[wdeutsch]

Hello,

I'm hoping someone can help me with my problem.

My 2012 Odyssey starts fine but then has a rough idle when in park or reverse. Sometimes it then dies. If I quickly shift into drive the problem goes away. It also seems like once the car is warmed up there isn't a problem.

Thanks for any help.

 

[rmyoder]

Start by checking the air intake tube for cracks. You may need to remove it and flex it back and forth in order to see them.

If cracked, you can temporarily fix it by wrapping in duct tape until you have time to get a new one.

 

[OddyseyRaceTeam]

I'd also look at the throttle body air plate for carbon not letting idle air though.
Use throttle body aerosol cleaner and may as well clean MAF as the cleaner usually comes together.

 

[WiiMaster]

Probably intake tube as mentioned. Classic symptoms.

 

[wdeutsch]

Thank you for everyone's suggestions.

I'm confused why quickly shifting into drive prevents it from shutting off. If there was a crack in the intake or carbon build up in the throttle body why would being in drive make a difference?

Thanks
William

 

[rmyoder]

Here is an old post (near the end of an old thread) where it is discussed.

2011 Odyssey shuts off while idling

Why not just check your air intake tube? It's right on top and easy to access. Any air leak after the mass air flow (MAF) will cause issues. Having the same issue on my 2012 Odyssey. Checked this forum, popped the hood - and there it was - air intake tube had a tear in the accordion section...

www.odyclub.com

 

[wdeutsch]

I went out, opened the hood and found this! Thanks for the help.

 

[rmyoder]

That is good and bad news. The good news is that the tube is an easy fix (duct tape temporarily, and about $30 for a new tube for the permanent fix).

The bad news is that your front and rear motor mounts are probably on their way out. I just replaced mine, and they are not cheap (about $400 each for DIY with OEM parts)!

Edit: after you fix the tube, either temporarily or permanently, open the hood and start the car, then have a helper put it in D, then N, then R while you watch the engine movement. This will help you determine whether the mounts are good/bad.

 

[wdeutsch]

That is good and bad news. The good news is that the tube is an easy fix (duct tape temporarily, and about $30 for a new tube for the permanent fix).

The bad news is that your front and rear motor mounts are probably on their way out. I just replaced mine, and they are not cheap (about $400 each for DIY with OEM parts)!

Why are they related? Just the age of the rubber?

 

[rmyoder]

Why are they related? Just the age of the rubber?

These are active mounts designed to counteract the engine movement, including that associated with VCM. They wear out over time, allowing the engine to move too much. This excessive movement stresses the intake tube, eventually causing it to crack.

The motor mount wear is worsened with VCM, but it also happens as the car gets older even without VCM. For example, my VCM has been deactivated since 40k miles, but my mounts just failed a few weeks ago at 134k. In my case, the rear mount started leaking onto the exhaust, and the obvious smell of burning oil led me to inspect the mount.

 

[WiiMaster]

Yeah, torn hose = worn out mounts because of VCM. Order of operations here is to replace the hose, disable VCM, and then look into the mounts.

 

[rmyoder]

On a related note, I found that the Dorman replacement hose (available at Autozone, Advance, etc) is too long to fit my 2012 Odyssey, even though their site says it will fit. The correct Honda part is 17228-RV0-A00, but I don't know if this is correct for other years.

 

[WiiMaster]

Thank you for everyone's suggestions.

I'm confused why quickly shifting into drive prevents it from shutting off. If there was a crack in the intake or carbon build up in the throttle body why would being in drive make a difference?

Thanks
William

Since you never got an answer for this, I'll answer.

Shifting makes a difference because when you shift, the engine may move slightly (especially if you have worn mounts that caused the hose to tear), which may stretch the hose in a way that opens up a crack in the tube, suddenly allowing more unmetered air in.

 

[adr5]

I too have a '12. I think I am going to go out and check it now.

I just took a peek. It's not cracked all the way through, but I can see lots of small cracks that you know are only going to get bigger. What I find interesting is that just like the one in this picture, the cracks are only in the pleat closest to the throttle body. All the other pleats look perfect. I wonder why that is the case.

Can anyone recommend a source for this part? Is it a Honda dealer only part? TIA.

 

[WiiMaster]

What I find interesting is that just like the one in this picture, the cracks are only in the pleat closest to the throttle body. All the other pleats look perfect. I wonder why that is the case.

I'd guess it's because that end is closer to the engine, so it gets moved around more with the worn engine mounts than the section further away from the engine.

 

[rmyoder]

Can anyone recommend a source for this part? Is it a Honda dealer only part? TIA.

DO NOT get the Dorman unit from the local parts store. That hose is too long for this application (I learned this the hard way). Online dealers have good prices for the 17228-RV0-A00 hose but shipping costs may negate any savings unless you order other stuff, too.

Edit: if you plan to DIY, the clamps require a 5.5 mm socket (or an odd-sized Phillips type screwdriver that I have yet to find). I'm not sure why Honda doesn't use standard-size fasteners...

 

[adr5]

DO NOT get the Dorman unit from the local parts store. That hose is too long for this application (I learned this the hard way). Online dealers have good prices for the 17228-RV0-A00 hose but shipping costs may negate any savings unless you order other stuff, too.

Rock Auto has the Dorman 696-020 for $15. My front rotors are pulsing, again, and my brake pads are at about 30%, so I may order and replace those too.

 

[rmyoder]

Rock Auto has the Dorman 696-020 for $15. My front rotors are pulsing, again, and my brake pads are at about 30%, so I may order and replace those too.

Hopefully that is the correct part. I don't remember the part number for the Dorman I got at Advance, but I recall it was the same at Autozone.

 

[s_ribs]

Hopefully that is the correct part. I don't remember the part number for the Dorman I got at Advance, but I recall it was the same at Autozone.

I hope so too because I ordered the Dorman from RockAuto recently. Will confirm when I get around to installing it.