A jack and two jack stands will get it done... (well, and some tools)I wish I had access to a lift so I could do this myself, it definitely does not look too hard to do.
Thanks !
Thanks, Charlie ! I was quoted $640 for labor for front and rear + alignment.A jack and two jack stands will get it done... (well, and some tools)
It is sad to me that a shop would charge a significant amount more for about 10 minutes of labor, but here we are. They should want happy customers who use good quality parts (KYB over Monroe, TRQ, FCS, etc.).
Either way, you will still need an alignment when done.
-Charlie
Depends on rust belt or not... I did my rear shocks (leaking) recently with 0 broken bolts, etc. 2016 with ~70k miles, California driven.What is the likelihood of not being able to reuse the existing bolts ?
I am in the San Jose area, so I guess I am safe ....Depends on rust belt or not... I did my rear shocks (leaking) recently with 0 broken bolts, etc. 2016 with ~70k miles, California driven.
-Charlie
Get yourself some PB blaster and shoot the hardware a week in advance and then a couple times that week prior too.I am in the San Jose area, so I guess I am safe ....
hows the odor on mouse milk?Get yourself some PB blaster and shoot the hardware a week in advance and then a couple times that week prior too.
If you really want the best penetrating oil order up some aerokroil or mouse milk. I use mouse milk and only mouse milk. IMO it's at least 10x better than PB. Napa usually has Aerokroil. But its not likey you'll break anything at that age if it's been in cali imost of its life.
FWIW I recently picked up a can of Lucas penetrating oil and am very happy with it. It works at least as well as PB Blaster but no smell whatsoever. I can't say how it performs in comparison to aerokroil or mouse milk but the odorless formulation moves it to the top of my list.hows the odor on mouse milk?
aerokroil really stinks to high hell.
AvE on youtube shoots it to shit on how effective it is.
I have a can and find its creeping ability to be better than most, but the formulation is not best in class.
creeping is half the work with a rust penetrate.
project farm proves brake fluid is still the best.
others have shown ATF and acetone to be quite effective.
I just want something that works and doesn't need you to clear out of the garage after using it.
Since your vehicle is also your daily, I would attack the suspension in stages. Rears on one day, then the front when you have more time.Thanks, Charlie ! I was quoted $640 for labor for front and rear + alignment.
I have plenty of tools, jack and jackstands and will attempt the rear shocks first. Need only to procure torque wrench.
What is the likelihood of not being able to reuse the existing bolts ? this car is my daily driver, so I cannot take the risk that it as to sit waiting for parts...
The front end intimidates me at this point.
I agree, Kroil really smells strong, which is one of the reasons I don't use it much anymore. Mouse milk has a solvent smell, but it goes away quickly. Kroil seems to linger in your garage for weeks.hows the odor on mouse milk?
aerokroil really stinks to high hell.
AvE on youtube shoots it to shit on how effective it is.
I have a can and find its creeping ability to be better than most, but the formulation is not best in class.
creeping is half the work with a rust penetrate.
project farm proves brake fluid is still the best.
others have shown ATF and acetone to be quite effective.
I just want something that works and doesn't need you to clear out of the garage after using it.
^^^^^ Previous owner of mine did his. He ruined the CV axle by not paying attention. Boot slipped off and all he had to do was slip it back on. The Ody is the first vehicle in many years that's burned me by not replacing the output shaft seal too with the CV. I almost never have too. But this one leaked while driving. Not while sitting or in the garage spinning the wheels with it running in the air. Also, if you have a TE you need to disconnect the linkage on the control arm for the suspension position sensor.For the front, just be mindful of the axle sliding out when you remove the suspension. It's not hard to position back in place.
On the rear, there is a jack point in the middle of the rear subframe for lifting. The front jack point is much closer to the front of the vehicle, just behind the radiator core support on the front subframe..my suggestion is to use your jack to raise the rear of the vehicle from the central jackpoint (a bit past the hitch, or where a hitch would be).
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Thanks to all for the very useful tips!!!^^^^^ Previous owner of mine did his. He ruined the CV axle by not paying attention. Boot slipped off and all he had to do was slip it back on. The Ody is the first vehicle in many years that's burned me by not replacing the output shaft seal too with the CV. I almost never have too. But this one leaked while driving. Not while sitting or in the garage spinning the wheels with it running in the air. Also, if you have a TE you need to disconnect the linkage on the control arm for the suspension position sensor.
You are in California... you'll be fine even without it for this work.I have mouse milk on order and will apply over time to let it soak in. I am in no hurry
I forgot about the front one. That one makes life much easier, unless you are me. I have to roll the front of the minivan up on ramps, then go to jack the van up on that central point you indicated. I can't get enough space to operate the jack since the van is lowered and has a front lip spoiler. 😂The front jack point is much closer to the front of the vehicle, just behind the radiator core support on the front subframe..
-Charlie
I keep a few old emergency scissor jacks to lift that first couple inches before I can get the regular jack under the front on my lowered cars... And built a set of low ramps (solid wood) to set them back down on when done (hard to get up safely with manual trans). Its never easy to modify a vehicle.I have to roll the front of the minivan up on ramps, then go to jack the van up on that central point you indicated. I can't get enough space to operate the jack since the van is lowered and has a front lip spoiler. 😂
Update on the shocks/struts: I successfully replaced the shocks and everything went as expected. I used the Honda jack because I could use my Makita drill as the motive force. I do have jack stands so everything was nice and safe. I am going to chicken out for the front struts and ask a trusted mechanic to do it, since he can also do the alignment in his shop and I just saw him at work on my wife's car (tire replacement, 4th flat in 1 year ).I keep a few old emergency scissor jacks to lift that first couple inches before I can get the regular jack under the front on my lowered cars... And built a set of low ramps (solid wood) to set them back down on when done (hard to get up safely with manual trans). Its never easy to modify a vehicle.
-Charlie
Kudos for doing your shocks!Update on the shocks/struts: I successfully replaced the shocks and everything went as expected. I used the Honda jack because I could use my Makita drill as the motive force. I do have jack stands so everything was nice and safe. I am going to chicken out for the front struts and ask a trusted mechanic to do it, since he can also do the alignment in his shop and I just saw him at work on my wife's car (tire replacement, 4th flat in 1 year ).
Thanks for all the help!
I got the KYB Excel G's. They feel a little firmer than the OEM, but I will know more once the fronts are done.Did you end up getting the KYB shocks?
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