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I recently got a 2014 Touring after the demise if our 2008 Touring. I installed HID's on the 2008 on the lows AND fogs. After 6 years of ownership I saw no value in upgrading the Odyssey fogs and they do next to nothing in terms of lighting up the road. I'm convinced they are for looks only. My 2006 fogs are GREAT and light up the road very well. Those were also upgraded to HID's both low and fogs.

I ordered the H11 4300k non-Phillips bulb Extreme HID kit: H11 Xenon Conversion | XenonDepot Xtreme H11 HID Kit

The camera settings were such that I tried to approximate what the naked eye (adjusted to night time) would "see".
So although the camera wanted to set the exposure for an even bell curve, I set to manual at 1/8th second to approximate what *I* saw.
Setting the camera in aperture priority mode, the camera wanted to set exposure to .4 seconds, but the resulting picture would have made the stock lights look far brighter than they are in reality.
However using the camera's light sensor will aid in our ability to discern a loose quantitative measurement of how much extra light the HID's produced.
Setup:
Camera: Canon 7D
Lens: EF-S 10-22 F3.5-4.5
ISO : 1600 (NR turned on)
Manual Exposure: F3.5 @ 1/8th (.125) seconds
Box 1 is 25' from the vehicle
Box 2 is 75' from the vehicle
Using the camera's light meter in Aperture Priority Mode to gauge how "bright" the lights are.

Stock Measurements
Box 1 had a exposure time of 1/30th (.0333) sec (likely skewed by the black arrow ink)
Box 2 had a exposure time of 1/13th (.0769) sec (roughly 1/2 the light as "seen" by the camera from on the closer box)

Measurements:
Box 1 had a exposure time of 1/50th (.02) sec (but I didn't notice that I had a fair amount of black in the image so if I reshot I think I may have been around 1/60th sec ; or double he light)
Box 2 had a exposure time of 1/20th (.05) sec


Left in AV mode, the camera wanted to shoot at 1/4sec so slightly less than 1/2 the time required to get the same exposure than with halogen. But I screwed up the zoom. The "before" picture was shot at 14mm and the "after" was shot at 10mm,... so it was pulling in a LOT more dark sky, skewing the exposure. If I had zoomed properly I believe I would have gotten a shutter speed under 1/4 sec.


Impressions
The lights, once stabilized, throw a nice even bright white light. Not LED type piercing white light. But a slightly warmer tone which I think helps with keeping things from looking too childish.

I'd say on center and on the ground you get at least double the light, I didn't meter the ground but looking at the pictures and the intensity of the light in person I'd say you get a little over double the light. Up higher you get slightly less than twice the output as evidenced by the light meter.

HID's are definitely punchier than the stock halogens as you can see by the fence line in the distance where the halogens are barely visible but the HID's light up very well.

Artifacts are relatively controlled and are really just more intense artifacts in the same shape as the stock halogens. Looking at the lights from the front of the car (where a camera won't do a good job of showing real life), the HID's produce only a very tiny amount more glare than stock. Hardly noticeable, and IMHO easily mistakable for OEM HID lights on SUV's.
 

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@Hiroshima:

Thank you for posting up this review, and the pictures to boot!

They certainly show the difference between stock an HID.

I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying the XenonDepot HID kit.

Steve
 

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I bought the same kit for my low beams and fogs per the recommendation of the OP. I can confirm similar results and love the upgrade as it gives a luxury villas feel in my 2016 Touring. Next I need to swap my DRL/Hi's but can't find an easy way to reach those bulbs. Does anyone have advice or a walk thru?

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HIDs will be useless as highs as they take too long to get warmed up to make any use. Also, HIDs won't work as DRLs too. BTW, getting to the bulbs in the highbeams are a @#$%&! pain in the behind!
 

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We've had a couple forum members try out LED's in various guises on the Odyssey with poor results, even in an OEM projector. They don't work unless built from the ground up with a perfectly matched projector (like a very expensive OEM setup).

Stick with halogen for you high beams by modifying a 9011 bulb base to fit. Very noticeable increase in lumens, and the filament is in the same position as the 9005.

OF
 

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@dgpatel180 - The 9005 LED headlight bulbs are a nice option, and will provide significantly more light. However, does your vehicle use the high-beam bulb as a DRL (daytime running light)?
Steve
 

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@dgpatel180 - The 9005 LED headlight bulbs are a nice option, and will provide significantly more light. However, does your vehicle use the high-beam bulb as a DRL (daytime running light)?
Steve
Yes it does. I presumed this 9005 bulb works for DRL as well as high beam.

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XD sells high quality stuff, but those LEDs will not work as DRLs AND highbeams. The light scatter is very pronounced and practically useless when used as highbeams. When used as DRLs they will be on full brightness. It's OK on a sunny day, but on an overcast day, it may be overkill.
 
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