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Hi there.

I own an 11 Ody and had the same problem on a recent vacation. It was hot so I left van running with air con and entertainment system running for kids when I ran into a shop. Half hour later both error message you describe and red battery icon were on.

I immediately thought alternator or battery, but battery was new two months earlier so I started driving back to where we were staying hoping to make it.

Long story short, turns out not to be an alternator problem. I believe it's a battery management issue. The system on the 11s was redesigned; lots of disappointed 11 owners out there. Funny thing is my van has 100.000 miles on it before this problem showed up. Most peeps on the web reporting this problem say it showed up shortly after purchase.

Anyway, see honda service bulletin 11-073 (google urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/A11-073.PDF) for more detail. This may resolve your problem, I haven't had time to get the dealer to apply this service bulletin, but I am confident the message is not originating from the battery or alternator. Returning from my vacation put 1000 miles on the van, the error message appeared a couple times, but the electrical system ran completely normally the entire way.

Best of luck.

Gary
 

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So the alternator was doing its job of charging just not communicating correctly? - for now I can handle the miscommunication and the blinking light. Just wanted to confirm I understood your answer.
 

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In case you're asking me, I think Buffalo4 sums it up well - it was initially a marginally loose connection, but then I needed to learn how to interpret (including knowing what to ignore) and reset the various warning lights and messages.

The car has a pretty advanced system, but not advanced enough to tell me I've got a marginally loose connection. One day ...

3 months later, the alternator is still fine, and after swapping the initial 3-year-old battery into our other Odyssey, no problems in either car.

And BTW on the battery quick disconnect that got a little loose, I replaced the hand knob with a M8-1.25 bolt that I now make sufficiently tight. "Quick" disconnect now requires a 13mm socket, but I can live with that.
 

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sorry to resurrect but my sister is having a similar problem...

after doing some search I came across this post... she drives a 2011EX-L with RES... changed the battery 2 months ago then problems started showing up 3 days ago...

the following have been done to initially diagnose the problem but problem still exists:
1. Checked BMS fuse - fuse was ok...
2. Had the alternator checked by a big box store - passed test
3. checked battery cables for loose connection - tight as can be

After doing all the checks, the "change batt' warning turned off, but came back on the following day...
I just saw the TSB on something similar but since the an is out of warranty, I doubt the dealer will do a flash... but it could be worth a try...

now, should the dealer say no to the fix, what is the alternative thing to do?
 

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I had a very similar problem to most in this thread and it ended up being the alternator. Specifically, i think it was the voltage controller on the alternator, and not the coil part.

My OBDII scanner was only showing < 8v at the ECM when there was > 12v at the battery.

In addition to the "check charge system" warning, the center screen would shut off, and the rest of the dash would start to go black, but the car would seem to run ok.
This would only happen after driving it for a few minutes, and over time would start happening faster and faster.

Over a couple days, the problem would occur right after starting, to the point that we could not drive the car anywhere because it would shut off after idling for just a few minutes (even though the battery showed 12.15v).

I hope this helps anyone else who has a similar problem.
 

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12.15 volts is a battery that's 0.5v low. Check Charging System is almost always a bad alternator.
 

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I am having similar issues. I have tried two batteries and had the alternator tested twice at two separate big box stores with it passing on both occasions. Is there a way where it is still the alternator? Sorry for beating a dead horse just really trying to figure this out ASAP.
 

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I am having similar issues. I have tried two batteries and had the alternator tested twice at two separate big box stores with it passing on both occasions. Is there a way where it is still the alternator? Sorry for beating a dead horse just really trying to figure this out ASAP.
Yes. Having your alternator tested at the "big box store" is NOT a diagnosis. I've seen otherwise good alternators turn on the light.
 

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Actually noticed I had a loose terminal. Got a terminal shims and will try first the tomorrow morning. I am really hoping this is the issue. I’ll keep you all updated.
 

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My apologies for not being more specific in my previous response.

Specifically: After the voltage regulator & diodes were replaced in the alternator, the technician ran another bench test, which indicated the alternator was working correctly, just as it did before they rebuilt it. I reinstalled it and still had the trouble lights, so I called the repair shop. They had me remove it and bring it back in. In the meantime, the owner of the shop reached-out to a company who actually manufactures alternators, to see if they could offer some suggestions. What he found was my alternator, like many of the newer alternators, is a "smart" device. It is constantly communicating with the ECM and other computers on the vehicle. When they bench tested the alternator, after the rebuild, it basically screwed-up the communication pathway between the alternator and ECM. The manufacturer instructed him to replace the voltage regulator & diodes and install it back in the vehicle, without a bench test.

It worked and everything is good!!!!

Hope this helps.
 

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I replaced my battery and alternator and the battery light and check charging system is still showing up I'm not sure what the issue is
 
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