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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Year/milage: 2006 with 172K miles; EX.

Symptoms:

1. Neither the fob nor the power lock switches will lock/unlock the driver's side sliding door. You can lock/unlock it manually and it does engage the locking mechanism and works like "normal".

2. Automatic door button will not open nor close the door but it will slide normally when you do it manually. When you press on either the fob or cabin button it gives the three beeps, similar to when it is locked or when the car is in drive and you try and open the door. The mechanism does not engage or disengage to attempt to open or close the door. Basically, nothing happens except those three beeps.

3. One evening, we left the switch in the "on" position that engages/disengages the automatic door open buttons. It is located right above the door switches. The next morning, the battery was dead... I charged it up and it's worked fine as long as we keep the switch on the manual setting.

What I've done so far:

1. Pulled two fuses (#7 and 13) from inside the cabin.

2. Disconnected the battery and reconnected.

3. Replaced the rollers and hinge just in case. They were kind of sticky and needed to be changed.

4. Replaced the gas door sensor. This is the sensor that prevents the door from opening when you're pumping gas.

5. Replaced door lock actuator. I read that many of the symptoms I've been seeing can be caused by this.

6. Drank lots of beer. Well, what else would you do after all of this didn't work...?


7. update See my post below on the door latch work.

Questions:

1. Are the power lock, dead battery, and the automatic door problem caused by the same thing or are they three separate problems? Or, maybe two problems?

2. What would you try next?

3. Possible solutions?

THANKS in advance for any help you can give!
 

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This seems like symptoms related to the very common rear door latch module issue. This is discussed on this forum almost every day.
 

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#6- excellent! The only safe way to use alcohol, whether for internal disinfection or attitude adjustment! :ROFLMAO: Gives you a chance to reevaluate the problem.
#4- That was my first guess- good!
#3- Good, rollers and stiff hinge can aggravate smooth door movement.
As thScott says replacing the door latch will often resolve the issue. Also related to the battery draining overnight.
Only thing missing in the diagnosis and repair was to find the thread describing how to pull the codes for the sliding door. Involves removing driver side kick panel and jumping two pins to blink out the code on the cluster. That might have pointed to your #5 to repair or replace the rear latch assembly earlier in the process.
Time for another beer! ?
 

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The battery drain sounds like an issue with the rear sliding door latch. The door lock issue sounds like it's a separate issue. If you're in that door, I'd use a test light at the connector going into the door lock actuator and see if you're getting power when you hit the lock/unlock button.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The battery drain sounds like an issue with the rear sliding door latch. The door lock issue sounds like it's a separate issue. If you're in that door, I'd use a test light at the connector going into the door lock actuator and see if you're getting power when you hit the lock/unlock button.
Thanks for the tip. I'm not sure what you mean by "use a test light at the connector", but I'll figure that out. I'm still looking for how to pull codes for the door. There are NO lights on the dash that are illuminated indicating a problem.

What I've tried (update):

7. I've pulled the door latch and took a look. It was clean and no seizing at all. I gave it some white lithium grease just to be sure. Everything seems to be good there.

8. I also checked the light blue microswitch and this was unengaging and engaging as normal...or at least appears to be working normal.

But this created a new symptom!

Symptom #4:

Now when I close it on manual, I hear the locking mechanism engaging and it pulls the door tight. Then 5 seconds later, it disengages and relased the door. This was not happening before.

Hmmmmm....Time for another beer!
 

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First, the rear latch is your issue. There are FOUR different microswitches in it that all have to work at the exact right time. If any don't activate for any reason the door will not operate correctly. I recommend just putting a new latch in it.

On the door lock question regarding a test light. The door lock actuator is just an electric motor that moves the lock mechanism. That motor usually has a two wire connector on it. To lock the door it puts power and ground to the two wires. To unlock, it reverses the polarity to run the motor the other way. If you unplug the lock mechanism and substitute a light in the connector you can lock/unlock the doors and see if the light lights up. If it does, that means that there is power and ground getting to the connector and that all your switches and other components are working fine and that the lock mechanism is the problem. If the light does not light up, assuming you have a good connection for the test light, that means you don't have either power and/or ground at the connector and more troubleshooting will be necessary to determine why power and/or ground is not making it to the connector.

This is the kind of troubleshooting you should get when you take your vehicle to a shop. This is how you prevent replacing parts that don't need replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
First, the rear latch is your issue. There are FOUR different microswitches in it that all have to work at the exact right time. If any don't activate for any reason the door will not operate correctly. I recommend just putting a new latch in it.

On the door lock question regarding a test light. The door lock actuator is just an electric motor that moves the lock mechanism. That motor usually has a two wire connector on it. To lock the door it puts power and ground to the two wires. To unlock, it reverses the polarity to run the motor the other way. If you unplug the lock mechanism and substitute a light in the connector you can lock/unlock the doors and see if the light lights up. If it does, that means that there is power and ground getting to the connector and that all your switches and other components are working fine and that the lock mechanism is the problem. If the light does not light up, assuming you have a good connection for the test light, that means you don't have either power and/or ground at the connector and more troubleshooting will be necessary to determine why power and/or ground is not making it to the connector.

This is the kind of troubleshooting you should get when you take your vehicle to a shop. This is how you prevent replacing parts that don't need replacing.
Thanks John and others. Here is an update.

I went to a junk yard and got a complete rear door latch assembly. I also replaced the rear door lock actuator (part number 18373-01207251)

Sadly, neither fixed my problem(s). My power locks still don't lock/unlock the rear left sliding door and it will not open and close with the switch. I also still get the three beeps. It only cost me $30 for both parts, so I'm not out too much money. At this point its unlikely the door latch since it would mean both door latch assemblies were faulty. Possible, but unlikely.

I took it to my auto parts store to scan for codes because I read another of your posts that said you can still have codes without the light (which is news to me). Well, nothing there either. No codes except 16-1 and 18-1 (left and right wheel speed sensor malfunction), but this is a totally different issue.

So, I've replaced:
Gas door sensor
The two actuators (one black - 18373-05490378, one white - 18373-01207251)
Door lock assembly

At this point, I think I'm going to have to take it in. Considering I now have all new parts in this door, it has to be electrical. Electrics is my weak spot. Just don't know a ton about it.

Thanks for your help. I totally get your comment about taking it in to avoid replacing unneeded parts, but as you know that's expensive! I don't mind learning something new and replacing a few parts. But, I may have met my match! If you have any suggestions, I am all ears!
 

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The power locks issue is a separate issue. I have always said that. Fixing that may fix everything. I even suggested a test light in the connector to the lock actuator. With electrical issues it almost never pays to just shotgun parts at it. However, you just say that after replacing the rear latch your door still doesn't work. Does it still have a parasitic battery draw? Have you measured the draw? I base my rear latch suggestion on that battery draw. If that's not there then that changes my suggestions. We can only go on what you post here.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The power locks issue is a separate issue. I have always said that. Fixing that may fix everything. I even suggested a test light in the connector to the lock actuator. With electrical issues it almost never pays to just shotgun parts at it. However, you just say that after replacing the rear latch your door still doesn't work. Does it still have a parasitic battery draw? Have you measured the draw? I base my rear latch suggestion on that battery draw. If that's not there then that changes my suggestions. We can only go on what you post here.
I think I have three separate issues that have been confounding things. I went to my auto parts store today and got stranded due to the battery not starting. Had the battery tested and it was shot. Put a new battery in and brought it home. Tested the draw on a new battery (tested @ 12.4V) and there is no parasitic drain as tested by an almost brand new ammeter/multimeter (measured @ 0.06A on the 10A setting). So, the bad battery made me think there was a parasitic drain when there wasn't.

I tested the voltage on the plug going into the white actuator on top and got nothing. No voltage at all on either plug, even when I press the lock/unlock button.

This seems to point to a wiring issue? I have no idea how the power gets to and from the door.

Hmmm...maybe I'll look for some wiring diagrams.
 

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Ah, some testing! Now we're getting somewhere. No parasitic draw changes the equation a lot. Best case scenario you'd have a scan tool that could see the position of the switches in the latch but without a parasitic draw and no scan tool all we can do is assume there is no issue with the latch.

The three beeps means the door is seeing the door locked, pinch sensor activated, too much drag on the door, etc. I was doing some browsing of the diagrams this morning for another user and found that the left side door lock actuator gets its signal from the rear MICU junction box. The rear MICU gets the power for the door lock from fuse 4 (20A) in the passenger side under dash fuse box. That's where I'd start.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ah, some testing! Now we're getting somewhere. No parasitic draw changes the equation a lot. Best case scenario you'd have a scan tool that could see the position of the switches in the latch but without a parasitic draw and no scan tool all we can do is assume there is no issue with the latch.

The three beeps means the door is seeing the door locked, pinch sensor activated, too much drag on the door, etc. I was doing some browsing of the diagrams this morning for another user and found that the left side door lock actuator gets its signal from the rear MICU junction box. The rear MICU gets the power for the door lock from fuse 4 (20A) in the passenger side under dash fuse box. That's where I'd start.
Thanks, checked fuse 4 on passenger side and it's fine.

I also checked fuse 13 under the driver's side (left power sliding door closer) and it's fine.

I also looked at the fuse diagrams and my secondary fuse box is supposed to contain a fuse for the left sliding door in slot#2. But my secondary fuse box doesn't even look like the diagram and there is only ONE fuse in the entire box. See attached pic. Now I'm totally confused...

 

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Also check fuse 7, 21, and 13 in the driver's side under dash fuse box.

If those are all good, if it was me, I'd pull the rear MICU junction box out and check for signal coming from connector C, pins 3 and 5 when you lock and unlock. C3 is a blue wire and C5 is a blue/red wire. I'd connect a test light to those wires and see if it lights when you lock/unlock.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Also check fuse 7, 21, and 13 in the driver's side under dash fuse box.

If those are all good, if it was me, I'd pull the rear MICU junction box out and check for signal coming from connector C, pins 3 and 5 when you lock and unlock. C3 is a blue wire and C5 is a blue/red wire. I'd connect a test light to those wires and see if it lights when you lock/unlock.
All of the fuses are fine.

I'll look into puling the rear MICU junction box.
 
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