Honda Odyssey Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It seems like I am having at least 1 issue that I have seen with my own eyes with the A/C system. There may be others but I know I have this one. The problem seems to be hit and miss where I have the system on full cold mode and the passenger side window vent and the center vent on the passenger side is blowing cold where the the center vent for the driver and the drivers side window vent is blowing hot air. It seems that this issue is exacerbated when it is hotter outside say 85 to 90 degrees and up.
I have run the temperature up for full heat and then down to full cold and looked under the dash at the blend door motor on the drivers side and blend door levers and it seems that the motor has not completed the full rotation to the cold positions where the blend door should be completely in one position and the heater control valve should be 100% off. I can then unplug the power connection then plug it back in and the blend door motor will complete the travel distance which is probably ¼ inch of travel left where the round tab slides in the center of the tracks of both levers, (blend door and heater control valve).
I figured it was a blend door issue so I ordered a new one from Rock Auto roughly $50 I don’t think the cheapest or most expensive. I install it and I have the same exact problem where it is not completing the travel until I unplug the power to it and plug it back in. That being said. Is this a motor issue? Does it need to be programed? If so how? Is it some type of control panel issue? Does the control panel need replacing or programed, if so how? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanking you in advance.
 

·
Registered
2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
This is very likely not even a blend door problem. It's very likely that it's just your system being on low refrigerant. Get the system professionally evacuated and recharged, do not use one of those cheap recharge cans that you get at the store.
 
  • Like
Reactions: geotek and thscott

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is very likely not even a blend door problem. It's very likely that it's just your system being on low refrigerant. Get the system professionally evacuated and recharged, do not use one of those cheap recharge cans that you get at the store.
Don't kill me, just asking to educate myself. What is wrong with the "CHEAP RECHARGE CANS"?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,144 Posts
Don't kill me, just asking to educate myself. What is wrong with the "CHEAP RECHARGE CANS"?
Two things:

1) you can’t recharge based on pressure. So those DIY can gauges are useless. A proper charge is based on mass not pressure. You have to start with a known evacuated system and then add the specific mass of refrigerant called for. If you add from a can you have no clue how much refrigerant is in the system.
2). The DIY kits often include additives such as sealants or conditioners that can damage the compressor. Best to use pure refrigerant with no additives.
 

·
Registered
2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
Don't kill me, just asking to educate myself. What is wrong with the "CHEAP RECHARGE CANS"?
What thscott said. They are not recharging with the right amount, and they kill your A/C system with additives.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What thscott said. They are not recharging with the right amount, and they kill your A/C system with additives.
Thank you. Pretty sure I have just used the plain freon not the ones with the sealants. Looking for a good honest local shop to evacuate and refill but I still need to find out what is going on with that blend door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Two things:

1) you can’t recharge based on pressure. So those DIY can gauges are useless. A proper charge is based on mass not pressure. You have to start with a known evacuated system and then add the specific mass of refrigerant called for. If you add from a can you have no clue how much refrigerant is in the system.
2). The DIY kits often include additives such as sealants or conditioners that can damage the compressor. Best to use pure refrigerant with no additives.
Thank you. Pretty sure I have just used the plain freon not the ones with the sealants. Looking for a good honest local shop to evacuate and refill but I still need to find out what is going on with that blend door.
 

·
Registered
2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
Thank you. Pretty sure I have just used the plain freon not the ones with the sealants. Looking for a good honest local shop to evacuate and refill but I still need to find out what is going on with that blend door.
How do you know you have a blend door issue? As I said, refrigerant can cause this issue. Speaking from experience too. One day, I noticed my Odyssey had warm air on the driver's side with cold on the passenger's side. I restarted the car and the problem seemed to disappear. However, I found out later that I was low on refrigerant. One recharge later, the problem went away. It hasn't come back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How do you know you have a blend door issue? As I said, refrigerant can cause this issue. Speaking from experience too. One day, I noticed my Odyssey had warm air on the driver's side with cold on the passenger's side. I restarted the car and the problem seemed to disappear. However, I found out later that I was low on refrigerant. One recharge later, the problem went away. It hasn't come back.
I have run the temperature up for full heat and then down to full cold and looked under the dash at the blend door motor on the drivers side and blend door levers and it seems that the motor has not completed the full rotation to the cold positions where the blend door should be completely in one positon and the heater control valve should be 100% off. I can then unplug the power connection then plug it back in and the blend door motor will complete the travel distance which is probably ¼ inch of travel left where the round tab slides in the center of the tracks of both levers, (blend door and heater control valve).

I figured it was a blend door issue so I ordered a new one from Rock Auto roughly $50 I don’t think the cheapest or most expensive. I install it and I have the same exact problem where it is not completing the travel until I unplug the power to it and plug it back in. That being said. Is this a motor issue? Does it need to be programed? If so how? Is it some type of control panel issue? Does the control panel need replacing or programed, if so how? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanking you in advance.
 

·
Registered
2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
Joined
·
3,465 Posts
I have run the temperature up for full heat and then down to full cold and looked under the dash at the blend door motor on the drivers side and blend door levers and it seems that the motor has not completed the full rotation to the cold positions where the blend door should be completely in one positon and the heater control valve should be 100% off. I can then unplug the power connection then plug it back in and the blend door motor will complete the travel distance which is probably ¼ inch of travel left where the round tab slides in the center of the tracks of both levers, (blend door and heater control valve).

I figured it was a blend door issue so I ordered a new one from Rock Auto roughly $50 I don’t think the cheapest or most expensive. I install it and I have the same exact problem where it is not completing the travel until I unplug the power to it and plug it back in. That being said. Is this a motor issue? Does it need to be programed? If so how? Is it some type of control panel issue? Does the control panel need replacing or programed, if so how? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanking you in advance.
I wouldn't worry about this potentially non-existent issue until you have your system professionally evacuated and recharged. You need to eliminate that variable.

FWIW, most blend door issues are not the blend door itself but the blend door actuator:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I wouldn't worry about this potentially non-existent issue until you have your system professionally evacuated and recharged. You need to eliminate that variable.

FWIW, most blend door issues are not the blend door itself but the blend door actuator:
Thanks called some shops today. Trying to find a reliable place that can get me in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,144 Posts
Just got off from the Firehouse and went to the Honda Dealership right down the road being they had already looked at it. I'm having them do an evacuation and a re-charge and go from there.
Hopefully the dealership does not gouge you with an exorbitant price. It should be around $150 or less.
 

·
Registered
2012 EXL. 2013 Touring
Joined
·
409 Posts
Don't kill me, just asking to educate myself. What is wrong with the "CHEAP RECHARGE CANS"?
Here is what is wrong. Your system holds approx. 24 ozs. of Freon. If it is low there is no way to find out how much. If you take this 12 or 18 can and use it to add “some”. There is no way to tell how much you are adding. You are betting your system on the response of the plastic and rubber valve seals. The gauge shows you are a little low, so you try to add a little bit and see what happens. If when you open the valve the whole can goes in because when you close the valve it does not work. Then the system goes into high limit shut down and you have no cooling at all because it is overcharged. When you remove it you might lose your entire charge because the connector has damaged the schrader valve.
if you use the Freon with leak detector in it, be sure it is the correct type, not all ddetectors are safe. The wrong kind can block your expansion valve and other small orifices. The same goes for “sealers”, they can block ports. Your system is 12 years old, you need to determine whether it is normal leakage over time or a problem in the system. So, with trial and error you can do more damage than good trying to learn air conditioning recharge.
Your evaporator is position more to the right of the car and the cold gas comes into the evaporator side closest to passenger side of the car. That is why it is warm by you and cold on the other side. I hope this help you understand that some of Honda’s faults can not be cured by good common sense reasoning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,427 Posts
There is no way to tell how much you are adding.
Actually, a scale is a very good way of telling how much is being added, if less than full can. Full cans have a marked weight. The real problem is that you don't know how much you started with, and so never know how much is in the system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thscott
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top