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BTW, ordered a VCMuzzler II on the weekend, hope to have it delivered before this weekend to install.

After reviewing how bad the VCM / ECO is on this forum, Im convinced.
Also the fact that my engine needed piston rings replaced under a recall for excessive oil consumption.
Those idle cylinders let the piston rings flop around.

Time to disable that nonsense!
I think that is a smart move.
I did this 3 years ago with mine (using resistors) and it will currently only come on then summer in low speed traffic uphill (gets a bit hotter). I figure it is not an entirely bad thing to have the mechanical components for VCM operate for a short spell from time to time. Keep the parts moving and all.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
My vote is for the axle.
Always go OEM for axles, if you don't want to do it again soon and especially if you are planning on keeping the vehicle.
Checking the boot should be regular inspection stuff.
The one below is about to break. It may have another year or three.
Once it opens, the axle is destroyed in short order. If intact, it will go a million miles.

View attachment 153296
Physically flex the billows to check in between for cracking.
View attachment 153297


I cannot get new axles for my Mazda 6 so I had to find some in the salvage that had intact boots. I then stripped and replace both boots with OEM (about 1.5 hr and $50 + $28 for axle). I have tried over half a dozen different axles (including OEM reman.) with shaking of some sort and eventual failure. I have done this with VW, Subaru, and Toyota with great results.
It was significantly easier than I ever thought to replace the CV boots with the OEM kit (grease included but different for inboard and outboard joint)
good info @NW_Lokstars
I have had some PITA experiences with axles, on my integra and 2001 odyssey.
from the vibration being worse with replacements rebuilt or new, on my 2001 odyssey one replacement axle from cardone made the car feel like it was hopping up and down on the highway.
I stay clear of rebuilt axles nothing but bad experiences with them.
The trakmotive axles are brand new not rebuilt, and I have had very good experience with them and the warranty is lifetime.
OEM is not an option because of the price point.
 

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Once it opens, the axle is destroyed in short order. If intact, it will go a million miles.
Sadly, this doesn't seem to be the case with the Odyssey axles. Many are reporting issues with axles in the 100k mile range with no split boots where new OEM or other axles fixed the (vibration) problem.

It used to be true of Japanese vehicles though (still on the original CV axles in a couple Toyotas, one set still good since '95...).

-Charlie
 

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I had a 2005 EX-L with the exact same problem around 100k miles on the drivers side. I went through all the same steps including tire rotation, balancing, and alignment. The transaxles did not have any apparent play. Everything looked great under the car until I got directly under the inboard CVs. There was a very, very thin grease strip apparent directly above the end of the boot at the transaxle connection. The issue is that the factory clamps where not properly installed tightly enough and allowed the grease over an extended period of time to escape the CV joint. The boots were all in perfect condition and in my experience the only time there is a catastrophic grease issue is when a boot splits. The passenger side was unaffected at the time but also displayed grease evidence of similar leakage. I replaced both transaxles with new oem lifetime guaranteed parts (not genuine Honda that would have cost 4 times as much and have a 1 year warranty). The problem was completely solved and did not recur for the final additional 85k miles I owned the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Sadly, this doesn't seem to be the case with the Odyssey axles. Many are reporting issues with axles in the 100k mile range with no split boots where new OEM or other axles fixed the (vibration) problem.

It used to be true of Japanese vehicles though (still on the original CV axles in a couple Toyotas, one set still good since '95...).

-Charlie
You are right about that. Economies of Scale!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Update:

got into my favorite local garage, quick stop after work today.
had them start off with re-balancing the wheels.
They were all within spec one wheel was off by .25oz. we did however notice a small bend in one of the enkei rims that was on the front. so we placed that on the back. inspected both axles for grease leaks and checked for play as @phattyduck advised. no play whatsoever, except at the transmission which @phattyduck said was normal.
inspected control arm bushings for play with a big prybar, no play. There was a small crack observed in the rubber at the back of the passenger side control arm bushing.
checked wheel bearings, checked front end.
Van was aligned in the spring.

Took it for a test drive 70 MPH, issue was just as bad.
I noticed this time however, that the vibration was very prominent going out of ECO mode when flooring the pedal.

of course the issue happens under load, so flooring it will make the vibration more noticeable.

Going to hold off on axle replacement until the muzzler is installed, just to rule that out.

There is no risk to installing and returning the axles if that is not the issue, except for labor and realigning the van.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
update #2
VCMuzzler II came in today by courier, installation took 3 minutes.
The bad news is the Muzzler did not solve the vibration issue, however I did notice some immediate drive-ability improvements.
when the lockup convertor is engaged and VCM/ECO active (city or highway), the engine would feel sluggish and labored when cruising with mild vibration under light acceleration.
Also, when laying it down into passing gear with lockup and vcm active, the van would struggle for a second or two.

With the VCMuzzler installed none of this behavior is observed, the van is responsive at all times, and feels like what I was used to on previous vehicles which didn't have VCM.
More Honda gimmicks that are useless.

Will change the axles next, and report back!
 

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I had this EXACT same issue on our 2012 Touring. It was the passenger side CV axle. Worn out.
I had a boot break a few years back, road debris. I replaced it with “top quality aftermarket” AKA China.
After 2 years it was worn out. I wish I had pictures of the outer CV axle. That thing was blasted.
I bought a genuine Honda from LKQ, only 25K on it. It’s been fine ever since.
 

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update #2
VCMuzzler II came in today by courier, installation took 3 minutes.
The bad news is the Muzzler did not solve the vibration issue, however I did notice some immediate drive-ability improvements.
when the lockup convertor is engaged and VCM/ECO active (city or highway), the engine would feel sluggish and labored when cruising with mild vibration under light acceleration.
Also, when laying it down into passing gear with lockup and vcm active, the van would struggle for a second or two.
That's all fairly normal VCM operation, though it does sound like your active motor mounts are on their way out (that's >$500 each x2 just in parts to replace). They will last much longer with VCM turned off.

It takes a bit for VCM to activate and deactivate (unlock torque converter, turn on/off cylinders, re-lock torque converter, all while managing the active engine mounts and throttle position to keep 'constant' engine power)..

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #30
That's all fairly normal VCM operation, though it does sound like your active motor mounts are on their way out (that's >$500 each x2 just in parts to replace). They will last much longer with VCM turned off.

It takes a bit for VCM to activate and deactivate (unlock torque converter, turn on/off cylinders, re-lock torque converter, all while managing the active engine mounts and throttle position to keep 'constant' engine power)..

-Charlie
The more I drive with VCM disabled, the more I am enjoying it.
feels like a different vehicle.
once I change the axles, will see if there are any more vibration culprits.
fingers crossed.
 

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The more I drive with VCM disabled, the more I am enjoying it.
feels like a different vehicle.
once I change the axles, will see if there are any more vibration culprits.
fingers crossed.
Well, I'm holding out for the response! Same issue on my 2011 Touring, haven't gotten underneath to check the axles yet, but that vibration is present throughout many speeds. Yokohamas are less than a year old, rotated/balanced religiously. Hope your issue is easily found!
 

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Hello All,

Have an issue with my 2012 odyssey 90,000 miles started about 6 months ago, under any (hard or soft) acceleration over 65 MPH the whole car vibrates from the power-train, console, cellphone in holder, all the seat backs rattling. Does it with Eco on and off.
Take my foot off the gas the vibration stops, put it in neutral the vibration stops.

No vibration in the steering wheel, does it with winter and summer tires. car has been aligned, wheels balanced and rotated front to back.

Second owner, no CEL car has never been in an accident, meticulous on fluid changes, plugs changed recently.
Vehicle has had TSB 13-081 / p0301-p0304 done for oil consumption recall / piston rings done under warranty at 60,000 Miles.
Seen many posts on vibrations for older generation odysseys on this forum, but none for 4th gen.

Thinking it's engine mount, cv joint / axles / torque convertor or an ECO bug?.

Issue is really quite annoying, and makes the car aggravating for long trips which is what it was purchased for.
Contemplating abandoning the vehicle on a trade in, vs. diving into what could be a costly disaster diagnosing this.

any feedback is appreciated and thanks all.
:)
There is well known problem about Honda transmission
from day one I had vibration and shaking while driving
Also popping/ banging sound while turning engine on
Honda was playing with me using excuses like : rotors , alignment etc
I hired a lawyer and stoped paying car
Right now there are 2 class actions vs Honda
 

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Well, I'm holding out for the response! Same issue on my 2011 Touring, haven't gotten underneath to check the axles yet, but that vibration is present throughout many speeds. Yokohamas are less than a year old, rotated/balanced religiously. Hope your issue is easily found!
All vibrations and shaking are result of bad Transmission
Had a brand new Limited odyssey ($50k)
From day one problems after problems
Honda replaced Piston Rings ( 7 days at Service dealership )
Short story
Hired Lawyers
Filed Class actions

Never again Honda
 

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All vibrations and shaking are result of bad Transmission
Had a brand new Limited odyssey ($50k)
From day one problems after problems
Honda replaced Piston Rings ( 7 days at Service dealership )
Short story
Hired Lawyers
Filed Class actions

Never again Honda
ALL vibrations? The vibrations could be plenty of other things besides the transmission. Not all vehicles are the same.....I hate that you had those issues, but that may not be what's doing on with mine or Ticket's vans (hopefully).
 

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Hello All,

Have an issue with my 2012 odyssey 90,000 miles started about 6 months ago, under any (hard or soft) acceleration over 65 MPH the whole car vibrates from the power-train, console, cellphone in holder, all the seat backs rattling. Does it with Eco on and off.
Take my foot off the gas the vibration stops, put it in neutral the vibration stops.

No vibration in the steering wheel, does it with winter and summer tires. car has been aligned, wheels balanced and rotated front to back.

Second owner, no CEL car has never been in an accident, meticulous on fluid changes, plugs changed recently.
Vehicle has had TSB 13-081 / p0301-p0304 done for oil consumption recall / piston rings done under warranty at 60,000 Miles.
Seen many posts on vibrations for older generation odysseys on this forum, but none for 4th gen.

Thinking it's engine mount, cv joint / axles / torque convertor or an ECO bug?.

Issue is really quite annoying, and makes the car aggravating for long trips which is what it was purchased for.
Contemplating abandoning the vehicle on a trade in, vs. diving into what could be a costly disaster diagnosing this.

any feedback is appreciated and thanks all.
:)
Transmission
Transmission
 

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Discussion Starter #36
ALL vibrations? The vibrations could be plenty of other things besides the transmission. Not all vehicles are the same.....I hate that you had those issues, but that may not be what's doing on with mine or Ticket's vans (hopefully).
@dukes13
All car manufacturers play the law of averages.
some get screwed, many come out lucky.

its no wonder many people play the lease and dump game every 3-4 years, and pass on the problem to someone else.

I have had multiple hondas and acuras, and am safe to say their quality is up over say a ford or dodge or gm.
not to bash north american manufacturers and there are some good ones, but some of my worst cars not noted in my signature, were north american made domestics.
BMW volvo and mercedes,volkwagen, audi are no better, and quality since the 90's has gone way down, not to mention maintenance and TCO going way up.

I will take my chances with a Honda or Toyota... Thank You.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
for reference in case there is any doubt...

 

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Hopefully you tried a 3x drain and fill on the transmission. Worth a try if you haven’t done this in the last 30k miles.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hopefully you tried a 3x drain and fill on the transmission. Worth a try if you haven’t done this in the last 30k miles.


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did 3 drain fills when I first got the van, then i do an annual drain fill in the fall.
there is another thread on here debating whether vavoline maxlife or honda dw1 is better.
I did my initial drain fill 2x with vavoline maxlife, then switched back to dw1 for the 3rd drain fill.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Update # 3
After the Christmas madness, I changed the passenger side axle where the vibration appeared to be coming from, with a brand new aftermarket one from trakmotive.
Stock one was destroyed when removing it, so no going back.
$300 bux later, Vibration is still there at 70 MPH + under acceleration.
I am afraid that @dukes13 may be right in indicating the transmission, or torque convertor.

hoping @phattyduck @MrRangerZr1 or @cmac212 have some other suggestions that doesn't involve multi thousand dollar solutions.

Have to say, I am REALLY disappointed in this vehicle, and am on the verge of walking into a non honda dealer and washing my hands of this thing.
 
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