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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Folks,

Got few issues and not sure which ones might be related. I'm a noob so want to apologize in advance :)

1 - My 2010 Odyssey EX started having dead battery issue. I thought it would be the AC Relay again so I replaced all 3 Relays under the hood - this did not fix the issue. Got Battery tested and it was good. Got Alternator / charging system tested and also good. Then learned about doing the drain test using volt meter and found current draw to be 0.43 amps.
Started pulling fuses and narrowed it down to #7 on fuse box next to driver's feet. If I pull that fuse, current draw drops to 0.03 amps.

2 - Before the battery drain issue, horn stopped beeping when pressing lock twice on OEM remote.
It still seems to lock the doors but no more horn/beep or light flash as earlier.

3 - Lock cylinder on driver door handle stopped working. I can insert the key to lock/unlock but key keeps spinning without stopping (doesn't matter which direction) and door does not get lock/unlock.
(Pointed this out to shop doing charging system check and person said that someone might have tried to break into it by using screw driver or something, but could not help check.)

There seems to be only 1 cylinder to manually lock/unlock using key; which got us in trouble when battery died and remote would not work (luckily window was down enough to get door unlocked).

Searched this forum and looks like micro switch on sliding doors are the problems (most of the times) when it comes to parasitic battery drain. Both sliding doors are working fine and there does not seem to be any visual/physical indication to suggest any issue with sliding door.

Anyone has gone through similar issues? Any suggestion?

Thanks.
 

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It could still be a rear latch issue. They're known to cause a 0.4 amp draw on the #7 fuse.
 
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As said, the 0.4 amp drain is often the rear door latch issue.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the quick response.

Any suggestions on how I could find out which sliding door could be causing the issue?
 

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A bi-directional scanner can pull the body codes. Or if you don't have access to one, there's a jumper trick to blink out the body codes on the cluster. This post has a link to the video showing how to do this: 2005 Odyssey Sliding door problems.
 
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Definitely try blinking out the body codes, though I'm skeptical if it will actually help in this case, since you didn't mention having a slide door light on the dash. Worth a try though.

If not, you might just have to take both door panels off and check out the connection for each latch and seeing which one has the draw.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thank you for the suggestions.
Using foil to pull the code worked (just like video.)

Dashboard showed following:

b1140 30
b1222 51
end

Anyone able to tell what those mean?
 

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Interesting. No rear latch codes. B1222 is pretty common at this age. Rear mode control motor. You may notice that if you turn the rear air on, switching between floor and ceiling vents doesn't work.

B1140 appears to be an issue with the driver's window position detection.

Maybe @hpark21 has something from the service manual that can help with that?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, I guess those are unexpected.

Does any of the 2 codes explain battery drain?

Maybe power window linked to #7 fuse?
 

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Thanks, I guess those are unexpected.

Does any of the 2 codes explain battery drain?

Maybe power window linked to #7 fuse?
It likely is related. You could start there and check.
 
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Interesting. No rear latch codes. B1222 is pretty common at this age. Rear mode control motor. You may notice that if you turn the rear air on, switching between floor and ceiling vents doesn't work.

B1140 appears to be an issue with the driver's window position detection.

Maybe @hpark21 has something from the service manual that can help with that?
Here it is:
Font Number Electric blue Document


Font Number Screenshot Event
 

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Thank you for that.

Unfortunately, I do not have access to HDS.
You don't need HDS, it's just asking you to read codes, which you've already done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks for those instructions.

Auto Up & Down works.

I guess next step would be to clear the codes and see if they come back?

Edit:
For other noobs like me, found YouTube Video that goes well with instructions provided by hpark21:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, looks like battery drain is still there.
Going to prioritize fixing the Door Lock Cylinder first.

Please let me know if there are other thoughts on batter drain.

Thank you.
 

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As said earlier in this thread, the side/sliding door rear latch module is a very common cause of parasitic battery drain. Usually 0.4 amps. Have you addressed this as a possibility or have you ruled it out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you for response.
I've not ruled out the sliding door rear latch (switch) yet since I'm trying to figure out which sliding door might be causing the issue.
Body codes did not show related code and there are no other visual indicator.
Is there any other method to narrow it down?

Also, I got the door lock cylinder replaced by lock smith; they confirmed that someone tried breaking-in and in that process, they also broke the switch that's attached behind the door lock cylinder.
They said that security and other electrical functions could be tied to it (e.g. double key turn to unlock ); this might also explain why vehicle horn no longer beeps when pressing lock on remote twice.

Any thoughts on how to get that switch replaced?
I tried searching but not sure if I found the right part or how to replace it.
(72182-SHJ-A01 Switch Assy., L. Cylinder )?

Automotive lighting Gesture Steering wheel Finger Motor vehicle
 

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Thank you for response.
I've not ruled out the sliding door rear latch (switch) yet since I'm trying to figure out which sliding door might be causing the issue.
Body codes did not show related code and there are no other visual indicator.
Is there any other method to narrow it down?

Also, I got the door lock cylinder replaced by lock smith; they confirmed that someone tried breaking-in and in that process, they also broke the switch that's attached behind the door lock cylinder.
They said that security and other electrical functions could be tied to it (e.g. double key turn to unlock ); this might also explain why vehicle horn no longer beeps when pressing lock on remote twice.

Any thoughts on how to get that switch replaced?
I tried searching but not sure if I found the right part or how to replace it.
(72182-SHJ-A01 Switch Assy., L. Cylinder )?

View attachment 164224
IF there are no body codes, it makes it a bit more difficult. Is there any doors that takes longer time to latch on? (Like it will pull in the door, but it would hesitate before letting it out).

As for your key cylinder switch (step 6 and 7 looks like it):
Motor vehicle Font Parallel Diagram Auto part


White Organ Organism Font Line

Leg Human body Jaw Organism Font
 
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