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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First of all, I'm sorry to bring this topic again as this has been beaten to death several times. I went through several posts before I finalized my list. Some of the posts were couple of years old so I just wanted to confirm if anybody had any issue with the below combination or any alternative suggestion?

This is my first break job so forgive my ignorance.

TIA!

Front
PadsAkebono ACT1089A
RotorsCENTRIC 32040092F
Rear
PadsAkebono ACT1281
RotorsCentric 32040072F

Edit:

Which would would you guys prefer? Centric 320 series or 120 series?

Front: CENTRIC 12040092 or CENTRIC 32040092F
Rear: CENTRIC 12040072 or Centric 32040072F
 

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good stuff...

be sure to clean up and grease those slider pins, make sure the boots are not torn or split from heat.
failure to do so could cause premature or uneven pad wear on the new pads.
The rear pins are notorious for seizing.
replaced mine last brake job, along with the boots.
carlson sells a decent kit with slider pins and boots on rockauto if needed.
use the permatex ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant, or equivalent.

when reinstalling don't wrench too hard on your caliper bolts or they will snap.
I use a small handle ratchet handle for this, do snug then a 1/4 turn.
if in the rust belt use a dab of anti seize on your bolts, so they will come off easy for the next job.

rockauto 5% discount code if you're interested in buying from there.

good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
good stuff...

be sure to clean up and grease those slider pins, make sure the boots are not torn or split from heat.
failure to do so could cause premature or uneven pad wear on the new pads.
The rear pins are notorious for seizing.
replaced mine last brake job, along with the boots.
carlson sells a decent kit with slider pins and boots on rockauto if needed.
use the permatex ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant, or equivalent.

when reinstalling don't wrench too hard on your caliper bolts or they will snap.
I use a small handle ratchet handle for this, do snug then a 1/4 turn.
if in the rust belt use a dab of anti seize on your bolts, so they will come off easy for the next job.

rockauto 5% discount code if you're interested in buying from there.

good luck!
Thanks for the detailed response. I appreciate it.
 

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Double check those rotor part numbers. I just purchased Centric fronts and the part number was 120.40092.

Not sure if 320 was the old prefix, but 120 shows on their website now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Double check those rotor part numbers. I just purchased Centric fronts and the part number was 120.40092.

Not sure if 320 was the old prefix, but 120 shows on their website now.
I believe 320 has GCX Elemental Protection with extra coating, and 120 is listed under daily driver. ironically, 120 is pricier than the coated 320. not sure why. Do you know if 120 is better than 320?
 

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A 5 year old rotor is still new. You only change them when you are getting pulsating sensation (warped rotors) when you step on the brakes. Otherwise, it does not need replacement every time you change your brake pads. If you are planning on keeping the car for a while, why not take advantage of autozone brake pads lifetime warranty. Get their ceramic pads (about $50 per axle) and just keep replacing it for FREE whenever you get down around 30%. Save you a few bucks over the years if your are diy it. They perform as good as oem.
 

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Otherwise, it does not need replacement every time you change your brake pads.
You don't know that unless you put some calipers on them. They do wear down, and there is a min thickness spec. That, along with the grooves from previous pads mean it is often easier and longer-lasting to just replace the rotors with the pads on most modern vehicles.

-Charlie
 

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You don't know that unless you put some calipers on them. They do wear down, and there is a min thickness spec. That, along with the grooves from previous pads mean it is often easier and longer-lasting to just replace the rotors with the pads on most modern vehicles.

-Charlie
Yes, measure your rotor thickness if you are able. Why change it If there is nothing wrong with it? I don't know what you mean by longer lasting? But this is the disposable wasteful attitude I am trying to address. There is this idea of younger folks that think you need to change rotors and pads at the same time always. That is so wasteful and unnecessary. Rotors does now wear down as fast as the softer brake pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, measure your rotor thickness if you are able. Why change it If there is nothing wrong with it? I don't know what you mean by longer lasting? But this is the disposable wasteful attitude I am trying to address. There is this idea of younger folks that think you need to change rotors and pads at the same time always. That is so wasteful and unnecessary. Rotors does now wear down as fast as the softer brake pads.
Sorry, I didn't give a background. I bought this car used and the rotors was resurfaced by the dealer and put in new pads, now I again have steering wheel pulsating when ever I break so I intend to change both break pads and rotors.
 

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Rotors does now wear down as fast as the softer brake pads.
They have on every vehicle I have owned and repaired for the last 20 years... Yes, checked with calipers. I'm not a dumb, wasteful spring chicken here.

A well designed braking system will wear the pads and rotors at near an even rate. I'm not going to put a new set of pads on set of rotors that are 3/4 worn with grooves that can't be taken out by turning. Long gone are the days of 2-4 sets of pads per set of rotors. (specialty setups, like race pads or similar excepted)

Longer lasting means that I don't have to do my brakes twice as often with worse results (pads, then rotors, then pads, ad infinitum). Especially on the van that my wife, nanny and I drive our 3 kids around in...

-Charlie
 

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I just had my mechanic put the Akebono ACT pads and Centric 120-series rotors on the front of my 2007 Odyssey today. I've only driven it home from the mechanic's shop so far but the braking seems to have improved noticeably. This combo is highly recommended on here so I'm hoping that they will last and perform well.
 
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A 5 year old rotor is still new. You only change them when you are getting pulsating sensation (warped rotors) when you step on the brakes. Otherwise, it does not need replacement every time you change your brake pads
This may contain a grain of truth for those in the desert Southwest.

In the rust belt, it's false economy to try to get a second set of pads normal life out of rotors. If selling within a year, maybe worth trying. But for reliable brake performance, drop the ~70 per pair for new rotors.
 

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I believe 320 has GCX Elemental Protection with extra coating, and 120 is listed under daily driver. ironically, 120 is pricier than the coated 320. not sure why. Do you know if 120 is better than 320?
Nice! My mistake. I'd get the GCX coated rotors if they are cheaper. Centric's regular coating on the premium rotor is OK, but invariably they've always had rust in a few areas on the cars I've used them on. Never used the GCXs but I'm sure they are the same quality.
 

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If you're getting pulsing you should pull, clean, and re-lube all caliper slider pins.

I'll bet one is sticking.
 

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The 1st brake job is an awesome experience. When done you will realize how simple it was and feel greatly empowered saving lots of money. With the money saved you can buy free tools! Fyi I installed the Centric Premium rotors on the front with very good results - they are nothing fancy, just some rust preventative coating on the center outer face.

One tip - make sure to lightly lubricate the non-exposed side of the ‘brake retainer’ clips. If the existing clips are rusted, replace them as they are cheap and important.
- DanaH
2014 Ody LX
 

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Sorry, I didn't give a background. I bought this car used and the rotors was resurfaced by the dealer and put in new pads, now I again have steering wheel pulsating when ever I break so I intend to change both break pads and rotors.
Highly recommend staying away from honda oem rotors.
 

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And you will want to break in the new pads once installed. Look up brake pad burnishing (break in) procedure and follow.

It's very easy and it works.
 

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...why not take advantage of autozone brake pads lifetime warranty. Get their ceramic pads (about $50 per axle) and just keep replacing it for FREE whenever you get down around 30%. Save you a few bucks over the years if your are diy it. They perform as good as oem.
I do this for all my cars, and it is legit a good deal. I've replaced many sets for free, all with zero questions.
 

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I have Centric's and Akebono Ceramic's on our '16 EXL and my '07 Toyota Avalon both. Not sure how many miles are on either set at this point but 20-30k or so. Easy DIY, haven't had an issue on either vehicle, any season, super high heat/humidity down to freezing cold.

The rear rotors/pads on the Odyssey are longer lasting, I didn't really "need" to replace the setup on there but chose too for my own piece of mind.

Good luck!
 
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