Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I searched around the forum and youtube for info on how to replace a door lock cylinder but couldn't find anything on the 2011-2016, so this is how I did it. Probably not the right way, but whatever, it worked, so I hope this helps someone else.

I bought a 2011 some years ago and the door lock never worked. I never really knew what was wrong with it and never needed the valet key, but when my wife locked her keys in the ody a few weeks ago, she insisted I fix that door lock. Yes my Queen.

Once got it out, his what the guts of the cylinder looked like. Maybe a thief jammed a screwdriver in the lock and buggered it up. No amount of giggling was going to get this to work.

1. Remove the interior panel. Good video here.

Below is the assembly you need to remove. The door cylinder is bolted to a plate inside the door. The cylinder assembly has an "axle" with an egg beater four toothed gear at the end. It's one long assembly you have to take out as a unit, I think. That axle is riveted into the end of the lock cylinder so I don't know how you'd remove the axle without destroying it.
In this picture the actuator, big white plastic thing, is out of the way showing the cylinder axle and four toothed gear end that inserts into the actuator. Given that it's plastic, I'll bet these actuators get stripped pretty commonly.
In this pic below, the actuator is out of the way and out of frame. Those three holes on the door jam + one screw on the inside of the door are what hold the actuator in place. It's the three hex bolts on the door frame.


2. Move the window track out of the way. This is key. First remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the window track in place. You can just sort of push it out of the way to the right. In this photo below, the track is unbolted and pushed over at the 45 degree angle. Didn't seem to screw anything up by moving it like this and my window still works after reassembly.

3. I had to remove the vertical rod that connects from the outside door handle down to the actuator. When you pull the outside handle this rod pushes down and unlatches the door.
There's a white plastic clip that attaches the top of the rod to the door handle assembly. This was really hard to release. I had remove the bolts holding the handle in place so that I could get to that white plastic clip from the outside of the door, with a screw driver prying it loose. It didn't break! Not sure this was completely necessary but I think it's in the way of removing the cylinder. If I were going to do it again, I might try not removing that rod. It was a PITA.

Top of the rod showing the white plastic sleeve that keeps it in the door handle. If your outside door handle has stopped working, but the inside still works, it likely has something to do with this guy.

4. Three hex bolts and one black screw to remove the door actuator, so you can slide it down and out of the way. The socket in the lower right corner of this pic shows where the door lock axle gear inserts into the actuator. Confusing picture because the actuator is flipped around facing the camera, but when it's in place it faces away and that socket is at the top.

5. Unbolt the cylinder plate thing that holds the cylinder in place. In this photo it's the thing that has TKS on it. Bolt is already out in this image in lower right.
Once the bolt is out, rotate that plate counter clock wise to about 1 o'clock and the slots will align and you can pull the whole assembly back toward you and out.

6. I've read somewhere that you can rekey these things, but I just bought a whole new assembly with two keys already keyed for the new cylinder. I got it from 72185-TK8-A01 - Genuine Honda Cylinder, L. Door

Getting the axle into the actuator and then getting the actuator back up and in place was not easy but that axle has a rubber joint that allows you to point it down and fit it into the actuator before you move the actuator into place. It's the only reason I can think of for why that would be a flexible joint

7. Bolt everything back in place and test the handle and the key before you put the interior door panel back on. Yep, didn't do that. See below.

If you remove the door handle rod, that thing with the white plastic keeper that goes between the door handle and the bottom of the actuator, make sure it doesn't get bent when you remove it, or when you put it back in place. If it gets bent it will be shorter and wont travel far enough to actuate the door latch on the actuator. Here's how you'll know. If the inside door handle works to release the door latch, but the outside doesn't, it's probably that arm is bent or detached. Another good reason to not remove it, if you can avoid it. Once I figured that out, I straightened it a little bit, and it worked fine.

Hope this helps someone, someday, with a gen 4 ody.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts