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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, all! I have exhausted all other options in attempting to fix my 2007 Odyssey issues, and hope someone can shed some new light on things.

Before I describe the issue in detail, let me preface things a bit:
  • I have seen many similar forum posts across the web about my issue, some with partial overlap and 1 or 2 with my EXACT issue - none have had any resolution (this discussion seems to continue to this day on some threads)
  • I believe the end conclusion will be the same as others: probably a short or bad gorund, and the only real course of action is to spend boatloads of time diagnosing everything in great detail (which I really can't do for lack of skill and also not having access to a Honda HDS scan tool), and/or replace things until the problem is resolved (which is a very expensive and shotgun-approach), or sell the vehicle. I realize this, but am giving it one last go here at Ody Club :)
  • I'm really hoping that a detailed description of all the symptoms and codes narrows it down enough to rule a lot of things out. At least that way I can go shotgun-approach from close range, so to speak.
-Thank you in advance for an insight!

On with the description(s):
I have a 2007 Odyssey EX that, since a few days after I bought it used to replace my previous '07 Odyssey that got rear-ended, has had the following issues:
-VSA and /!\ light come on intermittently, and at the exact same moment the A/C stops blowing cold air. These issues are always only present together. (The sliding doors don't work either when the vehicle is "on" or engine running, which I understand is because it can't get wheel speed info when VSA/caution lights are on, per a Honda Service bulletin from 2011, details here: autoserviceprofessional.com/article/102073/can-t-open-this)
-The problem will persist AT LEAST until the car is turned off and back on, although that doesn't always solve it.
-The gauges all drop to zero sometimes when the issue is present, with the exception of the GAS gauge, which always works. I can be experiencing the VSA/AC problem and the gauges will be working, then they'll suddenly all drop, and sometimes they'll suddenly come back on. Even when the come back on the problem persists, but this only happens when the problem is present.
-This issue seems more common when it's hot outside or the vehicle has been out in the sun, and is least common when starting in the garage in the morning.
-When the problem is not present, it sometimes happens spontaneously while driving normally, but is more often brought on when hitting a pothole or speed bump a bit rough.
-I've disconnected things, cleaned grounds and plugs and checked fuses, etc, 2 times now, and both times the problem seemed to go away for an extended period of time (not randomly popping up), but hitting a bump a little to hard started the problems back up again eventually in both cases.
-One time the vehicle would not start at all - it would crank strong but not turn over, and then I realized it was the immobilizer because the green key light was on. I resolved this by moving the steering column up and down and in and out a few times. Haven't had the problem since and I don't see anything unusual in that area, although it's hard to access well.
-All of The LED lights on the climate control panel, and only that panel, flicker faintly most of the time, I believe even when the problem is not present (except for after the first time I disconnected and cleaned things under the hood and everything worked fine for a few weeks. The lights were solid during that time)
-CEL is also on, and the following codes were pulled previously (can't get codes currently because the issue is present, and the scan tool can't seem to connect):
  • 83-1 ECM/PCM relation malfunction
  • 86-1 CAN regulation malfunction
  • U0028 Vehicle Communication Bus A
  • P2649 A Rocker Arm actuator control circuit high (bank 1)
  • U0155 lost communication with instrument panel cluster control module
Other pertinent info:
-I just got the vehicle back from a very highly-rated shop that specializes in electrical issues, and they've been all through the harness(es?) and didn't find anything there. They will take a look at it again after the Thanksgiving break, but didn't have room to keep it for now. They said they believe it's caused by a component somewhere (specifically one that would have a reference voltage, so not a 2-wire)
-I have checked and cleaned all the grounds in the engine compartment and behind the driver and passenger kick plates, as well as 1 way up behind the steering wheel.
-On other very similar forum posts, someone mentioned that they replaced the PCM and it didn't fix the problem, which is why I've avoided that expensive attempt. Although I've toyed with the idea of opening up my PCM to check for craacked solder joints or any other physical issues on the board.
-I have the (very awesome) AlldataDIY service manual for this vehicle, and therefore all the power/ground diagrams, engine code troubleshooting steps (which often eventually require the HDS scan tool, unfortunately) and picture locations of things, etc etc.
-I've done my best to trace affected components to a common source, usually grounds in the engine compartment, and cleaned and tightened all of them.
-Something makes me think it's the actual plug going to the PCM, specifically connector B, the gray one in the middle. Seems like many of the related things come back to that connector. But at the same time it could easily be a short or bad ground (although maybe the PCM grounds on that connector! Ahhhh, ugh)

Sorry for the book, but hopefully I've tried to cover everything I can think of to eliminate as much guess work as possible. I'm sure I've forgotten something, but I'll add it if I remember. Let me know your thoughts, please, and again, THANK YOU in advance for any help. It is much appreciated by me and my family :)
 

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I have same exact issue what you have with my 2007 Odyssey EXL. It came up after Rebuilding four valves, bent due to timing belt. I have all signs VSA, ABS, TPMS, Brake light, SRS bag light, engine light, and none of my gauge and odometer are working except fuel gauge. I got 3 DTC code by MCU short on my Dashboard b1168, b1169 and b1170. i am planning to take it to honda. Let me know if got any fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have same exact issue what you have with my 2007 Odyssey EXL. It came up after Rebuilding four valves, bent due to timing belt. I have all signs VSA, ABS, TPMS, Brake light, SRS bag light, engine light, and none of my gauge and odometer are working except fuel gauge. I got 3 DTC code by MCU short on my Dashboard b1168, b1169 and b1170. i am planning to take it to honda. Let me know if got any fix.
Hi, Sily!

I may actually be able to help you (and me if you can confirm)! After lots more troubleshooting, I may have solved my problem. I'm not sure why these things would show up for you after the work you described, but maybe something I say will ring a bell. If not, then it's likely that your issue is caused the same thing or type of thing, but in a different place perhaps.

First, out of curiosity, can you tell me:
1. Does this happen intermittently for you? If so, anything that seems to make it more/less likely to occur (such as hot/cold temperature, hitting bumps, etc)
2. Do you have any other engine codes that I described?

Anyway, on to how I managed to resolve it, at least seemingly. So the week before last I got it back from the electrical shop that wasn't able to find anything definitive, and I poked around over the holiday break. Fortunately, I started it on a cold evening and the lights were off (except for CEL). Knowing that hitting a bump could cause it to come on in my case, I decided to 'simulate' bumps with a rubber mallet in very specific areas to see if I could localize the problem. So I popped the hood proceeded to tap on things with a bit of force, with the car running:
First, I banged on the ECM (in front of the main fuse box). Walked around and checked the lights, nothing.
Then I moved the 3 ECM plug cables around quite a bit, nothing.
Third, I moved around the harness that went along the back of the engine and the connectors mounted there. Nothing.
Fourth I hit the solenoid on the rear driver side of the engine a few times (VTEC/rocker arm?), and jiggled around the two 2-wire cables plugged in there. Nothing.
Lastly, I hit on the fuse box and little auxiliary fuse box, walked around and BOOM, all lights on.

So, I turned off the car and removed the fuse box, disconnecting all the harnesses from the underside. There was quite a bit of dielectric grease on everything, so I cleaned up the contacts themselves and in the plugs with contact cleaner and compressed air. Put everything back together and started it....lights still on :(

So then the next day I started the vehicle and the lights were off again. I had my wife look at the lights while I whacked around again, and sure enough, they came on again when I hit the fuse box. So then I went to the local junk yard and pulled the fuse box off an 06, identical, with all fuses for $17 after tax.

I swapped out the fuse boxes, checked all the fuses, and started the car. LIGHTS STILL ON! :( :(

Then, later that night when I started it the lights were off again, so I started poking around in the cabin. The moment I jiggled the largest plug/harness going into the fuse box behind the PASSENGER KICK PLATE, the BOOM, LIGHTS WENT ON. Now I started thinking that, since I believe there is wiring going from that fuse box straight to the main under-hood fuse box AND they're in close proximity, that my hitting under the hood jiggled some wiring or the vehicle on that side enough to vibrate that passenger fuse box. I wasn't moving things nearly as roughly here as I had with the rubber-mallet under the hood, so it made sense that it was something pretty sensitive. I noticed that this fuse box was a but dustier/dirtier than the drivers-side one, and there was a bit of white corrosion on the test points on the 7.5A fuse closest to the door. After turning the car off, I pulled that fuse, which wasn't blown, wiped it off a bit with my fingers and reinserted it flipped around. Turning the car back on and the lights were off. After that, no amount of jiggling or anything has turned any of the lights back on. It's been driven a bunch since, hit plenty of bumps, and no issues.

HOWEVER, my A/C still does not blow cold. I confirmed that the COMPRESSOR is not running, so I can't really test the pressure. It works when it works, so I doubt it's a coolant problem.

So I went back to the junk yard and pulled the passenger kick plate fuse box, with fuses, for another $17 and plan to replace mine completely and check all the harnesses, etc. I plan on doing that tonight, so I'll let you know if it solves my A/C electrical issue.

So, think if anything related to that fuse box was touched when you did your work, or any of the wiring between there and the main under-hood fuse box, and LET ME KNOW. I'd love more information to help rule possibilities in/out.

I will also say that I checked the wiring diagram and other documentation on that fuse box, and a number the F-CAN is referenced a number of times (and I have F-CAN codes). So I'm guessing it's a pretty basic electrical issue that's affecting multiple systems. SEEMS like a ground thing, if I had to guess, but I'm open to other opinions.

P.S. I do have an ALLDATADIY subscription if there's anything in particular you have a question about or need more information on. I think this would all be much easier with the Honda HDS tool, so let me know if you can't fix and plan to still take it to Honda. I'd love to know what they say.

I'll report back after I replace that fuse box/if I find anything! Good luck!
 

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All signs stay on since new valve replaced before 1 month. I tried to get code with Ancel AD610 Elite OBDII scaner but it shows error cannot communicate. Do you think I should try with Honda HDS and it will communicate. You was able to find code with Honda HDS? I checked my instrument panel according to Honda Manual and it is good. I will check fuse box under hood and ECU connection as you said and will also check all fuses on weekend for corrison. Thanks for your help
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, I was also unable to get codes pulled with an OBDII scanner while the issue was present. Not sure if HDS would still work, but do you even have access to a Honda HDS tool? If so, definitely go get the AllDataDiy for the vehicle and follow the diagnostic procedures for the codes you have if it works. But that's like a $10K tool, I believe.

Let me know what you find out from an inspection of your passenger kick plate fuse box. Also, check all grounds under the hood (there's like 6 or 7), behind the driver kick plate/fuse box (2) and the one by the passenger kick plate fuse box (just 1, I think). Check all these fuse boxes: fuses, relays and harnesses/plugs, grounds, etc.

It definitely sounds like a computer issue, but that can be caused by a short or very commonly by bad grounds (which might be the case for both of us, such as a ground wire in one of the fuse box harness plugs (not just the body ground points)).
 

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I don't have honda HDS but planning to buy one from ebay for $110. I will check passenger kick plate fuse box and let you know, its freezing here in NJ.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd be weary of those Chinese knockoffs, as I've heard they don't always work properly, or don't come with everything needed. Read the reviews carefully, and make sure there is a good return policy. Also, still don't know if it'll work since OBD2 isn't working, but good luck!

I was just in south Jersey last week visiting family. It was quite brisk, indeed! If you're lucky, another warm front will come through with 50+ degree weather! 🤞

Check all 3 fuses boxes I mentioned, if you can, as well as all fuses themselves. Double check all your grounds, as well, including battery cables and attachment at the posts.

Stay warm!
 
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