[2011.2017.odyssey]

you should of tried some ATP AT-205 reseal a week before an oil change for your oil leak.
15 bux a bottle vs 3500.

everything to date I have done on my 2011 TE
110,000 miles.

piston ring recall for oil consumption and misfires, VCM related (warranty)
VCM Muzzler
rear wiper motor
both front lower control arms (ball joints)
inner and outer tie rods
link kits
both CV axles
rear shocks
rear spring seats
multiple front and rear rotors and pads
valve cover gaskets
pcv
Timing belt and water pump + components
Drive Belt and tensioner.
spark plugs
ATF filter
power steering reservoir
tpms seal kits
Alternator
power steering pump seals.

regular maintenance stuff:
multiple batteries
power steering flush
multiple ATF drain and fills
multiple oil changes
multiple sets of tires.
multiple alignments
multiple air filters
multiple cabin filters.
multiple front and rear wiper blades.
multiple DRL headlight and misc bulbs.

 

[netman88]

After the fix that took about 1 week, I'm not seeing any oil leaks now.

 

[jiantao]

As long as you change the transmission fluid regularly, you shouldn't have any major issues with the transmission.

An alternator might be in your not-so-distant future.

 

[netman88]

As long as you change the transmission fluid regularly, you shouldn't have any major issues with the transmission.

An alternator might be in your not-so-distant future.

Interesting, sounds like a probable issue coming.
We drive our van 2x a week and every 4th week we drive around 200 miles round trip. The mechanic did mention that the battery was getting low. I changed it 4 months ago.

 

[WiiMaster]

Definitely disable the VCM. Expensive repair you don't want.

 

[netman88]

Definitely disable the VCM. Expensive repair you don't want.

2013 Ody has that? If so, how to do that?

 

[jiantao]

Yes, 2013 Odyssey has VCM. Worst affected years were 2008-2013, so you definitely want that addressed.

There are many threads on the forum about muzzling the VCM. Do a search and you can spend all night reading various threads. You need to purchase a muzzler which tricks the car into thinking it's not fully warmed up, which keeps the VCM functions disabled.

 

[FinishLine]

I had both fans go about 2 months apart. They were replaced under extended warranty coverage. Do all the recommended service at the recommended intervals and you will be fine.
I also muzzled the b!tch.

 

[netman88]

I had both fans go about 2 months apart. They were replaced under extended warranty coverage. Do all the recommended service at the recommended intervals and you will be fine.
I also muzzled the b!tch.

How many miles this happened?

 

[netman88]

How long people tend to keep the ODY? At what mileage should the big bills start to roll in?

 

[phattyduck]

How long people tend to keep the ODY? At what mileage should the big bills start to roll in?

If you take care of the transmission and VCM system, it should only be 'minor' repairs for the foreseeable future. You'll have to do minor repairs along the way (suspension, axles, alternator, etc.) but nothing excessive, generally. Like most Japanese vehicles, take care of it and it will take care of you.

-Charlie

 

[John U]

How long people tend to keep the ODY? At what mileage should the big bills start to roll in?

251,000 miles so far on my '12. Never had a big bill. I've had two unexpected trips to the dealer for oil pressure sensors. First at 105,000 second at 240,000. Two other visits for required timing belt service at 100K and 200K. Not a bad track record.
Yes, I over maintain my vehicles myself. Wear items like tires, shocks, struts and lots of brake rotors and pads have been replaced when needed.
I'm ready to purchase another Odyssey when the time comes..... I'm too busy driving this one still. I'm driving 1,700 miles next week and then another 2,000 mile trip the end of May. My current one still looks like new (lot's of wax)

 

[netman88]

Wow, that's amazing. We haven't been so lucky. We have been seeing repairs for the last 2 years. Latest expensive one was a bad oil leak between the engine/transmission that cost over $3300 (negotiated down the price). Did major service on the vehicle already.

 

[John U]

Wow, that's amazing. We haven't been so lucky. We have been seeing repairs for the last 2 years. Latest expensive one was a bad oil leak between the engine/transmission that cost over $3300 (negotiated down the price). Did major service on the vehicle already.

A leak is a horrible expense!!!
Since the major service (timing belt I'm guessing) is complete, hopefully you are set for a lot of miles before the next service. You'd hate to trade off a vehicle too soon after putting money into it.

 

[netman88]

A leak is a horrible expense!!!
Since the major service (timing belt I'm guessing) is complete, hopefully you are set for a lot of miles before the next service. You'd hate to trade off a vehicle too soon after putting money into it.

Yes. The other issues were the suspension issues. I don't remember but it cost around another $2500 or so.

 

[jiantao]

I'm guessing the oil leak between the engine and transmission is the rear main seal. Unfortunately that one is extremely expensive as the transmission needs to be removed to access it.

I have a feeling you have an expensive mechanic. $3300 is quite high for a rear main seal replacement unless you had other work done at the same time. It really should be under $2K.

Also - suspension issues for $2500 is quite high as well. Replacing all 4 struts should be around $1K. Both axles might add another $500-600. Even if you threw in a sway bar link or bushing, or a wheel bearing... that still shouldn't reach $2500.

 

[netman88]

I'm guessing the oil leak between the engine and transmission is the rear main seal. Unfortunately that one is extremely expensive as the transmission needs to be removed to access it.

I have a feeling you have an expensive mechanic. $3300 is quite high for a rear main seal replacement unless you had other work done at the same time. It really should be under $2K.

Also - suspension issues for $2500 is quite high as well. Replacing all 4 struts should be around $1K. Both axles might add another $500-600. Even if you threw in a sway bar link or bushing, or a wheel bearing... that still shouldn't reach $2500.

Probably was wheel bearing. I have to dig out the docs on that.

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

For a leaky RMS, always start out with some ATP AT-205 Re-Seal in the crank case a week before an oil change.
and possibly save thousands...
if the seal is hard and dry ATP will fix it in time, if its worn and damaged probably not.

Recommended it to a technician friend recently with a very leaky suzuki escudo / vitara.
RMS and cam seals and valve cover.
He had his doubts.

ATP solved the leaks except the valve cover, which a relatively easy fix compared to the other seals.

magic stuff...

 

[netman88]

I decided to pull together the invoices so I can give a better answer the bills that came over. Correction (no suspension issues). Mixed up the suspension issue with the old Sienna before.

I'm not counting scheduled maintenance like oil, transmission, radiator flush, tires, brakes/rotors and major services. Tires were like every year until we started going harder compound Continental and Michelin brands tires. The lower end Michelins didn't last long. We use to drive 85% city and rest freeway. My wife drives the wife more than I do on the weekend.

Unplanned bills.

- Left sliding door doesn't work: (can't believe it was so expensive for a hardness but they said it's a special cable)
- Replace door harness and seal door: $796.86
- Rear Main Seal (Engine/Transmission) $2158.00
( I did negotiated with the dealer on this repair and major service one).

- Shock absorber, RR $220.31
- Drive Outboard Shaft (left) and (Right) $1184.00

That's why I wondering what's next? If transmission, I'm getting rid of it once I feel it slipping.