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tips are the same...rockauto will be 3-5 days to Canada, they use fedex which doesn't mess around.

what I love about them, can order parts for family in various locations and ship it to them.
 

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MIcco,

Please describe again what you are feeling / hearing and under what conditions.

I say this because our 2012 Ody had issues a while back with what I took to be either a bad sway bar endlink, a strut assembly, or maybe a CV axle. There was a little noise, but it was more the weird feel with slight clunk when reversing directions and turning. I inspected struts for dry top hat bearings / binding dust covers. Symptoms did not go away with new Honda OE strut assemblies (like you described). CV axles and control arm bushings seemed solid.

Finally found the issue - TSB on re-greasing the steering column spline joint ! Again, it didn't feel/sound like this could fix the problem, but it did.
 

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looked at the stabilizer bar bushings, and appeared ok, again no see or heard play
Good idea to replace the stabilizer bar bushings anyway. They get soft over time causing front end roll on turns, and generally sloppy handling.

However, they won't cause the noise you mentioned unless they are really beaten up.

OEM bushings are very reasonable online.

Bush, Stabilizer Holder
51306-STX-A12

Put a light coat of grease on the bushing interior to stop squeaks from the bar twisting within.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Hi All,

update:
  • sway bar bushing done, applied some silicone grease to the inside - Honda OEM
  • Installed 2 new axles, passenger side was sloppy, drivers was fine, but swapped it anyway since Honda will warranty it regardless.
  • installed 1 sway bar end link on the drivers side, it was ok, but I could feel slight play when testing each joint.
  • 2nd ATF drain and fill done

The shifting in and out of gear is definitely smoother and things feel better, however still the odd bump/clunk.
@mariner4 thank you for that info! I will look into it, and also wouldn't have even considered it.
Is this the TSB you're referring to?
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/A07-065.PDF

Side note, although this is "work", it brings me back to pre-kids, fixing and tuning my boy racer cars - I miss it to some degree (since it was a hobby).
:D
 

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you said you changed mounts, however check that front active motor mount that you didn't change, for clunks esp in and out of gear.
hood open, foot on the brake, have someone take it from park to drive to reverse.
see if there is excess lateral movement
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
you said you changed mounts, however check that front active motor mount that you didn't change, for clunks esp in and out of gear.
hood open, foot on the brake, have someone take it from park to drive to reverse.
see if there is excess lateral movement
Good idea!
I posted another video in the share 2011 ody - engine movement, I had my wife move b/w D and R with some slight throttle.
I'm not sure what would be considered reasonable movement, thoughts?

Also what about transmission mounts? Note sure how to test those aside from visual inspection.

thanks
 

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fairly audible click or clunk im hearing when in gear, was that the bad axle?

the forward movement seems a bit excessive.

I would post a video of mine for reference, but my teenager has taken control of the van.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
fairly audible click or clunk im hearing when in gear, was that the bad axle?

the forward movement seems a bit excessive.

I would post a video of mine for reference, but my teenager has taken control of the van.
The video was taken tonight, after everything was changed, so that is with the new axles in...
 

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you changed the side and rear mount according to your first post

only one left is the expensive one, however would be nice to have a comparison to reference.

well done video btw, I think the front one has more movement than the back.

you could unplug the active mount and see if there is no change.
 

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what about transmission mounts
rear mount is one of the transmission mounts, there are a couple of smaller ones, although I havnt heard much of them going on this gen.
since they are just rubber isolaters, visual and pry bar inspection for cracks is the best you can do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
you changed the side and rear mount according to your first post

only one left is the expensive one, however would be nice to have a comparison to reference.

well done video btw, I think the front one has more movement than the back.

you could unplug the active mount and see if there is no change.
I was under the impression the active motor mount was timed with VCM dis/engagement? - I could be completely wrong.
I will test that next, thanks.

If it does need the front, i might just go with AM, since i have VCM disabled, should be less stress on it.
Does that make sense?
 

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I was under the impression the active motor mount was timed with VCM dis/engagement? - I could be completely wrong.
I will test that next, thanks.

If it does need the front, i might just go with AM, since i have VCM disabled, should be less stress on it.
Does that make sense?
you are likely right...

short of DTC errors, there is not a lot of diagnostic info on troubleshooting the mounts.

there are some other concurrent threads on the subject at the moment.
 

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How about tires? When I purchased my 2013 EX 2 years ago I felt the steering was kind of sloppy and wrote it off to the softer ride than my 2006 LX. Then started playing with tire pressure, found running 2 lbs. higher than recommended front and rear tightened things up a good bit. The ride is a little more firm but still comfortable
I would second this but with 2 additions based on my experience of 2015 with all suspension working good:
1) type of tire. Is this a touring type of tire or a truck type of tire? When I went to ltx defender truck tires it immediately trashed my handling. Took this off after 6 months and put back on a nice touring tire, and handling immediately came back.
2) alignment. The van seems sensitive to a proper alignment. With both truck tire and touring tires, if the toe and other aspects of alignment was out it will handle poorly. In my case, the angle of one rear tire was too far in and the car was steering from the rear when changing lanes etc. handling felt very unstable.

Coming from motor sports background, these vans handle incredible so should get to a good place. You have replaced a lot of parts so if they were installed well and working good, may have other areas to look at..
 

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Hi All,

I'm going to apologize for the long winded post and its going to be a dump of info for context.

We've had our 2011 EXL for about 6 yrs now with 105k miles on it (its a US model and we live in Canada)
Since about 2 months into ownership the frontend always felt off to me, best way to explain it is something is sloppy/weak, like when you have bad stabilizer end links or tie rods etc. starting off noises, going over jumps and so on...
We had some 3rd party extended warranty on it (for whatever it was worth), so for the first year it was in and out of Honda a lot, to the point where i felt parts were randomly replaced.
Fast forward to now, it still feels like an old clunker and I have zero faith in my Honda dealership (even having a red seal tech look at it) esp being out of warranty, so looking to the community for things to look for and replace my self (if need be).

Here is a list of all the replaced components in the order they were done by the dealership:
1) installed aftermarket (AM) steering rack
2) installed OEM steering rack (as the problem came back 3 months later) - I see in the Honda invoice they noted reusing the inner tie rods on the new OEM rack...
3) installed new AM CV shafts (set 1) - they have lifetime warranty
4) installed new AM CV shafts (set 2) and new AM stabilizer end links
5) installed OEM rear and right side motor mounts - this prompted me to installed VCM tuner II
6) installed new AM drivers side CV shaft
7) installed OEM front quick struts - i swapped these out myself

I had the van on front jacks stands this morning and here are the things I checked:
  • the CV shafts have play back and forth and side to side - I'm not sure if it should be rock solid or not, suspect some play. Also the passenger CV boot is now torn.
  • stabilizer bar and endlinks did not have any play when I moved them around, i suspect load on them should be reduced when on stands and this is an adequate test?
  • looked at the stabilizer bar bushings, and appeared ok, again no see or heard play
  • lower control arm bushings have some cracking, but appear to be intact
  • no visual breaks or leaks in the tierods or ball joints boots
  • drivers side transmission mount (not sure if there are more then 1) visually looked ok, but no idea how to test properly

Additional info that might help:
  • shifting into gears from park is loud (IMO)
  • when down shifting around 35-40km/h seems hard and felt more then any other gear - just did a drain and flush with DW1 thinking it could be the fluid here, I have 2 more to do in the near future
  • turning the steering wheel from side to side very quickly when parked can hear some clunking/play

I don't want to start replacing parts, but I'm willing to put the time in if I can confirm things are shot.
My gut is telling me either I have really bad luck with CV shafts (or/and likely they are complete AM junk) or something else is wearing things prematurely - motor or transmission mounts?

Looking for advice on how to check things properly and how much play should be in CV shafts.
My sister in-law has a 2019 and it didn't feel much play on them - but its also a different generation and may not directly apply.

Really I just want this van to feel tight and last us another 3-5 yrs trouble free :(
As of now, this thing does not hold up to the honda quality i've been used to, heck my buddy's 2013 grand caravan feels better then this thing...

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks!
I'm surprised your dealer is willing to install after market parts. What does it mean to have the frontend off? Are you getting a vibration? Wandering? It should like the techs you are working with are only guessing and replacing parts. If it was me, I would start by checking the alignment and then check the tires.

CV axles do have side to side play. They should not have up down play.
You should check the sway bar end links when the car is on the ground. When up in the air the weight of the suspension may mask play. Turn your wheel all the way in one direction and grab the end link and see if there is play.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
When I changed the axles I removed the knuckle from the strut assembly, since I couldn't break loose the ball joint.
Is an alignment needed after? happen to see this in another thread, but i wouldn't have thought so...
 

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I removed the knuckle from the strut assembly, since I couldn't break loose the ball joint.
Yes, most likely. For ball joints, a BFH is normally the answer (heavy hammer, hit hard on the arm/socket component, not the the ball joint or stud itself).

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yes, most likely. For ball joints, a BFH is normally the answer (heavy hammer, hit hard on the arm/socket component, not the the ball joint or stud itself).

-Charlie
thanks, ya usually i can get it off by hitting the knuckle...all well I'll have to book an alignment.
Also see a drop of ATF on the garage floor, will have to look into that - hopefully i didn't damage the oil seal installing the axles...sigh...
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Hi All,
So i cleaned up the ATF from the case hoping it was just some leakage from the reinstall of the passenger axle.
Unfortunately there is a slow leak from the axle entry point.

Any recommendations on what to look for - cracked or unseated seal, issue with the axle, etc?

The passenger side doesn't have a retaining/locking ring like drivers side, so it is held in place with mount from the intermediate shaft.

Thanks
 
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