Honda Odyssey Forum banner
1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I'm going to apologize for the long winded post and its going to be a dump of info for context.

We've had our 2011 EXL for about 6 yrs now with 105k miles on it (its a US model and we live in Canada)
Since about 2 months into ownership the frontend always felt off to me, best way to explain it is something is sloppy/weak, like when you have bad stabilizer end links or tie rods etc. starting off noises, going over jumps and so on...
We had some 3rd party extended warranty on it (for whatever it was worth), so for the first year it was in and out of Honda a lot, to the point where i felt parts were randomly replaced.
Fast forward to now, it still feels like an old clunker and I have zero faith in my Honda dealership (even having a red seal tech look at it) esp being out of warranty, so looking to the community for things to look for and replace my self (if need be).

Here is a list of all the replaced components in the order they were done by the dealership:
1) installed aftermarket (AM) steering rack
2) installed OEM steering rack (as the problem came back 3 months later) - I see in the Honda invoice they noted reusing the inner tie rods on the new OEM rack...
3) installed new AM CV shafts (set 1) - they have lifetime warranty
4) installed new AM CV shafts (set 2) and new AM stabilizer end links
5) installed OEM rear and right side motor mounts - this prompted me to installed VCM tuner II
6) installed new AM drivers side CV shaft
7) installed OEM front quick struts - i swapped these out myself

I had the van on front jacks stands this morning and here are the things I checked:
- the CV shafts have play back and forth and side to side - I'm not sure if it should be rock solid or not, suspect some play. Also the passenger CV boot is now torn.
- stabilizer bar and endlinks did not have any play when I moved them around, i suspect load on them should be reduced when on stands and this is an adequate test?
- looked at the stabilizer bar bushings, and appeared ok, again no see or heard play
- lower control arm bushings have some cracking, but appear to be intact
- no visual breaks or leaks in the tierods or ball joints boots
- drivers side transmission mount (not sure if there are more then 1) visually looked ok, but no idea how to test properly

Additional info that might help:
  • shifting into gears from park is loud (IMO)
  • when down shifting around 35-40km/h seems hard and felt more then any other gear - just did a drain and flush with DW1 thinking it could be the fluid here, I have 2 more to do in the near future
  • turning the steering wheel from side to side very quickly when parked can hear some clunking/play

I don't want to start replacing parts, but I'm willing to put the time in if I can confirm things are shot.
My gut is telling me either I have really bad luck with CV shafts (or/and likely they are complete AM junk) or something else is wearing things prematurely - motor or transmission mounts?

Looking for advice on how to check things properly and how much play should be in CV shafts.
My sister in-law has a 2019 and it didn't feel much play on them - but its also a different generation and may not directly apply.

Really I just want this van to feel tight and last us another 3-5 yrs trouble free :(
As of now, this thing does not hold up to the honda quality i've been used to, heck my buddy's 2013 grand caravan feels better then this thing...

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Maybe it's not the drivetrain or steering...could be a suspension issue. You haven't replaced the control arms yet. They are not difficult to replace once the ball joint is loose. But I'm sure they are good or the dealer would've replaced them. Maybe try a carfax history report on the vehicle to see if it was in an accident once. Maybe talk to your alignment shop. This is a tuffy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
im going to say front struts, even with those low miles.

mine is the same year and slightly more miles, and the front struts are getting noisy on harsh roads and speed bumps.

rest of my front end is new, 2x LCA, 2x axles, 2x link kits 2x tie rods.

rear shocks are new last summer, replaced with KYB's and new honda OEM spring seats.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
I replaced both Axles last fall with new aftermarket units. I too have a “clunk” when shifting into gear. A replacement unit (lifetime warranty) is waiting for me to install it next week. $hit happen$
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
im going to say front struts, even with those low miles.

mine is the same year and slightly more miles, and the front struts are getting noisy on harsh roads and speed bumps.

rest of my front end is new, 2x LCA, 2x axles, 2x link kits 2x tie rods.

rear shocks are new last summer, replaced with KYB's and new Honda OEM spring seats.
Thanks, my thought was the struts as well, which i replaced last year, no luck.
If someone can help me out, and willing to go under their ody and confirm how much play their CV axles have.
Maybe i'll post a video on mine and see what everyone thinks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
guess I missed that... so the pre-existing issue you are trying to isolate, was not corrected by the strut replacement?
throwing parts at a problem is never a solution.

also, quick struts from monroe are junk and will last 5 years...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
guess I missed that... so the pre-existing issue you are trying to isolate, was not corrected by the strut replacement?
throwing parts at a problem is never a solution.

also, quick struts from monroe are junk and will last 5 years...
correct, the issue still exists.
The strut replacement was my doing, as the last thing attempted after seeing a torn boot and after all the stuff honda swapped - also the struts are OEM, quickstrut in the sense its a new full assembly, spring, cap, etc.
My gut is telling me its either the axles or stabilizer components.

Here is a video I took of the drivers side, the passenger side has a bit more play.
The end links are dirty but hard to tell if they are leaking - again felt ok when on stands, maybe I should apply pressure with a pry bar to test.
Drivers Side

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
everything looks ok...
axles will not cause the sloppy suspension or ride feel as you describe.
either they will be noisy or cause vibration.
link kits are not too expensive, and not much of a financial gamble to rule out
usually when I change struts the link kits get changed too.

standard rust belt undercarriage, you should consider getting a krown rust control done to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
everything looks ok...
axles will not cause the sloppy suspension or ride feel as you describe.
either they will be noisy or cause vibration.
link kits are not too expensive, and not much of a financial gamble to rule out
usually when I change struts the link kits get changed too.

standard rust belt undercarriage, you should consider getting a krown rust control done to it.
The issue is noise and clunking at times - I don't expect this to handle like an s2000, but do hold Honda to certain ride quality level.

Links and sway bar bushings was on my short list plan.
Any suggestions on a brand? I believe Honda installed Moog the last time, I've heard they are not what they once were since moving manufacturing.
We have an online parts store like rockauto which would save me the shipping, they have: transit, moog, delphi, mevotech

For the axles the online store carries cardone and worldparts...
Locally I can get something made by surTrac or something, has lifetime on the unit, 1 yr on the boot.
OEM is 4x the price
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
mevotech supreme has a lifetime warranty, but I have had some comebacks with them recently.
no issues with refund/replacement, but doing the job twice isnt ideal.

moog is hit and miss, if you get their parts manufactured in Taiwan, the quality is good.
if its manufactured in china, not so much.

No no no on CarDone
trakmotive also lifetime guarantee (except for the boots)

if youre going to use rockauto, use the odyclub discount code for 5% off.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
How about tires? When I purchased my 2013 EX 2 years ago I felt the steering was kind of sloppy and wrote it off to the softer ride than my 2006 LX. Then started playing with tire pressure, found running 2 lbs. higher than recommended front and rear tightened things up a good bit. The ride is a little more firm but still comfortable
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How about tires? When I purchased my 2013 EX 2 years ago I felt the steering was kind of sloppy and wrote it off to the softer ride than my 2006 LX. Then started playing with tire pressure, found running 2 lbs. higher than recommended front and rear tightened things up a good bit. The ride is a little more firm but still comfortable
Thanks, I don't think TP would cause the noises, but never know. Generally sits around 34psi for the TPS system.

My research continues, from things it looks like the inner axle joint is what causes the clunk on take off and into gears, with the passenger side having the intermediate shaft being a stress point on our vans.
What aftermarket axles brands have people had success with?
@2011.2017.odyssey Trakmotive would be more reliable in your opinion?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
Thanks, I don't think TP would cause the noises, but never know. Generally sits around 34psi for the TPS system.

My research continues, from things it looks like the inner axle joint is what causes the clunk on take off and into gears, with the passenger side having the intermediate shaft being a stress point on our vans.
What aftermarket axles brands have people had success with?
@2011.2017.odyssey Trakmotive would be more reliable in your opinion?
i don't own any shares in rockauto or trakmotive, but can tell you I have had a lot of axle vibration nightmares.
The trakmotives are a good price point and lifetime warranty, so it's hard not to choose them.

have had the occasional comeback say 1 in 15, but the warranty makes up for that.
which cant be said for the dealer axle, which is 30 days or 30 feet.

also, rockauto has been solid on warranty returns.

partsource in canada sells them as well, if youre concerned about returns / warranty / shipping etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update: spoke with the parts manager at honda and explained the ordeal and history of repairs, they ordered all new axles (TM) and end links (mevotech prem) for me (at the serviced discount cost, which is cheaper then anywhere local), since they have lifetime warranty they will straight exchange them pending no torn boots - no waiting for vendor confirmation they are defective. Sadly the passenger side axel has a torn outer boot, so i'll be out that cost.
Will also order the sway bar bushings and swap the plugs while i'm doing all this.

There are 3 plugs i can see for this:
  • Iridium IX : LKR7DIX11S
  • Laser Iridium High Ignitability (OE replacement) : DILZKR7A11G
  • Ruthenium HX High Ignitability: LKR7AHXS

The IX being the cheapest, then Ruthenium and the laser the most, any thoughts on the plugs? I read several threads on the Rutheniums with good success.

Also reading the service notes on file, Honda also recommends adjusting the valves...this is new to me, does that sound accurate?

Thanks again
 

·
Registered
2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
Joined
·
2,597 Posts
Laser Iridium plugs are the only thing I'd consider. Sure, Ruthenium is technically better, but they're not the OE replacement and the originals already last 105k. Not much more I'd want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,639 Posts
the rutheniums are technically a lifetime plug after changing out the originals, but since they are relatively new to the market have not seen how the hold up for the long haul.
have installed these on multiple vehicles with no issue.
8 bux a plug is not unreasonable, and rockauto has the best prices on them and will be guaranteed authentic.

otherwise go with OE replacement.
 

·
Registered
2012 EX-L, >125k miles, VCM Tuner, Honda tow pkg.
Joined
·
809 Posts
I suspect the sway bar bushings are contributing to the sloppiness so it is good that these will be replaced. Also, regarding the noise when shifting into gear, have you done any trans service? I would do a 3x drain & fill if this has not been done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I suspect the sway bar bushings are contributing to the sloppiness so it is good that these will be replaced. Also, regarding the noise when shifting into gear, have you done any trans service? I would do a 3x drain & fill if this has not been done.
Thanks, yes purchased 10L of DW1, and have done 1 drain and fill, will do another in a week, then the 3rd in month or so.
After the first D&F, no difference felt yet. I'll likely do the 2nd when I change the axles, since I'll loose some fluid there.

Changed out the sway bar bushings this afternoon, easy enough, they had some outwear, but nothing too bad like dry rot or cracks/chips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Also just placed an order for the RU plugs form RockAuto with our code (thanks odyclub), they are 5$ cheaper each and can buy 6 versus 2-4pks.
I like they have the same ignition tip design as the lasers vs the IX traditional tip, so that gives me some level of assurance around performance.
Should get them in a couple weeks.
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top