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We have a. 2011 with 135k that we bought new. We've some most of the work on your list:
1. Piston rings on 1-3, that was done within the first 10k miles
2. Alternator replaced around 70k
3. The thing is eating batteries, we just put our third one in last week, fortunately the first replacement came from the dealer with a lifetime warranty, we're replacing them roughly every 2-3 years.
4. Rear spring coil seats at about 125k miles

We haven't had any front end work done (yet). I would carefully check to make sure transmission fluid has been replaced on schedule.

Other than that, it has just been routine maintenance and a timing belt replacement at 105k. The driver's side dome light is out but we haven't replaced the fixture it (it's not the bulb).

But last week, while it was in for battery #4, the dealer told us the oil pump seal and power steering pump are both leaking. PS pump is a pretty easy DYI for about $150 or so (versus $850 dealer quote). Oil seal repair was quoted at $1800 but I'm going to try some AT-250 sealer first
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Why do the batteries die? I had thought i had a gremlin in an 11 rdx but turns out the batteries from Costco are just absolute shit.. the CS rep said they get more than half in returns within the first 6 months..

I finally got what I wanted and taking delivery on the van Tues. The last recorded transmission flush was easily over a year ago. I'll make it a priority to have it flushes my first oil change.

Do people recommend new plugs regardless of their usage after putting in a muzzler? I'm going to order one this week so I can do that as soon as possible.
 

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I don't know why the batteries keep dying, Honda has a crappy battery supplier I guess? We've been fortunate in that we've always gotten the "change battery" warning on the dash and haven't been left stranded.

we changed spark plugs when we had the timing belt replaced.
 

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Why do the batteries die? I had thought i had a gremlin in an 11 rdx but turns out the batteries from Costco are just absolute shit.. the CS rep said they get more than half in returns within the first 6 months..

I finally got what I wanted and taking delivery on the van Tues. The last recorded transmission flush was easily over a year ago. I'll make it a priority to have it flushes my first oil change.

Do people recommend new plugs regardless of their usage after putting in a muzzler? I'm going to order one this week so I can do that as soon as possible.
These vans are loaded with electronics and are quite hard on batteries. That, and it almost sounds like imref has a weak alternator if they keep getting the battery warning on the dash. These vans are picky about alternators - a lot of complaints about parts house alternators being too weak on Odysseys. The OEM alternators do commonly fail around (or even before) the 100K mark, but many of them also last longer. Mine only lasted ~77K. The only safe bet is a Denso reman, although, I have a parts house reman in mine (installed by the previous owner) and it's gone about 10K miles without a single issue. The output on mine appears to be strong enough when I tested it with a voltmeter, so maybe I got lucky.

Costco batteries are made by Interstate... same battery supplier to Honda. The battery I currently have in my van is a Honda-branded Interstate. They're not any worse than other batteries.

Be careful when you request a "flush" if you're going to a shop. A flush on a non-Honda means hooking it up to a pressurized machine. A flush on a Honda means a 3x drain and fill.

Did you purchase the original van you inquired about or another one? How many miles are on the current spark plugs?
 

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I don't know why the batteries keep dying, Honda has a crappy battery supplier I guess? We've been fortunate in that we've always gotten the "change battery" warning on the dash and haven't been left stranded.

we changed spark plugs when we had the timing belt replaced.
What brand of alternator did you use? It sounds to me like the alternator might be weak. These vans are picky and aftermarket alternators that are not reman'd by Denso frequently don't put out enough output. If the battery was weak, it typically will not have enough juice to start the car after sitting overnight. You shouldn't see the battery light while the car is running, since your alternator should be continually charging the battery while the car is running.
 

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What brand of alternator did you use? It sounds to me like the alternator might be weak. These vans are picky and aftermarket alternators that are not reman'd by Denso frequently don't put out enough output. If the battery was weak, it typically will not have enough juice to start the car after sitting overnight. You shouldn't see the battery light while the car is running, since your alternator should be continually charging the battery while the car is running.
it was replaced by the dealer under HondaCare so I assume OEM?
 

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it was replaced by the dealer under HondaCare so I assume OEM?
Hmm, yeah, I suppose it should be OEM. Really weird that the battery light comes on when the car is running, though...
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Be careful when you request a "flush" if you're going to a shop. A flush on a non-Honda means hooking it up to a pressurized machine. A flush on a Honda means a 3x drain and fill.

Did you purchase the original van you inquired about or another one? How many miles are on the current spark plugs?
Yes, I ended up getting the original 11 EX-L from the beginning of this post at the dealership. Based on the service records it shows that plugs 1-4 were done may 2019 or about 13,000 miles. No other mention of the other plugs being replaced.. weird... I've just sent a message for a muzzler so I'm thinking if I'm going to install that I might as well go and get a fresh set of new plugs..
 

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Yes, I ended up getting the original 11 EX-L from the beginning of this post at the dealership. Based on the service records it shows that plugs 1-4 were done may 2019 or about 13,000 miles. No other mention of the other plugs being replaced.. weird... I've just sent a message for a muzzler so I'm thinking if I'm going to install that I might as well go and get a fresh set of new plugs..
I'd leave the plugs alone if they only have 13K miles. But, if only 1-4 were changed, the other 2 plugs ought to be changed too.
 
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Sorry @jiantao stupid question about the atf flush and fill 3x method. Is this something someone should do annually? If i asked my mechanic which is a Honda garage would be know what I'm asking for? Or what I'm reading is some people opt for a flush and fill every other oil change. Effectively replace the B1 with a flush and fill to save on cost and I think the B1 is really a way for dealerships to make a little money..

thanks!
 

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Sorry @jiantao stupid question about the atf flush and fill 3x method. Is this something someone should do annually? If i asked my mechanic which is a Honda garage would be know what I'm asking for? Or what I'm reading is some people opt for a flush and fill every other oil change. Effectively replace the B1 with a flush and fill to save on cost and I think the B1 is really a way for dealerships to make a little money..

thanks!
It's a good question. The key is to keep the fluid clean. A drain and fill only removes something like half the fluid, so you still have about half of the fluid in there that is old. When you do one D/F, you have ~50% new fluid. A second D/F, now ~75% new fluid. A third D/F, now ~87.5% new fluid. So, even with the 3x drain and fill, you still have a little bit of old fluid in there, but it's close enough.

The preferred method for many is to just keep the fluid clean. Instead of changing it 3x every 30K miles, changing it 1x every 10K miles is better since the fluid stays clean. You can just ask for a single drain/fill every other oil change and you should be good.
 
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Discussion Starter #32
Last maintenance record lists transmission flush 25k miles ago. Should I do a 1x moving forward next oil change and then every 10k? Or do a 3x and then 1x everywhere 10k?
 

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Please stop using the term flush. It is absolutely forbidden around here. A normal transmission fluid service is a drain & fill, replacing appropriately 1/3 of the fluid. That is all the regular 30k maintenance interval calls for. The service bulletin on the 6 speeds does call for a "flush" with specific instructions and warnings. That is done to replace most of the fluid to fix an issue. Sometimes it even needs to be done twice. Once that is done, along with the software update (the latest one, there were a couple over the years) normal service should be adequate. To many of us, normal is every other oil change (15k) instead of every 4th (30k). If one is changing the fluid at home and you do wish to accomplish a full "flush" then you do a drain & fill, drive in a way that runs the trans through all the gears, including torque converter lock up. Out on the highway, not just around the block. So if one is having this done at a shop that isn't a Honda dealer, having them change the fluid each oil change is probably the best bet. A shop that is not a dealer is not going to know the weird ways of a Hondamatic. (Or run the van on the rack or take it out on the road necessarily) Here is the service bulletin:


There is another, that basically says send in another snapshot and do a full fluid replacement again. The service bulletins are listed, by year, in the "stickies" at the top of this forum section.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks @egads I'll bring it into Honda for my first drain and fill.

I'll then get my regular garage to just do a single drain and fill every other change.

Thanks for the guidance everyone.
 

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Thanks @egads I'll bring it into Honda for my first drain and fill.

I'll then get my regular garage to just do a single drain and fill every other change.

Thanks for the guidance everyone.
You don't need to do the 3x drain and fill if it was last done 25K miles ago. I would just have your regular garage do a 1x drain and fill on your next oil change, and then have them do a 1x drain and fill on every other oil change afterwards.

They should know, but make sure they use a compatible fluid. Some on this forum swear by using the OEM DW-1 fluid. Many of us, myself included, use Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. My independent mechanic uses Castrol Transmax.
 

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You don't need to do the 3x drain and fill if it was last done 25K miles ago. I would just have your regular garage do a 1x drain and fill on your next oil change, and then have them do a 1x drain and fill on every other oil change afterwards.

They should know, but make sure they use a compatible fluid. Some on this forum swear by using the OEM DW-1 fluid. Many of us, myself included, use Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. My independent mechanic uses Castrol Transmax.
My shop only carries OEM or Enoes atf. Anyone have experience with that stuff?
 

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My shop only carries OEM or Enoes atf. Anyone have experience with that stuff?
Not familiar with Enoes. Request OEM fluid.
 

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minivans are always in demand, if you want a better deal go with a lower mileage well maintained Gen 3 touring.

The one youre interested in, has a solid documented maintenance record.
you will be hard pressed to find all those repair items, done on many other mystery / neglected odysseys.

if the carfax is clean, you should go for it.

+1 on disabling the VCM, 3x drain and fill on the ATF fluid, and youre good for a while besides tires and brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
It had new pads and rotors done during the recon from the dealership... They spent another few k fixing random bits and electrical issues like the rear wiper motor not working.. so I'm hoping it's good for another 100+k... That would be wicked!

I noticed it's got a bit of peel on the roof. Searched the forums and seems to be a common issue, can't expect perfect for a 10yr old car.
 

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It had new pads and rotors done during the recon from the dealership... They spent another few k fixing random bits and electrical issues like the rear wiper motor not working.. so I'm hoping it's good for another 100+k... That would be wicked!

I noticed it's got a bit of peel on the roof. Searched the forums and seems to be a common issue, can't expect perfect for a 10yr old car.
its a good deal for a 100k minivan...white color?

alternatively, you could drop 60k tax in CAD on a 2021 odyssey plagued with electrical and transmission issues.
:ROFLMAO:
 
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