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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
My wife was at grocery store the other night and as they were getting ready to leave store, it seems the sliding door won’t close. I drove car home with the door open. Would be great if someone is able to point me in the direction of what needs to be fixed. Before this happened the door definitely had issues I was ignoring such as:
1. Door would have a pop sound when opening.
2. intermittently not able to complete a close and we would have to manually close it.

as It stands right now the door is open and it won’t budge past a certain point. Cable looks to be intact. I’ve done resets with the switch on and off and no change.

would appreciate any help that can be offered.
Thanks,
David
 

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You haven't been very specific on your symptoms. There are so many things that could cause this problem, but without a more clear description, it's impossible to know.

Does it groan and then jerk slightly when you try to close it? Does it get close to the end and reverse? etc.

I can tell you that the pop on open is most likely the power release actuator and depending on what you mean by number 2 it may also be caused by the door latch actuator.

I suspect a worn out door roller is causing the won't close issue, but again, without a more clear description, I can't be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hard to describe prior symptoms. At this point the door is literally stuck open and cannot be manually closed. I am wondering if there a limited list of issues that might cause this. It goes a fifth or so of the way and literally cannot move past that spot.
 

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Hard to describe prior symptoms. At this point the door is literally stuck open and cannot be manually closed. I am wondering if there a limited list of issues that might cause this. It goes a fifth or so of the way and literally cannot move past that spot.
You have not provided your year and trim level (basic 101 for online forum is to let readers know of this information). You won't get lots of responses on this board w/o this information. Anyway, I assume you have an Odyssey 2005-2010 EX trim or above. If yours is not, then disregard my reply.

Each sliding door is closed/opened via the Cable Motor Unit housed in each side of the rear quarter panel. The driver side is a bit easier to access than the passenger side because the passenger side has the rear HVAC.

First, I would disconnect the battery then see if you can close/open the door now. If it is still a no-go then read on. Note that you will need to have your radio code, dvd code, and NAVI code handy if you disconnect your battery.

I can only think of two possible causes in your case.
1st is that your sliding door is physically obstructed from closing by either something broken or binding to a worn part. An obvious scenario comes to mind is the mid-roller possibly already lost the plastic rollers and now the metal pins are digging into the track. Note that there are only 3 possible contact points of your sliding door to the vehicle while the sliding door is moving--the top roller, the mid-roller, and the bottom roller. The top and bottom rollers rarely become an issue on this board. 99% of the time, it's the mid-roller that causes the issue. That said, you need to check bottom roller compartment to make sure that it is clear of trash and debris that easily have collected in there over the years.

2nd possible cause is that your Cable Motor Unit ceased up due to your neglect of the sliding door over the years. Cease-up here means it stops allowing the cable to wind and unwind freely when your sliding door button is deactivated. Fortunately, you can test this theory with not too much of a hassle by disconnecting your battery then perform the same procedure like you were going to replace the mid-roller (removing the tail light, front and rear screws of the rail cover, and disconnect the 2 ends of the cable from the mid-roller). Now pull on each end of the cable and see if each end would go. If you can pull each end freely then the issue is not at the Cable Motor Unit.

Warning: if your decide to remove your mid-roller, your first need to trace an outline of its position to the door before removing it. Otherwise, you would have not a so good time to adjust it back with a new replacement unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You have not provided your year and trim level (basic 101 for online forum is to let readers know of this information). You won't get lots of responses on this board w/o this information. Anyway, I assume you have an Odyssey 2005-2010 EX trim or above. If yours is not, then disregard my reply.

Each sliding door is closed/opened via the Cable Motor Unit housed in each side of the rear quarter panel. The driver side is a bit easier to access than the passenger side because the passenger side has the rear HVAC.

First, I would disconnect the battery then see if you can close/open the door now. If it is still a no-go then read on. Note that you will need to have your radio code, dvd code, and NAVI code handy if you disconnect your battery.

I can only think of two possible causes in your case.
1st is that your sliding door is physically obstructed from closing by either something broken or binding to a worn part. An obvious scenario comes to mind is the mid-roller possibly already lost the plastic rollers and now the metal pins are digging into the track. Note that there are only 3 possible contact points of your sliding door to the vehicle while the sliding door is moving--the top roller, the mid-roller, and the bottom roller. The top and bottom rollers rarely become an issue on this board. 99% of the time, it's the mid-roller that causes the issue. That said, you need to check bottom roller compartment to make sure that it is clear of trash and debris that easily have collected in there over the years.

2nd possible cause is that your Cable Motor Unit ceased up due to your neglect of the sliding door over the years. Cease-up here means it stops allowing the cable to wind and unwind freely when your sliding door button is deactivated. Fortunately, you can test this theory with not too much of a hassle by disconnecting your battery then perform the same procedure like you were going to replace the mid-roller (removing the tail light, front and rear screws of the rail cover, and disconnect the 2 ends of the cable from the mid-roller). Now pull on each end of the cable and see if each end would go. If you can pull each end freely then the issue is not at the Cable Motor Unit.

Warning: if your decide to remove your mid-roller, your first need to trace an outline of its position to the door before removing it. Otherwise, you would have not a so good time to adjust it back with a new replacement unit.
Thank you so much for this detail. It’s a 2007 Touring and muzzled. Along the way I’ve greased the tracks and always have been good about keeping them clean. I’ll get back to you after I disconnect the battery.

If I do have to replace the mid roller is there a go-to unit people like on the boards?

Thank you again.
Dave
 

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If I do have to replace the mid roller is there a go-to unit people like on the boards?
Genuine Honda part from Majestic or Bernardi. It is not an expensive part.
 

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I have a feeling that the cable jumped out of the groove at the motor.

I have seen the ones even without a roller for mid hinge and they kinda can manually close the door about 4/5th and then gets stuck right where the hinge has to turn 90 degrees so that the door will seal the opening. Until then, it is pretty straight shot so it should not bind IF it was just mid roller issue.
 

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I had a similar problem with my driver side sliding door 6 months ago. I had literally used it and it worked fine, drove home 10 miles, and after opening it at home to take something out, it would not close even manually.

In my case the cable broke and jammed up in the motor. I had the shop I took it to disconnect the cable and now use it as a manual door.

I may try to get an aftermarket replacement cable and fix it myself at some point. The shop would only get a whole new motor/cable assembly (Honda doesn't sell just the cable) which would have cost over $500 just for the part as I recall, not something I want to pay at this stage of the vehicles life. Right now I'm living with a warning message on the dash about checking the door, which goes away if I advance to another screen, and the i with the circle which is always lit. The only other nuisance is there is no detent to hold the door open so if you park on a downward slope the door will want to slide closed.
 

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The only other nuisance is there is no detent to hold the door open so if you park on a downward slope the door will want to slide closed.
This is probably a separate issue. All doors, even in manual mode, have a latch in the lower track that should latch when fully open and unlatch when the handle is pulled or the door is activated in some way.
 

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This is probably a separate issue. All doors, even in manual mode, have a latch in the lower track that should latch when fully open and unlatch when the handle is pulled or the door is activated in some way.
Thanks, I'll have to take a look at that sometime.
 

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Thanks, I'll have to take a look at that sometime.
I believe people have had an issue with it related to a spring in the mechanism that falls out/breaks, preventing the mechanism from engaging. There should be some threads for it.
 

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I may try to get an aftermarket replacement cable and fix it myself at some point. The shop would only get a whole new motor/cable assembly (Honda doesn't sell just the cable) which would have cost over $500 just for the part as I recall, not something I want to pay at this stage of the vehicles life. Right now I'm living with a warning message on the dash about checking the door, which goes away if I advance to another screen, and the i with the circle which is always lit. The only other nuisance is there is no detent to hold the door open so if you park on a downward slope the door will want to slide closed.
I see some of the hack jobs to repair the cable motor unit, but I would not do or recommend any. Instead, just buy a used unit off Ebay as your replacement. The cable motor unit is not known for failure. Most of the time the roller issues such as a worn mid-roller causes excessive load which in turn shorten the lifespan of the Cable Motor Unit.

Replacing the Cable Motor Unit is not a complicated task, but it is rather a tedious job. Hence, lots of panel pulling, missing clips, etc. That said. I would rather do two of these than an alternator replacement job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you all for your help. Since I am getting rid of this van relatively shortly I went the route of a reasonable cheap Amazon mid-roller. That has been replaced as mine was blown to bits (both rollers gone, etc.). However that has not solved the problem. It looks like the black covering over the cable on the motor side has been stripped away and a strand or two o the cable has broken (I found some of it wrapped around itself, I cleaned that part up). I am guessing that the other side of the broken part cable strand is stuck in the mechnism of the motor and not allowing the cable to be fed out. From what you know and in your experience is it even possible for me to fix this. I guess what I'm asking would taking the panel apart actually allow me to unstick what would be a wound portion of cable and possible cable sheathing in some part of the motor assembly?
 

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Thank you all for your help. Since I am getting rid of this van relatively shortly I went the route of a reasonable cheap Amazon mid-roller. That has been replaced as mine was blown to bits (both rollers gone, etc.). However that has not solved the problem. It looks like the black covering over the cable on the motor side has been stripped away and a strand or two o the cable has broken (I found some of it wrapped around itself, I cleaned that part up). I am guessing that the other side of the broken part cable strand is stuck in the mechnism of the motor and not allowing the cable to be fed out. From what you know and in your experience is it even possible for me to fix this. I guess what I'm asking would taking the panel apart actually allow me to unstick what would be a wound portion of cable and possible cable sheathing in some part of the motor assembly?
this guy sell the kit (never bought from him before so I can't say about quality, but seem pretty nice - but there also is instruction so maybe you can look at the instruction):
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
this guy sell the kit (never bought from him before so I can't say about quality, but seem pretty nice - but there also is instruction so maybe you can look at the instruction):
Thank you. This is super helpful. Curious, do you or anyone else here have any idea how to open this pulley? I don't want to break it in my random attempts. I have dismantled everything, but this pulled remains jammed up with something inside that i cannot seem to get out.
 

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Thank you. This is super helpful. Curious, do you or anyone else here have any idea how to open this pulley? I don't want to break it in my random attempts. I have dismantled everything, but this pulled remains jammed up with something inside that i cannot seem to get out.
The pulley is most likely just jammed up with cable remnants. I believe it can take quite a bit of force to remove in these situations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The pulley is most likely just jammed up with cable remnants. I believe it can take quite a bit of force to remove in these situations.
I ended up cracking a piece of the plastic housing and got it all out. There was no way that was ever going to pass (it was huge)......Now i've reinstalled the motor and the module and there is no response from that door....will check fuses in the morning unless there are other suggestions or info the community is aware of.
 

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I ended up cracking a piece of the plastic housing and got it all out. There was no way that was ever going to pass (it was huge)......Now i've reinstalled the motor and the module and there is no response from that door....will check fuses in the morning unless there are other suggestions or info the community is aware of.
You may have to do the reset procedure after motor reinstallation.
 
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