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Vibration would change pitch between Drive and D4 (according to engine RPM) if it was transmission or engine relate (mounts, plugs, etc.).

You still have one axle remaining to replace before going deeper or giving up.

Just don't assume that another make won't have similar issues - often you get lucky, sometimes you don't... let's hope you can get to the bottom of it.

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Vibration would change pitch between Drive and D4 (according to engine RPM) if it was transmission or engine relate (mounts, plugs, etc.).

You still have one axle remaining to replace before going deeper or giving up.

Just don't assume that another make won't have similar issues - often you get lucky, sometimes you don't... let's hope you can get to the bottom of it.

-Charlie
Thanks for the feedback @phattyduck. The other Axle will go in this weekend.
As @jnissen mentioned it could be control arm bushings, as he had the same issue on his 2011 Touring.
Thoughts?

I was coming home this evening 70-75MPH, and noticed around right hand curves under acceleration, the vibration amplifies slightly.

you're right about the luck of the draw.
My kids Veracruz is rock solid and smooth at any speed, the Civic as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Update #4
Changed the drivers left side axle, vibration issue is still there, almost seems worse.
Checked the front end again, control arm bushings, ball joints. all OK.
Inspected motor mounts, visibly OK.

We did notice very mild play on the inner tie rod, left side.

Nobody had the part in stock, so will get that changed next weekend, along with another alignment.

Lets hope its that!
 

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Loving all your updates and following in suspense. Keep them coming!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Hopefully this proves helpful for someone, should it get resolved.

Up until now its been a royal pain in the a$$.
 

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my vibration wasnt that bad but my CV shafts were causing vibration. I got both from rockauto for 180 shipped. fixed my problem
 

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Thanks @phattyduck

I picked one of these up at my local aftermarket jobber.
They have an amazing return policy, so no risk doing a swap out.

I notice the concentration of the vibrations coming from the right passenger side, so will gamble on that side first, and it is the longest axle of the two sides.

cheers
Would it it be better to change both sides? Im about to change mine that’s why I asked. Thanks
 

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Had the same issue on my '07 Avalon, the right side front axle just got replaced a few hours ago and the thrumming/vibration in the front end is now gone. The inner CV boot was throwing grease, I heard a little "clickity-clack" action and knew where this was going. The NTB guys said just go with the NAPA Heavy Duty unit, they never have them come back for replacement/reservicing (unlike a few other brands out there). We'll see...

The driver's side looked fine, so we didn't touch it.

Good luck on your issue but acceleration thrumming/vibration sounds very axle'y. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Thanks for the feedback @AndrewS816

Since changing the drivers side axle, I have noticed a reduction in vibration at 75mph.
I think the inner tie rod is the culprit for the vibration at the 65+mph mark. I think the small amount of play is causing oscillation on the drivers side wheel. But its hardly felt in the steering wheel.

Will change tie rod this weekend, and report back.

Fingers crossed!
 

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update #2
VCMuzzler II came in today by courier, installation took 3 minutes.
The bad news is the Muzzler did not solve the vibration issue, however I did notice some immediate drive-ability improvements.
when the lockup convertor is engaged and VCM/ECO active (city or highway), the engine would feel sluggish and labored when cruising with mild vibration under light acceleration.
Also, when laying it down into passing gear with lockup and vcm active, the van would struggle for a second or two.

With the VCMuzzler installed none of this behavior is observed, the van is responsive at all times, and feels like what I was used to on previous vehicles which didn't have VCM.
More Honda gimmicks that are useless.

Will change the axles next, and report back!
I have the 06 Odyssey EXL with the same VCM engine but with the 5 sp auto. The VCM works fine and unnoticeable until it has about 80K. When the VCM kicked in, I can hear the moaning sound from the engine bay at cruising speed but not noticable when I slowed down the car. I put up with it until the car hit 105K and I changed out all the spark plugs. She runs a lot better now and the moaning sound goes away under VCM, just like when it was new. When I checked the old spark plugs, the gap is wider than .44" and the plug tips were worn. By changing out the spark plugs, with proper .39" gaps, the engine feels much more responsive and powerful than it was before. VCM seems to work fine with the 5sp auto, which is not the same as your car which has the 6 sp. Mine is responsive when I stepped on it without the hesitation I heard on this newer Ody generation. I think I will keep mine a bit longer now that I just replaced all the spark plugs, timing belt, pulleys and tensioner. With VCM active, I got over 26 mpg on the highway with the car fully loaded, better than the EPA estimate, so I won't give that up either.
 

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did 3 drain fills when I first got the van, then i do an annual drain fill in the fall.
there is another thread on here debating whether vavoline maxlife or honda dw1 is better.
I did my initial drain fill 2x with vavoline maxlife, then switched back to dw1 for the 3rd drain fill.
This could be the source of your problem if it turned out to be the tranny. Mixing two different brands tranny fluid is not a good idea. When you switch back to DF1 or DW1, you should have done it 3x to get rid of the valvoline fluid. I'd always stick to one brand, OEM is preferred given Honda tranny is more fragile than the others.
 

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Hi,

Thanks for the reply @CraigUnder .

I just installed my winter tires a few weeks ago, in hopes that would solve my vibration problem.
unfortunately, the problem still exists.

You do raise a good point however, as I use the stock enkei aluminum rims for winter and summer.
It could be a rim problem...
what are the odds the same bad rim/rims made it to the front again?

I had terrible steering wheel wobble issues at low speeds on my old 2001 odyssey, that took months to resolve.
it turned out to be bad toyo winter tires that looked perfect, and It was all 4 of them that were no good, so rotations and balances did nothing!

I will have the garage balance and rotate the front rims to the back, and see if there is any improvement.

That is the cheapest option to start out with.

will check back in with the results.

cheers.
In my experience in the past 30 years, the wheel/tire balancing problem does not happen at every speed, usually at a specific cruising speed, where the vibrations are very noticeable and the steering wheel shakes. So if you changing out the tires/rims on the car, and the same vibrations happened, it is not the tires/rims. There are three likely culprits in this case: the CV joints, axle bearings or tranny. One other possible cause could be the engine mounts, open the hood and have someone accelerate the engine over 2K RPM, if the engine moves significantly, the engine mount or mounts are bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
This could be the source of your problem if it turned out to be the tranny. Mixing two different brands tranny fluid is not a good idea. When you switch back to DF1 or DW1, you should have done it 3x to get rid of the valvoline fluid. I'd always stick to one brand, OEM is preferred given Honda tranny is more fragile than the others.
@thomasmore89
I have done 2 drain fills, one each fall, since the initial 3x drain fills I did in the first month when I bought the van.
Thanks for the input.
 

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I have the 06 Odyssey EXL with the same VCM engine but with the 5 sp auto. The VCM works fine and unnoticeable until it has about 80K. When the VCM kicked in, I can hear the moaning sound from the engine bay at cruising speed but not noticable when I slowed down the car. I put up with it until the car hit 105K and I changed out all the spark plugs. She runs a lot better now and the moaning sound goes away under VCM, just like when it was new. When I checked the old spark plugs, the gap is wider than .44" and the plug tips were worn. By changing out the spark plugs, with proper .39" gaps, the engine feels much more responsive and powerful than it was before. VCM seems to work fine with the 5sp auto, which is not the same as your car which has the 6 sp. Mine is responsive when I stepped on it without the hesitation I heard on this newer Ody generation. I think I will keep mine a bit longer now that I just replaced all the spark plugs, timing belt, pulleys and tensioner. With VCM active, I got over 26 mpg on the highway with the car fully loaded, better than the EPA estimate, so I won't give that up either.
Actually, the VCM system in the 2006 models is different. Much simpler and much less trouble for folks. Those vans have active engine mounts that would break, but not the oil blow by from the leaking piston rings. VCMII started with the 2008 models. Of course you did just describe spark plug fouling...
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Update # 5
Left side inner and outer tie rod changed, alignment done.

Still vibrates at 60-70mph.

There was a combination of vibrations at play here, the thrumming vibration that was from the left drivers side axle, that happened at 75+ mph is gone after the axle change.

The slightly bent rim that was on the drivers front, is moved to the back.

I took my mechanic friend on a drive to demonstrate the vibration since the tie rod change, vibration is more prominent in the steering wheel now.
also more prominent is vibration when braking coming off the highway on the off-ramp deceleration.

The latter is most certainly rotors (Edit : was not the rotors, was the ball joint causing the wheel to shudder on braking).

Not sure how all these problems compounded in the course of 6 months, but this is where I am at 800 bux in.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
another observation noticed this evening.
when going into a right hand curve under acceleration or not, if i move the steering wheel side to side in the curve at 70mph (not my idea of fun) the vibration amplifies.

could this be rotors or tires or wheel bearing?

since we ruled out and eliminated 2 sources of vibrations, I wonder what else it could be!
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Update #6
Went back in today for new winter tires, and inspected everything again.
Noticed a very small amount of play in the drivers side tire, the same side we previously did the inner and outer tie rods.
There was no obvious play in the ball joint when we changed the axle, we moved and rotated it while apart, no up and down play and was relatively tight to move.
Edit: What's comical is the car aligned perfectly after the inner outer tie rod change, have the report camber caster toe all perfect.

Changed out the Front Left lower control arm with ball joint, with a Mevotech.

The Problem is Solved!!!

What a pain in the A$$ that was, and 1200 bux later.

Glad its over...

Thanks to all who contributed!
 

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shake/shimmer on acceleration was most pronounced...changed both CV axles with OEM and fixed.
I figured because the vehicle had 130k miles and I didn't think I could tell which side or if both sides were the problem.
Good Luck and Best Wishes
Mike
 

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Update #6
Went back in today for new winter tires, and inspected everything again.
Noticed a very small amount of play in the drivers side tire, the same side we previously did the inner and outer tie rods.
There was no obvious play in the ball joint when we changed the axle, we moved and rotated it while apart, no up and down play and was relatively tight to move.
Edit: What's comical is the car aligned perfectly after the inner outer tie rod change, have the report camber caster toe all perfect.

Changed out the Front Left lower control arm with ball joint, with a Mevotech.

The Problem is Solved!!!

What a pain in the A$$ that was, and 1200 bux later.

Glad its over...

Thanks to all who contributed!
Huh? One LCA fixed the vibration issue? Can't believe it.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
It did.
We had 3 vibrations in total, bent rim, bad axle and the bad inner out tie rod, then finally the ball joint.
Drivers side was mostly the culprit.

I am getting the impression someone (in the family) who used the van, hit a curb or something and didnt share that info with me.
 
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