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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello All,

Have an issue with my 2012 odyssey 90,000 miles started about 6 months ago, under any (hard or soft) acceleration over 65 MPH the whole car vibrates from the power-train, console, cellphone in holder, all the seat backs rattling. Does it with Eco on and off.
Take my foot off the gas the vibration stops, put it in neutral the vibration stops.

No vibration in the steering wheel, does it with winter and summer tires. car has been aligned, wheels balanced and rotated front to back.

Second owner, no CEL car has never been in an accident, meticulous on fluid changes, plugs changed recently.
Vehicle has had TSB 13-081 / p0301-p0304 done for oil consumption recall / piston rings done under warranty at 60,000 Miles.
Seen many posts on vibrations for older generation odysseys on this forum, but none for 4th gen.

Thinking it's engine mount, cv joint / axles / torque convertor or an ECO bug?.

Issue is really quite annoying, and makes the car aggravating for long trips which is what it was purchased for.
Contemplating abandoning the vehicle on a trade in, vs. diving into what could be a costly disaster diagnosing this.

any feedback is appreciated and thanks all.
:)
 

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Sounds like it might be the torque converter. There is a TSB for juddering with the 6sp, but given the miles and years, you may be on the hook for the cost. Have you kept up with transmission maintenance?

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Discussion Starter #3
BTW, if I drop it into D4 (lil button on the shifter) while its vibrating, it still vibrates and no change is noticed except the revs go up.

And yes, I do a drain and fill annually. when I got the car at 60,000 miles i drained and filled 3x in the first week.
the fluid was very dark.

thanks for the response.
 

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I had this EXACT problem with my 2015 Ody EX, right after I had the tired rotated and rebalanced. Didn't really vibrate at all until I got to highway speeds, and then, only during acceleration from 60-65+ as you described. Foot off the gas, vibration stopped. Figured it couldn't possibly be the tires, I just had them balanced! Plus, I thought "wouldn't it always vibrate, if it were the tires? why just during acceleration?" But as part of the process of elimination (and the fact that I have lifetime rotation/balance where I bought them), I decided to get them rebalanced again before taking it to the dealer for their opinion. Thankfully the problem was completely solved when they rebalanced the tires! I can only assume someone cur corners the last time they were "balanced". So try that again first, hopefully that fixes it for you like it did for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi,

Thanks for the reply @CraigUnder .

I just installed my winter tires a few weeks ago, in hopes that would solve my vibration problem.
unfortunately, the problem still exists.

You do raise a good point however, as I use the stock enkei aluminum rims for winter and summer.
It could be a rim problem...
what are the odds the same bad rim/rims made it to the front again?

I had terrible steering wheel wobble issues at low speeds on my old 2001 odyssey, that took months to resolve.
it turned out to be bad toyo winter tires that looked perfect, and It was all 4 of them that were no good, so rotations and balances did nothing!

I will have the garage balance and rotate the front rims to the back, and see if there is any improvement.

That is the cheapest option to start out with.

will check back in with the results.

cheers.
 

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Most likely coming from driveshafts.
This. If the vibration/shake is the same between two different sets of wheels/tires - it isn't the wheels/tires.

Drive to D4 eliminates engine and most of the transmission as possible problems.

Axles is the next likely thing, and I have seen many reports of problems with axles... (from leaks all the way to wearing out prematurely)

-Charlie
 

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Stick your head under there and see if the rubber boots on the CV joints are leaking grease. They could be bad even if not leaking but seeing a bad boot sort of narrows the prospects.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advice @MrRangerZr1 @phattyduck @191145 .

There is no obvious boot damage or grease leaking, I serviced the front caliper sliders in my lane about a month ago, and took a look around, checked for play in the front end wheel bearings etc.
did the caliper sliders thinking they could be seized, bottom sliders were dry as a bone.

I will get it up on a hoist and check the cv joints for play , although not sure what is considered acceptable for play :oops:

will check back

cheers!
 

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I will get it up on a hoist and check the cv joints for play , although not sure what is considered acceptable for play :oops:
Zero play in the joints themselves, zero play where it goes into the hub, both axially and radially. A small amount of play is acceptable at the transmission interface.

-Charlie
 

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I have the same issue with my 07. Honda replaced torque converter twice before I was able to get them to change the CV shafts with 120000 miles. Vibration went away. It came back at about 210000 miles I replaced both CV shafts, vibration goes away.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Zero play in the joints themselves, zero play where it goes into the hub, both axially and radially. A small amount of play is acceptable at the transmission interface.

-Charlie
Thanks @phattyduck

I picked one of these up at my local aftermarket jobber.
They have an amazing return policy, so no risk doing a swap out.

I notice the concentration of the vibrations coming from the right passenger side, so will gamble on that side first, and it is the longest axle of the two sides.

cheers
 

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I had this EXACT problem with my 2015 Ody EX, right after I had the tired rotated and rebalanced. Didn't really vibrate at all until I got to highway speeds, and then, only during acceleration from 60-65+ as you described. Foot off the gas, vibration stopped. Figured it couldn't possibly be the tires, I just had them balanced! Plus, I thought "wouldn't it always vibrate, if it were the tires? why just during acceleration?" But as part of the process of elimination (and the fact that I have lifetime rotation/balance where I bought them), I decided to get them rebalanced again before taking it to the dealer for their opinion. Thankfully the problem was completely solved when they rebalanced the tires! I can only assume someone cur corners the last time they were "balanced". So try that again first, hopefully that fixes it for you like it did for me.
You might want to check the CV axles when the joints get excessive play it will cause a vibration under load
 

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Did you verify the rubber isolators in the lower control arms were good? I’ve got a 2011 Touring and about 100K miles mine went out. Would cause vibration at speed and normally under acceleration. I didn’t have to replace the CV axles till about 200K miles.


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You might want to check the CV axles when the joints get excessive play it will cause a vibration under load
Could it be that a slight tire imbalance amplifies another issue - like a bad CV bearing, suspension bushings, or a failing motor mount? Normally, most wheels are not perfectly in balance.

If you jack up the vehicle, turn the wheel all the way right or left, and rotate the front wheel by turning the axle with your hand, you may just "feel" the problem.

This is what I did and found the bearings torn up in one outer CV joint on a friend's 2000 Odyssey. There was also slightly excessive (rotational) play from excessively worn/damaged outer CV joint bearings that I did not catch the first time around due to lack of experience on my part. The vibration while driving was only there under acceleration, and it was not particularly noticeable for most people. I also replaced soe motor mounts on this vehicle. One in particular really needed it.
 

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I would start checking the CV joints. If the boots are torn and you see evidence of the grease being flung around, they will need to be replaced. I just had to replace both on my '12 EX-L at 77k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did you verify the rubber isolators in the lower control arms were good? I’ve got a 2011 Touring and about 100K miles mine went out. Would cause vibration at speed and normally under acceleration. I didn’t have to replace the CV axles till about 200K miles.


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will give it all a check when the axle is getting installed this saturday.
thanks for the input...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
BTW, ordered a VCMuzzler II on the weekend, hope to have it delivered before this weekend to install.

After reviewing how bad the VCM / ECO is on this forum, Im convinced.
Also the fact that my engine needed piston rings replaced under a recall for excessive oil consumption.
Those idle cylinders let the piston rings flop around.

Time to disable that nonsense!
 

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I have the same issue with my 07. Honda replaced torque converter twice before I was able to get them to change the CV shafts with 120000 miles. Vibration went away. It came back at about 210000 miles I replaced both CV shafts, vibration goes away.
My vote is for the axle.
Always go OEM for axles, if you don't want to do it again soon and especially if you are planning on keeping the vehicle.
Checking the boot should be regular inspection stuff.
The one below is about to break. It may have another year or three.
Once it opens, the axle is destroyed in short order. If intact, it will go a million miles.

153296

Physically flex the billows to check in between for cracking.
153297



I cannot get new axles for my Mazda 6 so I had to find some in the salvage that had intact boots. I then stripped and replace both boots with OEM (about 1.5 hr and $50 + $28 for axle). I have tried over half a dozen different axles (including OEM reman.) with shaking of some sort and eventual failure. I have done this with VW, Subaru, and Toyota with great results.
It was significantly easier than I ever thought to replace the CV boots with the OEM kit (grease included but different for inboard and outboard joint)
 

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