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Discussion Starter #1
My minivan has started to stall when slowing down like coming to stop signs, or pulling into parking spots, etc.. Sometimes it chokes and dies and sometimes it just totally cuts off. I have a new battery and replaced my alternator a few months ago. Starting it back up is not an issue but the other day my wife was making a left turn into the grocery lot and it just died and she had to quickly start it back up and get moving. So now I gotta fix it :) I've read different things all the way to transmission issue but I think first I will do the throttle body cleaning. My question is since I'm starting this, I plan to remove the throttle body as per the Service Manual to clean it, but what else should I be clean that might address this type of issue. The other things I've read is the EGR valve (which I'm looking for cause I'm still not sure where that is exactly lol). but are there any other things I should look at for the symptoms I've described? It only happens when slowing down.
 

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This used to mean a failing idle air control valve, but I don't know if this generation even has one.
 

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Cleaning the throttle body/IACV is a good start. Like earlier stated how many miles, trim level, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is a 2011 EXL with about 118K miles on. Major stuff that was done other than usual oil change, and brakes, was timing chain/water pump replacement via Honda dealer and I replaced the alternator a few months ago. No check engine light. I have Honda HDS if there is anything I should be looking for....As I mentioned when it dies it starts right back up quickly.

I will also look up IAC thank you!

Is there any way to troubleshoot this to rule out the transmission? I read some post which I now can't find it where one person mentioned that the behavior might be similar to how with a manual car if you stop and don't put it into neutral it stalls. So it mentioned whatever that feature is on an automatic transmission isn't working correctly. I tried to tell my wife when it feels like it's going to stall to try shifting into neutral to see if it comes back. (We also have a manual subaru so I get what the article was saying) But she either forgets are sometimes she doesn't have time to shift as it just dies when stopping or slowing down.

But anyway I want to do the stuff that I can handle first so I'm hoping it is just not getting enough air somewhere hence trying to clean the usual suspects first.
 

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What brand alternator did you use? Unusual for a Denso alternator to go bad at 118K miles. Was your valve cover leaking oil? The only time I’ve heard of the alternator failing early is if oil leaks down into the alternator.

As for the engine not maintaining idle... I’d like to understand that alternator. Cheap part store alternators are notorious for going bad quickly. If it’s going bad it’s possibly loading the engine. Just want to rule out a few things.

BTW you should muzzle this thing ASAP. VCM Muzzles are cheap insurance.
 

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There is no IACV on vehicles with electronic throttle bodies. IACV's went away with throttle cables.

The torque converter is what I think you're referring to on the transmission. Usually that manifests itself in shuddering around 20-40mph but could be causing a problem at idle rpm's I guess. Throwing it in neutral would be a good test but changing the fluid a few times and seeing if that helps would also give some insight. It should be done anyway so it's not a waste if it doesn't solve the issue.
 

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There is no IACV on vehicles with electronic throttle bodies. IACV's went away with throttle cables...
FYI, I know that makes sense, and can believe it is usually true, but not always.

My 2001 BMW X5 3.0i has an electrically actuated throttle plate, and also has an IACV.



To make up for that (LOL), the V8s (and many more modern BMWs) have "valvetronic" which does away with both the IACV and the controllable throttle plate. It has a throttle but only for emergency shutoff purposes. Intake airflow is regulated by adjusting the lift of the intake valves.
 

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There's always an exception to every rule. Anything in the early 2000's could be either. Most everything after the mid 2000's is electronic and no IACV.

I can say without a doubt that on all Odys from 2005 and up there is no Idle Air Control Valve (IACV.)
 

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I wonder what the transmission maintenance history is? Has the service bulletin ever been done?
 

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There's always an exception to every rule. Anything in the early 2000's could be either. Most everything after the mid 2000's is electronic and no IACV.

I can say without a doubt that on all Odys from 2005 and up there is no Idle Air Control Valve (IACV.)
Yes John’s correct no IACV but the main throttle is used to maintain idle.

Not sure about transmission servicing would improve idle characteristics but it’s not a bad idea.

Before I would remove the throttle body try some throttle body cleaner spray. It should be safe on parts inside but melt any gunk that may be interfering with the idle. Once clean a good idea to run an idle relearn procedure (thanks John!) to possibly address it. I’ve had good luck with the spray vs disassembly.
 

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At 118K I can't imagine enough carbon in the throttle body to affect idle enough to stall it. The service info doesn't even say anything about checking idle speed until 160K. Anything is possible, though,and I would use a scan tool to check throttle angle first. You'll need a scan tool to do an idle relearn after cleaning the throttle body anyway.

The torque converter is essentially an automatic clutch. If the torque converter isn't working properly it's like stopping a manual transmission car without pushing in on the clutch. It's not a common failure mode but it does happen. Knowing what it does if you push it up into neutral would tell a lot about whether that's actually a possibility or not.
 

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Also clean the Mass Air Sensor (special cleaner sold where the throttle body cleaner is) which can be seen in the snorkel just behind the air filter. Throttle Position Sensor or some kind of throttle pedal problem might let the throttle plate close when the throttle is released instead of holding it open for idle speed. The engine also maintains idle speed when the AC is running - if that's not working, the AC could pull the idle speed too low. As you can see, there are many things that will cause this but most likely you will have to have it professionally diagnosed and repaired.
 

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At 118K I can't imagine enough carbon in the throttle body to affect idle enough to stall it. The service info doesn't even say anything about checking idle speed until 160K. Anything is possible, though,and I would use a scan tool to check throttle angle first. You'll need a scan tool to do an idle relearn after cleaning the throttle body anyway.

The torque converter is essentially an automatic clutch. If the torque converter isn't working properly it's like stopping a manual transmission car without pushing in on the clutch. It's not a common failure mode but it does happen. Knowing what it does if you push it up into neutral would tell a lot about whether that's actually a possibility or not.
makes sense... the restart after the stall would involve putting the vehicle in park.
hopefully @rfedeleo follows your advice on the neutral trick and reports back.
 

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John I clean mine as I run a K&N filter. The oil in the element will vaporize over time and a quick spray cleans that up easily. I’ve noticed with paper filters that cleaning is still a helpful thing. Really depends on how much dust and crap the engine is exposed to.

If they drive dusty roads or lots of wet roads that can cause more buildup at a quicker pace.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok maybe this has something to do with lol! So I'm looking at how to take of the large flexible hose that goes from the airfilter to the throttle body and low and behold their is a huge tear in it. Do you guys think that might do it? Maybe getting too much air? At any rate I will just put some gorilla tape on it for now and see if it happens, in the meantime I'm ordering a new hose and a gasket for the throttle body in the event that I will need to properly cleaning it.
 

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That would normally set a check-engine light... but stalling is definitely a symptom of a ripped intake boot.

-Charlie
 

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Ok maybe this has something to do with lol! So I'm looking at how to take of the large flexible hose that goes from the airfilter to the throttle body and low and behold their is a huge tear in it. Do you guys think that might do it? Maybe getting too much air? At any rate I will just put some gorilla tape on it for now and see if it happens, in the meantime I'm ordering a new hose and a gasket for the throttle body in the event that I will need to properly cleaning it.
how the heck did that happen?!

you can order a used one here, if there is any savings over your other source.

I cleaned my throttle body on the vehicle, and used the scantool to do the reset / relearn.
part of the cleaning procedure involved pressing the gas pedal to the floor (key on) with a small pole / broom handle etc.power seats work great for this...
so that the plate is wide open for cleaning.
use proper shop towels not paper towels, or run the risk of bits and pieces of paper towel getting into the intake inlet while cleaning up.

You can also take it off if you feel inclined, there is coolant going to it, so be mindful to plug the hose.

here are the generic steps...
 

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how the heck did that happen?!

you can order a used one here, if there is any savings over your other source.

I cleaned my throttle body on the vehicle, and used the scantool to do the reset / relearn.
part of the cleaning procedure involved pressing the gas pedal to the floor (key on) with a small pole / broom handle etc.power seats work great for this...
so that the plate is wide open for cleaning.
use proper shop towels not paper towels, or run the risk of bits and pieces of paper towel getting into the intake inlet while cleaning up.

You can also take it off if you feel inclined, there is coolant going to it, so be mindful to plug the hose.

here are the generic steps...
Thanks! this will come in handy! What year is your Honda? I wonder if that will work with 2011. I have no clue how it ripped. I do have a lot of squirrel and chipmunks and funny story, we took our Subaru to a Jiffy Lube and the guy showed my wife a video of a squirrel jumping out of the hood as they opened it up so who knows. Although I will say the tear was right along the inside ridges of the tube so no signs of chewing so who knows.
 
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