaced the battery anyway. Was fine for a number of months after this.
Replaced badly worn power door rollers, the doors weren't closing all the way causing the system to engage after the car was turned off and draining the battery in less than overnight. (Discovered with parasitic load testing). Was fine for a number of months after this.
Completely removed aftermarket/dealer remote start system. Decided this was worth removing since I never used it and read stories about it draining batteries if improperly installed, also noticed it randomly going off occasionally. Was fine for a number of months after this.
Started seeing battery drain issues, where the car wouldn't start or would chug a bit but not turn over: remedied by topping up the battery on a charger. Got tired of this happening every few days. Checked the alternator while running, it's putting out healthy voltage to the battery. Decided to just up and replace the suspect used car dealer battery. Was fine for a number of months after this.
Back to now no click no start.
Battery is very healthy (practically brand new) and has a full charge. Started working on diagnosing things. I've checked the circuit from the battery to the input on the Starter Cut Relay, test light turns on when turning the key to start. Swapped Starter Cut Relay with working Power Window Relay of same type, doesn't start. Shifting to Neutral to start, or quickly shifting in and out of neutral to start doesn't work. Quickly turning the key on, off, on to start doesn't work. I've done some probing and resistance checking across the pins of the Transmission Range Switch (Neutral Safety Switch) and the resistance seemed pretty high for the gear the car is in (thru pins 5 and 6 in park) it shows a load of 30 ohms, and the reading dances around if I push on the switch housing. Suspecting a worn switch I replaced the neutral safety switch. I checked the new part's resistance in the same position and same contacts and it reads just about 1 ohm resistance, so I felt validated that my diagnosis of the switch being flaky was good. Once installed, no difference. Same no click no start issue resumed.
Now, suspicious of the legendary solenoid signal 12v small gauge wire which classically wiggles loose, I contort my hand down below the dreaded battery box ledge and remove the wire. It was relatively difficult to remove (not crazy loose like other folks'). I took a peek at it and was convinced that's probably not the issue, but decided to check the voltage when the key is turned. I hooked a voltmeter between that connector (not connected to solenoid) and ground and read 0v with no key in the ignition. When the key is turned to crank, I see about 1.5v on that wire. That seems a bit low to me on the starter signal wire.
Shouldn't I see battery voltage (12.6v+) on the starter solenoid signal wire on crank?
Then I realized a (maybe?) weird behavior. I put in the key, no immobilizer light turns on, turn it to on/start and I see the green light go solid, then turn off. When I finish trying to crank the motor, the immobilizer blinks a handful of times, then turns off. Then I turn to start the car and I hear an added whine/whir sound coming from near the starter, but no actual throaty crank like I'm used to. I don't hear any loud clicking, I'm wondering if the solenoid isn't being engaged and the starter is just spinning freely not engaged? All the while all the dash and accessory lights come on as normal and seems fine, just no start.
Is my immobilizer system kicking in and preventing start? I don't know what it looks like when that's happening, but I didn't register the blinking situation as being unusual until now when I'm second-guessing all of my previous assumptions and moral convictions.
If it's not the immobilizer, I'm trying to guess that it has to do with the Ignition/Starter switch not sending power to the starter solenoid...but that sounds hand-wavy and not quite right without a GOOD wiring diagram to look at.
Anyone have a link to a correct and legible starter wiring diagram, as well as an ignition switch circuit diagram? I'm having trouble finding one that matches my year, but I have found some captures from YouTube videos and such that seem to have been correct so far.
Anyone have more ideas? I'm willing to try anything short of small animal sacrifice to get this fixed. I'm also not really willing to just take it to a mechanic...because it's un-start-able in my own garage. Thanks for reading and your thoughts.
Drove it off the used car dealer's lot after buying the thing, next morning the battery was dead. Brought it back, they did "tests", said it was fine, but replaced the battery anyway. Was fine for a number of months after this.
Replaced badly worn power door rollers, the doors weren't closing all the way causing the system to engage after the car was turned off and draining the battery in less than overnight. (Discovered with parasitic load testing). Was fine for a number of months after this.
Completely removed aftermarket/dealer remote start system. Decided this was worth removing since I never used it and read stories about it draining batteries if improperly installed, also noticed it randomly going off occasionally. Was fine for a number of months after this.
Started seeing battery drain issues, where the car wouldn't start or would chug a bit but not turn over: remedied by topping up the battery on a charger. Got tired of this happening every few days. Checked the alternator while running, it's putting out healthy voltage to the battery. Decided to just up and replace the suspect used car dealer battery. Was fine for a number of months after this.
Back to now no click no start.
Battery is very healthy (practically brand new) and has a full charge. Started working on diagnosing things. I've checked the circuit from the battery to the input on the Starter Cut Relay, test light turns on when turning the key to start. Swapped Starter Cut Relay with working Power Window Relay of same type, doesn't start. Shifting to Neutral to start, or quickly shifting in and out of neutral to start doesn't work. Quickly turning the key on, off, on to start doesn't work. I've done some probing and resistance checking across the pins of the Transmission Range Switch (Neutral Safety Switch) and the resistance seemed pretty high for the gear the car is in (thru pins 5 and 6 in park) it shows a load of 30 ohms, and the reading dances around if I push on the switch housing. Suspecting a worn switch I replaced the neutral safety switch. I checked the new part's resistance in the same position and same contacts and it reads just about 1 ohm resistance, so I felt validated that my diagnosis of the switch being flaky was good. Once installed, no difference. Same no click no start issue resumed.
Now, suspicious of the legendary solenoid signal 12v small gauge wire which classically wiggles loose, I contort my hand down below the dreaded battery box ledge and remove the wire. It was relatively difficult to remove (not crazy loose like other folks'). I took a peek at it and was convinced that's probably not the issue, but decided to check the voltage when the key is turned. I hooked a voltmeter between that connector (not connected to solenoid) and ground and read 0v with no key in the ignition. When the key is turned to crank, I see about 1.5v on that wire. That seems a bit low to me on the starter signal wire.
Shouldn't I see battery voltage (12.6v+) on the starter solenoid signal wire on crank?
Then I realized a (maybe?) weird behavior. I put in the key, no immobilizer light turns on, turn it to on/start and I see the green light go solid, then turn off. When I finish trying to crank the motor, the immobilizer blinks a handful of times, then turns off. Then I turn to start the car and I hear an added whine/whir sound coming from near the starter, but no actual throaty crank like I'm used to. I don't hear any loud clicking, I'm wondering if the solenoid isn't being engaged and the starter is just spinning freely not engaged? All the while all the dash and accessory lights come on as normal and seems fine, just no start.
Is my immobilizer system kicking in and preventing start? I don't know what it looks like when that's happening, but I didn't register the blinking situation as being unusual until now when I'm second-guessing all of my previous assumptions and moral convictions.
If it's not the immobilizer, I'm trying to guess that it has to do with the Ignition/Starter switch not sending power to the starter solenoid...but that sounds hand-wavy and not quite right without a GOOD wiring diagram to look at.
Anyone have a link to a correct and legible starter wiring diagram, as well as an ignition switch circuit diagram? I'm having trouble finding one that matches my year, but I have found some captures from YouTube videos and such that seem to have been correct so far.
Anyone have more ideas? I'm willing to try anything short of small animal sacrifice to get this fixed. I'm also not really willing to just take it to a mechanic...because it's un-start-able in my own garage. Thanks for reading and your thoughts.
