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Oh, and the oil comes by the rings that get dirty and stuck. That's why the remedy from Honda was to put new piston rings in the affected engines.
 

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Oh, and the oil comes by the rings that get dirty and stuck. That's why the remedy from Honda was to put new piston rings in the affected engines.
So that sounds like a chicken and the egg thing. If the rings have to be dirty from the oil to allow the oil into the chamber...to then dirty up the rings. See my conundrum... Something has to happen first right...
 

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OK, you seem to know better than everyone else. I'm done. If you want to prevent problems, install a VCM defeat device. If you think you know better than everyone else, then don't install it.
 

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If you think you know better than 4-5 years of aggregated knowledge here and want to reinvent the wheel go right ahead. This has been discussed here for years now. Read the FAQ below. Make your own decision. You go right ahead and replace your mount with a $100 aftermarket. You'll want to smack yourself as I guarantee you'll be doing it again within a year. Again, everyone here knows that because it's been reported here too many times to count.

Dont take me asking questions for reinventing the wheel. But i've been repairing cars for a lot longer than 4-5 years and in my experience its usually only the people that don't actually repair vehicles themselves that think that OEM parts and their markup are the only way to go. It's usually not even hard to find better than OEM quality in the aftermarket world. I mean OEM bmw suspension components most of the time is Lemforder. Let's say a lemforder part off an ebay seller is 50 bucks. If I try to order OEM from a BMW dealer, they will ship me the same lemforder part in a BMW bag at 2-3 times the cost. Take it as you will. I come from more of a sports car and racing world and realize the DIY level is probably different in the minivan game but seriously, we should save recommending 700 buck engine mounts for the hourly people at the dealership and a not a DIY forum IMO.

...and lets be serious, even the crappiest mount out of the deepest caves of chinese child slave labor is going to last way longer than a year. Even at 2 years it's going to take me 14 years before I'd be a the same cost point as a 700 dollar mount. That's like the most ludacris price I've ever heard of, If people are really paying for that and labor I'd almost just volunteer to put in peoples mounts in my driveway out of charity and pity just to help.
 

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So that sounds like a chicken and the egg thing. If the rings have to be dirty from the oil to allow the oil into the chamber...to then dirty up the rings. See my conundrum... Something has to happen first right...
The 'crux of the biscuit' is that the VCM has issues that cause problems. 'Muzzle' the VCM and you solve the problem. Over the years, many on the forum have discovered that this resolves the problem. Many times, excess oil consumption is reduced, and piston ring failure avoided. You can also install the less expensive non-active motor mounts.
To quote another obscure song lyric, you don't tug on Superman's cape and you don't doubt the sage advice from the great John Clark. :sneaky:
 

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Dont take me asking questions for reinventing the wheel. But i've been repairing cars for a lot longer than 4-5 years and in my experience its usually only the people that don't actually repair vehicles themselves that think that OEM parts and their markup are the only way to go. It's usually not even hard to find better than OEM quality in the aftermarket world. I mean OEM bmw suspension components most of the time is Lemforder. Let's say a lemforder part off an ebay seller is 50 bucks. If I try to order OEM from a BMW dealer, they will ship me the same lemforder part in a BMW bag at 2-3 times the cost. Take it as you will. I come from more of a sports car and racing world and realize the DIY level is probably different in the minivan game but seriously, we should save recommending 700 buck engine mounts for the hourly people at the dealership and a not a DIY forum IMO.

...and lets be serious, even the crappiest mount out of the deepest caves of chinese child slave labor is going to last way longer than a year. Even at 2 years it's going to take me 14 years before I'd be a the same cost point as a 700 dollar mount. That's like the most ludacris price I've ever heard of, If people are really paying for that and labor I'd almost just volunteer to put in peoples mounts in my driveway out of charity and pity just to help.
Yeah, lets compare BMW garbage with Honda. Ok. Yes, you can buy a BMW branded part or a Bosch part...same part different price. I've been around. I know the drill. Good luck with your eBay and Amazon fakes, too.

Good luck with the aftermarket mounts (I'm talking about the ACTIVE mounts, not the basic rubber ones on the EX and LX.) Do some searching and you'll find that there are no aftermarket mounts that last much more than a year. There are some here who do this much more regularly than you know and have much more experience than the "4-5 years" you mention. That's just how long the defeat devices have been out and preventing VCM damage. I know when I need an OEM part and when I can get a good quality aftermarket. I have hundreds of orders from RockAuto over the last few years but I am choosy of what I buy there.

You do what you want. I'm not sure why someone as smart as you needs to be on a forum asking/taking advice from others. Those who brag they know more than others usually don't. Good luck.
 

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Again, it's all over the forum here and even the professional mechanics on YouTube agree about the mounts. Here's just one. Skip to 3:00 into the video. He has links to Amazon which I've found can often be fake. They could be authentic but I wouldn't trust Amazon anymore, especially when the seller is not a Honda dealer. Again, the idea is to prevent them from failing and disabling the shaking that goes on with VCM definitely makes them last longer. I have 223K on my van, original active mounts. Not sure why I'm even bothering posting this but someone else might be reading this wanting some good advice.

 

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The 'crux of the biscuit' is that the VCM has issues that cause problems. 'Muzzle' the VCM and you solve the problem. Over the years, many on the forum have discovered that this resolves the problem. Many times, excess oil consumption is reduced, and piston ring failure avoided. You can also install the less expensive non-active motor mounts.
To quote another obscure song lyric, you don't tug on Superman's cape and you don't doubt the sage advice from the great John Clark. :sneaky:
I am not immune to being wrong...it happens--quite a bit actually. I'm not wrong on this, though. Some people don't want to be convinced no matter how strong your argument or evidence. That seems to be the case here.
 

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A quick Google search brought up the following where professional mechanics recommend against the aftermarkets. I'm sure there are many more as the topic comes up quite often. I've seen plenty where people say they replaced with aftermarket and they have failed again or have broken:




Here's one of someone with a subsequent failure of an aftermarket mount. I know there are more but it's late and I'm done searching for tonight.

 

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Yes, if you use the VCMTunerII or the S-VCM you can switch over to passive mounts. If you were to remove the device for any reason you might not be too happy.

The active mounts from Honda have been in the $500+ range. Last time I looked at Bernardi they were $700. It's a Ludacris price for sure but if you don't want to do the job again you need to stick with the genuine part. If someone can show me an aftermarket mount that lasts more than a year or two I'd love to know about it.

If you do it yourself you can afford to do it multiple times. If you have to pay someone else to do it multiple times, that's another story indeed.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
That theory about a coil pack being the cause of a gummed up plug is incorrect, especially in a VCM Honda where cylinder 4 is part of the VCM system. I guarantee there's nothing wrong with your coil pack.

Did you remove the back three plugs and look at them? Cylinders 5 & 6 are not usually problems. Just 1-4.
Looks like you were right. My wife took it out longer today and the light came back, now it's throwing 300, 304, and 305. Crazy, cylinder 5 wasn't even involved initially and I didn't touch that coil pack or spark plug. Serves me right for not checking the back set. VSA came back too but you have to drive it to capture those codes.

Now it's also showing red indicators on CAT and EVA, I think it's just some kind of reading instead of a regular code. The ODBII reader is new to me. I think EVA stands for evaporative system and CAT has something to do with the catalytic converter. My wife said VSA came back too but I'd have to drive it again it to record those codes again because they don't store and they have never shown up right when you start it.

Do you actually think the VCM Tuner II is going to resolve many of these? I feel like I learned all this too late. I'm seriously considering getting rid of the van rather than messing with it.

155463
 

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The red indicators mean the readiness monitors haven't run. That means the computer hasn't finished running those.

Not sure on the P0305. That's not a VCM cylinder. If this was mine, I'd replace all 6 plugs and install the VCMTunerII. It will definitely help. Get it installed ASAP.

The misfire codes aren't always 100% correct so a misfire on one cylinder can often cause a code for another cylinder.
 

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FWIW, even if muzzling the VCM does not solve your issues (I think it will solve most), it is still something you should do. It’s a no-brainer for any one driving an EX-L or Touring model Odyssey.
 
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