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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all, I’m new to this forum and have a repair question.

I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey, engine type J35A7.

While vehicle was running (fortunately right outside my house, I had forgotten my wallet and just got home lol), the crankshaft pulley failed right in front of me, it was pretty crazy watching it shoot out of the car and roll down the street.

Searching this forum, I’ve found this has been a problem with these vans, lots of other people experiencing the same thing. The timing belt was changed before we got the car (by the dealer), I am guessing this pulley wasn’t swapped though. It has 163k miles on it currently, no warranty obviously...

I’m trying to determine if this is something I should try to tackle myself. I am pretty good with brakes/suspension/basic maintenance stuff. I know enough about engines that I know I need to be careful here with throwing off the engine timing. I have the service manual and understand I would need tools that I don’t have (Belt Tension Release Tool), as well as the pulley holder and 19mm heavy-duty socket as described in the Crankshaft Pulley Removal and Installation section. It is like the worst possible time for this to happen (of course) as I am in the middle of moving houses. I have a Honda dealer nearby as well as auto parts stores, so I think I could acquire a new belt and crankshaft pulley and the tools and do it myself, but I’d like to understand the risks and possible caveats so I don’t screw it up if I attempt this.

The other option is taking it to the dealer. It still starts and I’ve driven cars without power steering, I could make it to the dealership easily enough. Any ideas how much a repair like this would cost at a dealership? vs. other garage (e.g., there are plenty of local garages as well as national chains such as firestone where I live)? It seems like this should not be a time-consuming job for somebody with the right tools/parts/experience.

Any advice would be most appreciated, thank you!

155965
155966
 

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Once you get that bolt off, you can finish the job. Hardest part is removing that 19mm bolt.
Get OEM parts only.

Dealership should be the last or not an option as they will rip your arms and legs apart for payment.
 

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Replacing the crank pulley is very easy, however, you need the right tools to get it off. If you don't have a high torque electric impact gun (milwaukee 2767) with the Lisle thick walled 19mm socket, then you need to resort to the holder tool while using 19mm socket on a long 1/2" extension sitting on a jack sticking out of the wheel well mated to a breaker bar + a 6' steel bar pipe extension to get that bolt off. Doing it the manual tool way, you risk breaking socket and extension or flipping the extension bar in your face basically. That bolt is torqued to 181 ft-lb and famous for not coming off easily without high powered tool. You can drive to the dealer with the serpentine belt off but the whole car would be running off battery power only, if that battery runs out midway to the dealer then you are stranded.

I suggest if you are in a jam busy doing moves then you take it to the dealer and just get it done. The other way is to go to Harbor Freight and get most of the tools but you'll need to order the 19mm Lisle socket which might take too long to arrive.

Do not use aftermarket crank pulley, they are known either fail quicker or not fit correctly. Use OEM only. BTW, the oil pump/VTEC spool valve is leaking badly, you should get that fixed whenever you can.
 

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Welcome to the forum!
If you are a descent driveway mechanic you can do it and save some money.
This job can be done in 30 minutes or less!
i did this a few months ago when I brought it in to my trusty shop for a noise issue and they determined my pulley was separating and my belt was visibly riding half off the idler pulleys. They quoted me about $480, that was a Doorman crank pulley at $184 and a new aftermarket belt at $85, the rest was labor and a special tool.
The idler pulley is pretty easy to move to loosen belt once you where to attach your wrench and breaker bar. This took me longer to do than loosen the crank bolt.
I purchased the special thick walled socket on Amazon for $23. Found an aftermarket crank pulley for about $100, and a factory OE belt for $55 ( you will want the factory belt as anything other than will either squeal/squeak right away or within 15,000 miles.

I turned my wheels full lock to the right, removed a couple of plastic plugs holding the fender liner to pull it back to reveal the crank pulley bolt. Sprayed the bolt with penetrating fluid, attached the socket to my Dewalt 1/2” drive impact and crank bolt came off in less than 10 seconds. Went up top and loosened tension at the idler pulley and removed the belt. Then removed the crank pulley (don’t loose the key way, mine stayed on vehicle), installed new one and installed bolt with same tools used to remove it.
Just don’t over tighten it,Torque is only like 185 ft. lbs. Installed new belt and started it up and Viola! Good to go! Don't Forget to reattach the fender liner.

This job took me about 40 minutes as I was trying to move the idler pulley at the wrong spot.
I initially reinstalled the same (Used) belt that was in use prior to pulley replacement and my noise issue did not disappear. So I installed the OE belt a few days later and all the noise issues went away and a little bit of the engine vibration from the pulley replacement.

Its pretty straight forward and easy. I think you will be able to handle this one in a short amount of time.
 

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As t-rd posted, the key is the get the Milwaukee 2767-20 impact wrench - an 18 volt cordless tool - and the heavy duty Lisle socket. With these tools the bolt will easily come off.
 

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BTW, there is no way you can mess up the engine's timing because you aren't taking off the timing belt, which is behind the 3 plastic timing belt covers. You'll only remove the serpentine belt that drives the accessories.
 
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