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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all

The strut mounts and/or strut bellows/insulators are bad, creaking/making noise.

How long does the front end last on these Odysseys? Front struts, front strut bellows and insulators, front strut mounts, inner and outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, control arm's bushings and ball joints? Is 115k miles a normal time to have to replace some or all of these parts? I'm trying to put a parts order together, and I'm not sure how much to get.

How about how long CV axles last? There is some slight build up on the two front CV axle boots.

Also how long does the PS rack/pinion last? This one has some build up on the bottom due to a small leak. Also some build up at the pump area. Not major PS fluid loss between oil changes (7.5k miles), but definitely some loss. I do have Lucas Power steering leak additive, but I have not used it.

I am debating whether to just do "everything" at the same time, since when some parts start to go, it may not be long before more goes.
 

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Hey all

The strut mounts and/or strut bellows/insulators are bad, creaking/making noise.

How long does the front end last on these Odysseys? Front struts, front strut bellows and insulators, front strut mounts, inner and outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, control arm's bushings and ball joints? Is 115k miles a normal time to have to replace some or all of these parts? I'm trying to put a parts order together, and I'm not sure how much to get.

How about how long CV axles last? There is some slight build up on the two front CV axle boots.

Also how long does the PS rack/pinion last? This one has some build up on the bottom due to a small leak. Also some build up at the pump area. Not major PS fluid loss between oil changes (7.5k miles), but definitely some loss. I do have Lucas Power steering leak additive, but I have not used it.

I am debating whether to just do "everything" at the same time, since when some parts start to go, it may not be long before more goes.
recent post on what I have changed to date on a 2011.
suspension life depends a lot on driving and road conditions, the roads where I live are like paved dirt roads.

Regarding the PS/ rack leak, give it a good de-greasing / cleaning to confirm the leak areas.
you could gamble on adding some ATP AT-205.
The stuff works and doesn't harm anything, lots of youtube documented success stories on it.
you can buy ATP products on rockauto.com, use the odyclub 5% discount code 961D72DD272911
 

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Hey all

The strut mounts and/or strut bellows/insulators are bad, creaking/making noise.

How long does the front end last on these Odysseys? Front struts, front strut bellows and insulators, front strut mounts, inner and outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, control arm's bushings and ball joints? Is 115k miles a normal time to have to replace some or all of these parts? I'm trying to put a parts order together, and I'm not sure how much to get.

How about how long CV axles last? There is some slight build up on the two front CV axle boots.

Also how long does the PS rack/pinion last? This one has some build up on the bottom due to a small leak. Also some build up at the pump area. Not major PS fluid loss between oil changes (7.5k miles), but definitely some loss. I do have Lucas Power steering leak additive, but I have not used it.

I am debating whether to just do "everything" at the same time, since when some parts start to go, it may not be long before more goes.
Depends. Many variables. Road conditions where you drive are the biggest factor. Also highway miles vs local stop and go as well personal driving habits. Mine sounds better than yours at 234K miles. I've replaced a tie rod end and that's about it. Not as tight as new, but still really decent.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for chiming in. I saw that list @2011.2017.odyssey

I have the new front L and R Moog control arms here ready, mechanic said the rearward control arm bushing is ripped, but it doesn't look horrible to me, and it seems the noise is coming from the strut mount area. I ordered the KYB front strut mounts and KYB bellows/insulators. Both are bad for sure, mechanic also said so. A piece of the insulator fell out of the bellow when I was lifting up the bellow to grease the strut tops with ShinEtsu Honda grease. Bellows are both ripped as well. I do have a spring compressor kit to do this.

I also greased the steering wheel shaft with ShinEtsu.

I think I'm going to install the strut mounts and bellows/insulators first, and wait on the control arms for now. And see what happens.

Also still thinking about getting this one tow ready, with Curt Hitch, Curt brake controller, Curt brake light kit, TruCool trans cooler, and rear shock bags to lift the rear. Also VCM Muzzler is on the back of my mind. If I am able to fix the noises, I would feel more confident in getting at VCM Muzzler II.

Appreciate the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so I've heard the Moog brand going down in quality now many times in different places... so if I send them back what brand of control arms should I get?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The only other quality aftermarket option is Mevoteck, for ~$10 more. Are they that much better than Moog?
 

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The only other quality aftermarket option is Mevoteck, for ~$10 more. Are they that much better than Moog?
I have been using mevotech supreme line since moving away from moog, about 10 years now.
lifetime warranty.
use their suspension parts in all the family and friends vehicles.

the moog warranty is only 36 months now.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok thank you. If I do the control arms after the shock mounts, I will send back the Moog and get Mevotech from RockAuto.com. Mevotech also has a whole front end kit.

I really like doing it right the first time, and not getting screwed by a company caring only for money and not quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I ended up installing the front Moog Control arms and the KYB strut mounts and bellows and it seems the vibration problem at speed is gone, and creaking and squeaking and clunking problems have been solved. Here are the parts used. I also greased the steering column under the dash.

MOOG RK622210 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly
MOOG RK622002 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly
KYB SB111 - Strut Boot
KYB SM5730 - Mount Kit
Honda Genuine 08798-9013 Silicone Grease

I did not get the:

ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

because it was out of stock, but I am going use this Lubegard tomorrow:

Lubegard 20404 Universal Power Steering Fluid Protectant, 4 fl. oz

I am also going to do a transmission drain and fill tomorrow with MaxLife and add 4 oz of Lubegard red.

There are still some noises (creaking, maybe clunking) coming from the rear of the vehicle while driving, but I'm not sure what they are from. Might be the rear hatch problem. Not sure.

But drives 100% better, and at speed now it feels great. I wish I would have ordered the Mevotech at the beginning. I did not know that Moog switched to 3 year warranty, and Mevotech has the lifetime. I should have known because they are $20 more on RockAuto

Thanks for the help
 

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if you have the power liftgate in the rear, its possible the arm is rattling.

you can wrap some velcro or gator straps around the arm between the motor, and see if that is the cause.

there was a TSB for this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes I remember that TSB. And it wasn't fixed under warranty and I think it's an expensive fix. Thanks for the tip on narrowing it down.
 
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