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2014 Honda Odyssey temperature gauge bottoms out to cold even when engine is warmed up

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2014 Honda Odyssey temperature gauge needle bottoms out to cold even when engine is warmed up. It doesn’t slowly get there. It just drops from midway to bottom of cold in less than a second. When the temperature needle starts to raise above cold it will slowly get to midway and hold. This has happened a few times and I can feel the van shake and bog down a bit but only when I’m idling. I’ve noticed the temperature does also drop instantly to cold while driving and I’ll just feel a slight jerk from the vehicle. I have ideas on what this could be but just seeing if this is a common issue so I’m not guessing in what part to change out. Thanks.
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2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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Guessing you don't have a VCM disable device but if you do start there.

Otherwise my first blind guess would be a thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wiimaster.
Guessing you don't have a VCM disable device but if you do start there.

Otherwise my first blind guess would be a thermostat.
Yes I installed a VCM disable harness 2 years ago when I was troubleshooting a different problem. But it is installed. I was thinking thermostat but then I also thought it could be temp sensor.
 

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2016 Touring Elite
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I'd suspect the wiring around the ECT1 sensor or the VCM disabling device. Remove it for troubleshooting purposes and check for chewed wires in the area while you are in there.

-Charlie
 
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2015 Odyssey EX-L; 2015 Durango Citadel (Hemi AWD)
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So it may be a bad vcm disabling device? I was under the impression I needed the vcm device installed?
It's possible for the computer in the active muzzlers to go bad, although I'd expect the temp gauges to read normal in that case. Not sure how a passive muzzler would go bad. Either way, I'd definitely uninstall it just for now in order to better troubleshoot.

I agree start with the ECT sensors. Sure sounds like a bad connection there.
 

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So it may be a bad vcm disabling device? I was under the impression I needed the vcm device installed?
Having VCM enabled for a while to eliminate aftermarket as a possible problem is worth it. You won't cause permanent damage driving a few hundred (or even thousand) miles. Remember, MOST Odysseys on the road have VCM working...

-Charlie
 
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Which specific VCM disabling device are we discussing here? Resistance based Muzzler or the fully automatic VCM Tuner II or S-VCM? If its one of the latter two, either of them can do this exact thing. There have been at least 2 threads reported for this exact behavior for S-VCM and one for Tuner II if my memory is right. There may be more but those three are what I remember at a minimum.
 

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I would say either fix the problem or leave the Muzzler disconnected, especially in the winter months. If the fault 'fools' the ECU into thinking the engine is cold, it will continue to dump fuel into it for cold operation, which is very destructive.
 

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I would say either fix the problem or leave the Muzzler disconnected, especially in the winter months. If the fault 'fools' the ECU into thinking the engine is cold, it will continue to dump fuel into it for cold operation, which is very destructive.
Not likely. Air/fuel mixture is determined primarily using feedback from the O2 sensors within seconds of engine start. Engine coolant temperature has nothing to do with fuel metering.
 

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Not likely. Air/fuel mixture is determined primarily using feedback from the O2 sensors within seconds of engine start. Engine coolant temperature has nothing to do with fuel metering.
interesting though, when I had the vcmuzzlerii blue resistor on my 2011, cold starts in spring and summer months would get a sputter from the engine almost like a miss.
drove me mental trying to figure it out, looked at the data stream nothing stood out.
put the vcmtunerii in, and the problem disapeared.
 

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I had this very problem with a VCMTunerII installed. A new ECT sensor fixed it right up for me. I wish every vehicle repair could be so easy.
 

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Update. Removed the vcm tuner and all has been good for at least a week. Thanks for the help. I’ll probably leave it like this now unless there is a serious need for the tuner to be in place?
Are you still running it without the VCM Tuner? My EX-L is acting like yours. I have the VCM Tuner also.
 

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i unplugged the vcm tuner and no longer had any problems. I just left it without the vcm tuner and it runs good. I’m happy with it
That's all fine and good... Your VCM tuner had an issue and you tracked it down, but by allowing VCM to be active you risk engine damage in the future. There's a reason you put the VCM tuner on it to begin with. When you have misfires, failed catalytic converters, failed engine mounts and/or stuck piston rings you'll wish you replaced it rather than just removed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I bought the vehicle with 80,000 miles on it. It didn’t come with a VCM tuner. I’ve put 15,000 miles on it. If damage would be a result of no VCM tuner then I’d already be experiencing it. I installed the tuner while my vehicle was sputtering the next day after purchasing the vehicle. But the sputter ended up being transmission fluid change out. Some folks just don’t troubleshoot their vehicles. I’m not saying I’m the best. But right now with no VCM tuner I see no reason to mess with the vehicle as it’s purring like a kitten.

That's all fine and good... Your VCM tuner had an issue and you tracked it down, but by allowing VCM to be active you risk engine damage in the future. There's a reason you put the VCM tuner on it to begin with. When you have misfires, failed catalytic converters, failed engine mounts and/or stuck piston rings you'll wish you replaced it rather than just removed it.
 

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It is called prevention. Sure, maybe yours won't have the problem. Bit it also might. Also, taking it off and going hey it runs fine without doesn't say much because it takes time to gunk up.

On my old 07 Chevy I bought it with 128k on the odometer and it was running fine. I put several thousand miles on it with AFM (similar system to VCM) and no problems. Then suddenly, the problem reared its ugly head when around 140k or so it carboned itself up and drank 2 quarts of oil only halfway through an oil change when up to that point it hadn't really used any oil. I disabled AFM after that and had to do some top end cleaning to get the carbon out of the chambers. Problem didn't return even after almost another 100k miles.

That's why, after that experience, I disabled VCM on our new to us 15 Odyssey ASAP. I didn't want to wait until I had a problem to fix it. Nice side effect is getting rid of the weird shudder every time VCM would kick on/off and not having the lag of the cylinders kicking back in when pushing the gas.
 
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